Rei Kawakubo first imagined it as “high fashion in a store that feels like a street market.” On September 10, 2004, the Comme des Garçons founder and her husband, Adrian Joffe, opened the first Dover Street Market (DSM) in London. Twenty-one years later, DSM has grown into a global presence, with locations in Tokyo, Paris, New York, Los Angeles, Singapore, and Beijing—each one carrying the same spirit of “beautiful chaos” that defined its origins.
Tonight, that chaos will be briefly celebrated on stage at The Fashion Awards in London, presented by Pandora. Kawakubo, Joffe, and Dickon Bowden—who joined as manager of the first store in 2004 and is now vice president of the global company—will together receive the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator. At a time when much of multi-brand retail has been shrinking, DSM has thrived by consistently going against the grain of industry norms.
Ahead of the event, Vogue Business spoke with four key figures behind DSM to explore the philosophy, process, and discipline behind global retail’s most unconventional player. While Kawakubo was not part of the conversation, it included Adrian Joffe, Dickon Bowden, Yo Arakida (general manager of Dover Street Market Japan), and Remo Hallauer (COO of Comme des Garçons International). The email discussion has been edited for clarity.
Vogue: Tonight’s Isabella Blow Award honors the creative forces shaping fashion’s cultural landscape. What does this award say about what DSM represents today?
Adrian: It reflects what we hope DSM has always been: a creative force among many that believes in creation as a means of progress.
Dickon: It shows that DSM has played an important role over the past two decades in providing a platform for designers, artists, and creatives in London and around the world—a platform that goes beyond convention, where the value of creation is front and center.
Vogue: In 2024, Adrian told Vogue Business: “Bricks and mortar has always been crucial to us. Rei has always said that. For her, online is the anathema. When she designs, she imagines that end point—when the customer comes into the store, feels the fabric, tries on the clothes. This is part of the beginning of her creative process.” How does that belief continue to guide DSM today, especially as so much of retail is contracting?
Adrian: I think the in-person experience is more important than ever. It’s obvious that sitting at home and buying something prompted by an algorithm isn’t as rewarding as bumping into an old friend or discovering something unexpected at DSM or any other store.
Dickon: This belief is at the heart of everything we do. We are first and foremost a physical business, and everything supports the interaction between our clients and our teams in the stores—the seeing, feeling, connecting, and experiencing of Dover Street Market as a whole.
Remo: Today’s times are both challenging and interesting. On one hand, technology, new media, and AI are rapidly changing the world and simplifying tasks. On the other, more people are returning to physical media like print, vinyl, and CDs—sales are growing against the odds as consumers seek out pre-AI music for its authenticity. I find this tension fascinating and see it as an analogy to what’s happening in retail, which gives me hope.
Yo:In Japan’s market, there are still many physical stores, including small, curated shops opened recently by the younger generation. I always think online business is just an extension of physical stores, and I believe nothing surpasses the interiors, scents, and sense of anticipation customers experience each time they visit DSM stores.
Vogue: DSM is often described as operating in a fundamentally different way from conventional retail. What is most important and useful about doing things differently rather than following established retail logic?
Adrian: It’s not about being different for its own sake. It’s more about recognizing that invention, creation, discovery, and wisdom cannot emerge from the status quo, let alone established retail logic. Only through curiosity, exploration, and letting go of preconceptions can progress happen. Nothing truly revolutionary or mind-blowing ever came from following established norms.
Dickon: We often talk about balancing creativity and commerciality, and the value of not being bound by convention or orthodox thinking. While we are a business, one thing I’ve learned over 21 years with Dover Street, thanks to Kawakubo-san and her approach, is the importance of creation: something deeper than pure commerce, something with spirit, authenticity, and soul.
Remo: I suppose we’ve created our own rules and logic. While our seasonal changeover—when we close for a few days to install the new season’s merchandise, called tachiagari—doesn’t follow conventional logic, it has become an incredibly useful way to generate excitement around our collections at the start of each season. It’s important to keep questioning what we do and not become comfortable with the status quo.
Yo: Surrounding the Comme des Garçons brands, which are our heart, we always create unexpected zoning on each floor and in each DSM shop. I think the most important thing is to feel a pleasant discomfort.
Vogue: DSM is shaped by multiple voices rather than a single author. How do each of you understand your own role within this collaborative structure, and what makes that shared approach function effectively instead of becoming chaotic?
Adrian: We just wing it, really, and go with the chaos.
Dickon: It’s about giving space and freedom to the people we work with, and having trust and belief in what they do. Sometimes it’s harmonious and serendipitous; other times, there’s collision and chaos. All of that is okay as far as we’re concerned—DSM is ultimately about ‘beautiful chaos.’
