This weekend in the south of France, the prestigious Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories celebrated its 40th anniversary by highlighting global talent. In fashion, family connections influenced collections featuring military themes, gender fluidity, and intricate handcraftsmanship. All ten finalists presented pieces that could easily be sold in stores today.
On Saturday, Swiss-Chilean designer Lucas Emilio Brunner won the Fashion Jury’s Grand Prize for his collection “A Bout de Souffle” (Breathless), inspired by balloons. Having previously worked at Martin Margiela’s studio, Brunner showcased a red, white, and blue piece woven from magician’s balloons in his hotel room the night before his presentation. His playful designs included a gold clutch shaped like a number 3, resembling a foil party balloon—a collaboration with Chanel-owned Desrues—and socks with balloon knots at the ankles.
Other winners included French designer Adrien Michel, who received the 19M Métiers d’Art Prize for integrating technical sportswear into women’s fashion, and Polish-Palestinian designer Layla Al Tawaya, awarded the Ateliers des Matières prize for exploring hyper-masculinity and femininity using laser-cut leather, tulle, lace, and silver-edged ribbon tweed.
The Public Prize went to Paris-based Lebanese designer Youssef Zogheib for his couture-inspired menswear, drawing from Royal Air Force photographer John Topham’s WWII work.
Swiss designer Noah Almonte, who works at Loewe, won the inaugural Supima Prize for his cartoon-chic collection influenced by the Apple Vision Pro and digital life. The prize includes a trip to New York and fabric sourcing support.
Despite its success, the festival is not untouched by broader changes. A significant shift occurred with the announcement that founder Jean-Pierre Blanc would step down, creating uncertainty. The event proceeded as planned, though scaled back, with a reflective tone suited to current times. Tributes to Blanc’s legacy were given by Pascale Mussard, Jean-Pierre Giran, and Pascal Morand, emphasizing that the festival must continue.
As one organizer noted, “In a historic year of creative change, a new generation is emerging with fresh ways of communication.””The message is one of continuity,” Mussard told Vogue. “Bringing this fashion jury together in one place would be impossible in Paris. It’s never been easier to connect through direct messages, but nothing beats meeting in person, and that’s what Jean-Pierre created in Hyères. It’s extraordinary to witness what unfolds at the Villa Noailles.”
Taking over from Blanc is Hugo Lucchino, the newly appointed managing director of the Villa Noailles and a former member of the Palais Galliera. Although he’s still settling in after moving from Paris just days ago, Lucchino has hit the ground running with ambitious plans for the future.
At a roundtable before the prize ceremony, Lucchino outlined that programming would focus on establishing a solid economic model, expanding to include artist residencies, advancing a future creative hub in Toulon, increasing transparency, and, most importantly, returning the Villa to financial stability.
“Our 40th anniversary is the perfect time to reflect on our journey and redefine ourselves as an art center with international reach,” he said. “What impresses me about the festival is its ability to adapt while reflecting creative energy.” He added that evolving the festival might involve incorporating new disciplines in fashion or culture. “We’ll embody the welcoming and multidisciplinary spirit of Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles. By returning to our roots, we can shine as brightly as ever.”
This new chapter could be transformative. For years, Hyères was known as much for its four-day Riviera party, starting at the Villa Noailles and continuing into the night at private villas and venues like a now-closed public bathhouse or a disused airport, as for its fashion.
Recently, with support from sponsors like Chanel, 19M, Hermès, and Première Vision, the program became more structured. This year marked a significant shift, with events condensed to three days, a single fashion show, a streamlined list of partners, and fewer off-site events along the coast.
The fashion jury, for the first time, consisted entirely of designers, including Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Julien Dossena—who won the Special Jury and 1-2-3 prizes as a student in 2006 and returned as jury president a decade later—Alexandre Mattiussi, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren (who won three prizes here in 1993), Christelle Kocher, Pelagia Kolotouros, and Louis Gabriel Nouchi (winner of the Galeries Lafayette prize in 2014).
“We’re all co-presidents,” said de Castelbajac, who designed this year’s motif, a multicolored sun featured on flags, totes, and Supima t-shirts. “I’m a product of mentorship,” he added, mentioning friends and mentors like Warhol, Basquiat, and Mapplethorpe. The designer, who is preparing a major retrospective at the Frac museum of contemporary art in Toulouse in December, noted, “It’s important to be here for the new generation, who must work with history, but fashion is always a blend of heritage and modernity, experience and innovation.”
For Mattiussi, this was his first visit to the Villa Noailles. “I’d always heard about it from friends who came back exhausted after four days,” he said. “This year, I felt I had the experience and maturity to help and share with the next generation.”
Comparing fashion’s current popularity to PSG soccer or Hollywood, Dossena added, “I’m not sure if, today, I would have had the courage to break into fashion. As a student, Hyères was foundational for me, so it was important to give back and help open up new possibilities for them.” Horsting and Snoeren, who…They remembered cutting patterns as large as the floor of their first Paris apartment and reflected on how their desire to be part of the fashion world became clear when they arrived in Hyères. “It was a one-time experiment because we wanted to collaborate; we had no plans to start a label back then—we didn’t even have a name and felt very insignificant—but we knew we wanted to be designers,” Horsting recalled. “We aimed to translate our emotions into clothing, and Hyères gave us the confidence to begin.” Snoeren added, “Hyères brought us closer to our dream.”
The fashion, accessories, and photography displays from the 2025 Hyères International Festival will be on view at the Villa Noailles until January 11, 2026.
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of helpful and clear FAQs about the Hyres International Festival turning 40
General Beginner Questions
1 What is the Hyres International Festival
Its a prestigious longrunning international competition and festival held in Hyres France dedicated to discovering and promoting emerging talents in fashion photography and fashion accessories
2 What does Embracing a New Beginning mean for the 40th edition
It signifies a fresh start and a renewed vision for the festivals future While celebrating its 40year legacy its also looking forward with new energy perhaps new formats and a continued commitment to innovation
3 Where and when does the festival take place
The festival is held annually in the town of Hyres France typically in the spring around April or May
4 Who can participate in the festival
The competitions are primarily for emerging artists designers and photographers who have not yet achieved widespread commercial recognition Each category has its own specific entry requirements
5 Is the festival open to the public
Yes While the main competitions are for selected participants many of the events exhibitions and fashion shows are open for the public to attend and experience
Advanced Detailed Questions
6 Why is the 40th anniversary such a significant milestone
Reaching 40 years is a major achievement in the volatile world of fashion and arts festivals It cements the festivals reputation as an enduring and essential platform for launching careers proving its lasting impact and relevance
7 What are the main awards given out at the festival
The festival awards several prestigious prizes including the Grand Prix for fashion photography and accessories These often come with a cash prize a production grant and mentorship opportunities to help the winners develop their work
8 How has the festival evolved over its 40year history
It has grown from a primarily fashionfocused event to a multidisciplinary one that now includes photography and accessories It has also become more international in scope and has adapted to digital and sustainable trends in the creative industries
9 What is the role of the jury and who typically serves on it
The jury is composed of influential figures from the fashion photography and design worldssuch as renowned designers editors curators and past winners They are responsible for selecting the competition finalists and awarding the