Remo: One beautiful thing about our company is our very loyal staff. All of us here have worked together for many years, and I feel our way of working has evolved quite organically. We have complementary skill sets and rely on each other’s strengths and weaknesses. That said, when chaos reigns, Kawakubo-san and Adrian make the final decisions.
Yo: Under the big umbrella of Comme des Garçons, I’ve been learning a lot every day at both CDG and DSM. We strive to bring things as close as possible to the company’s vision. For example, even proposals from other brands are adapted to align with our sensibilities, adding our own spices.
Vogue: Kawakubo’s conceptual language sits at the heart of DSM, yet each store has its own character and rhythm. How do you translate and interpret her ideas within the context of your own location?
Adrian: We’ve always tried to find a balance between centralization and decentralization, instilling a strong sense of our shared identity and values in each place while encouraging local character and individual leadership.
Dickon: It takes a little time for each DSM to establish its roots and connect with the local community. London was, of course, the first store.The store we opened in 2004, and the journey of working with Kawakubo-san and Adrian on its transformation after opening, was something very special and humbling. What mattered most to Kawakubo was creating something special and new—a feeling shared by everyone involved, including Alber Elbaz, Azzedine Alaïa, Carla Sozzani, Raf Simons, Hedi Slimane, Ronnie Newhouse, and Judy Blame. There was a powerful, intoxicating sense of flow and like-mindedness. Capital and operating costs weren’t the starting point of the conversation, as they often are today. Creation came first, driven by a sense of daring and freedom in following Kawakubo’s vision.
Remo: Paris is quite different from other DSM locations because all the furniture was designed by Kawakubo, and there are no spaces by other brands—similar to a Comme des Garçons store. She also designs and approves all installations in the courtyard, which play an important role in how the store is perceived.
Yo: We have both Kawakubo and Adrian in the company, along with a lot of knowledge from DSM London’s experiences. I interpret their advice and guidelines and keep working steadily. Translating their ideas is always challenging, but there are many ways to reach the goal, and I’m still discovering new things.
Louis Vuitton and Yayoi Kusama took over the first floor of DSM Ginza in January 2023.
Vogue: DSM continues to support emerging designers even as the wider multi-brand ecosystem has contracted. What guides your thinking when deciding which designers or creators to champion or partner with?
Adrian: It’s quite random—there are no overriding rules or formulas. We leave a lot to chance and instinct. These things can’t be preordained, and there’s no guarantee of success. There are often impossible decisions to make and risks to take. We look for hard work, a strong vision, and a good story.
Remo: We invest in brands and people with an interesting point of view that aligns with our values.
Yo: At our global meetings in Paris, we decide which brands to carry and which to pause. We consider whether a brand shares our values or takes a completely different approach. Some brands are exclusive to Japan, while others are launched in Japan before expanding elsewhere.
Dickon: Ultimately, they need to have something interesting or different to say.
Vogue: DSM stores often evolve into cultural hubs as much as retail spaces. How does your location engage with its local creative community, and how does this shape DSM as a whole?
Adrian: Through engagement, openness, inclusiveness, curiosity, checking in, and staying awake.
Remo: In Paris, we have an event space, the courtyard, and the store, so the cultural aspect plays an important role. Every DSM supports its local community, but it’s also nice to see these communities cross over from one country or continent to another for events and collaborations.
Dickon: We’re constantly seeking opportunities to bring people together. There’s no formality to this process—it happens every day in our work. And of course, we share and work together across the world. We’re at our best when we come together while celebrating our differences.
Dover Street Market London reveals a window installation designed by Rei Kawakubo, featuring Cindy Sherman’s photography.
Vogue: DSM’s physical spaces are part of its creative proposition. How do you approach retail space as a creative medium?
Remo: The building is the most important starting point—it might sound corny, but I believe buildings have a soul. If you find the right space and create an interesting proposition from an architectural point of view, you can create something truly unique.Vogue: Are you doing something special to attract customers?
Yo: We’re not trying to use the retail space in a particularly creative way. We’re just building a store based on our own principles.
Dickon: It’s about giving freedom to the people we work with, letting them express themselves in a fresh, uninhibited way, free from conventional norms.
Vogue: Beyond their spending, do customers influence your decisions at DSM? What do they teach you, and how do you apply it?
Adrian: Listening and sharing are crucial to our development. We don’t believe in one-way communication. That’s the key to a thriving community.
Dickon: Absolutely. We’re always listening to and talking with our clients. We stay open-minded and ready to learn.
Remo: Customers play a huge role at DSM—it’s vital to never underestimate them. We can learn from them just as much as they learn from us. I’m often amazed by how much people know about Comme des Garçons and our other designers. Authentic conversations are key. They help us get to know our clients and help them get to know our company, our staff, and what we offer, all with the goal of building long-term relationships.
Yo: Of course, there are intangible effects, but the results show in the numbers. Sometimes, if we focus too much on artistic expression, it might not connect directly with customers. Other times, an artistic approach can perfectly convey our message. The outcome in the numbers is different each time, and customer reactions vary too.
Vogue: DSM’s environments are always changing. What does the process of refreshing or reimagining the space involve from your perspective?
Remo: Staying curious and never standing still.
Yo: There’s no single correct or appropriate answer to this. We always need to be unexpected.
Vogue: Without looking back nostalgically, what is one action, decision, or moment from DSM’s history that best illustrates its uniqueness? Why does it feel relevant now?
Adrian: There are too many moments of despair and joy to mention. They’re all just steps in our growth, fragments of a larger whole.
Remo: Every store opening or major milestone involves staff from around the world coming together, working hand-in-hand to get things done on time. This mutual support is incredible to experience, and we strive to keep our values strong as the company grows.
Dickon: People often ask, and the simple answer is that DSM is at its best and most magical when we all come together. There have been many store openings where global teams join forces in the days before to ‘make shop,’ and then stand together at the end of the first day to celebrate creating our beautiful store. We also have our biannual seasonal changeovers, where we close for a few days and reopen with new spaces and collections. This is a very important tradition for DSM and CDG, and every team member helps.
Perhaps the most poignant and moving time was during the peak of Covid, when the store was completely closed. Even though no client would see it in person, we chose to carry on regardless. We transformed the entire store over a few days as if we were open. We believed in the value and importance of this tradition, which transcends circumstances and is rooted in our values. The entire company joined remotely as a few of us gave a virtual tour of the store. I often say DSM is the sum of all of us, and that was certainly true that day.
Vogue: How do you see DSM evolving as fashion, culture, and retail continue to change? Which aspects of DSM’s identity are essential, and which areas feel open for evolution?To radical change?
Adrian: We must always be open to changing and questioning everything, knowing that everything is constantly changing anyway, regardless of our wishes. We might as well try to stay ahead and help shape how that change unfolds.
Remo: It feels like the worlds of fashion, art, and music are more connected than ever. I’m excited about collaborating more closely with peers from other fields to create authentic products and events. This will help us reach new audiences while still resonating with our current one.
Yo: I believe it’s crucial to be truly free, guided by a strong, independent will.
Dickon: It’s about embracing the challenge and celebrating change, while staying true to the enduring spirit and values of Comme des Garçons and Rei Kawakubo. They are both our foundation and our compass for the future.
Vogue: What questions or challenges are on your mind as you look toward DSM’s next phase?
Dickon: How to improve. How to challenge ourselves and our partners in a positive way, especially given the current stagnation in the industry.
Adrian: Self-renewal is difficult. The goal is to keep doing what we do, but to keep doing it better.
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of FAQs about Go With the Chaos inspired by the philosophy of Dover Street Markets creators
Beginner Core Concept Questions
1 What does Go With the Chaos actually mean
Its a retail philosophy that embraces unpredictability spontaneity and the constant mixing of ideas people and products rather than trying to control every detail of the shopping experience
2 Who created this concept
It was pioneered by Rei Kawakubo founder of Comme des Garons and her husband Adrian Joffe the President of Dover Street Market Its the guiding principle behind their revolutionary stores
3 What is Dover Street Market
DSM is a multibrand fashion retailer known for its curated everchanging beautiful chaos It treats the store like an ongoing art installation or a vibrant market featuring a mix of established luxury brands and emerging designers
4 Whats the main goal of this approach
To create a sense of discovery excitement and community It aims to surprise customers and make shopping an inspiring cultural experience not just a transaction
Benefits Why It Works
5 What are the benefits for customers
Customers get a unique memorable experience every visit They discover new brands and unexpected product pairings feeling more like an explorer than just a shopper
6 What are the benefits for the brands and designers featured
Brands are presented as art within a curated context which elevates their perception Emerging designers gain incredible exposure by being placed next to iconic names and all brands benefit from the stores cultural credibility
7 How does this build a community
By hosting events exhibitions and café spaces DSM becomes a destination for creative people to gather making the store a cultural hub not just a retail space
Common Problems Challenges
8 Isnt chaos bad for business Doesnt it confuse customers
The chaos is carefully curatedits organized chaos The confusion is intentional but designed to be delightful leading to exploration It targets customers who value discovery over convenience
9 Is this approach only for highfashion or luxury
While born in highfashion the core idea can be adapted by