By the time New York designer Kingsley Gbadegesin launched his brand K.ngsley—celebrating its fifth anniversary this summer—he’d learned two key lessons. First: always listen to your mother. Second: never underestimate the power of the perfect club outfit.

Back in 2019, Gbadegesin—who had worked in operations for brands like Celine and Loewe before starting K.ngsley—was at the gym, feeling a sudden wave of restlessness. On the phone with his mom, he shared his mood. “She gave me advice she’d never given before, and I still remember it,” he recalled. “‘Kingsley,’ she said, ‘you need to go out tonight.'”

Later that day, a friend who was hosting a party called FIST (“Fun Is Still Transgressive”) insisted he come. With only 15 minutes to get ready, Gbadegesin grabbed a fresh Hanes white tank and a pair of scissors. A few quick cuts later, he had a fitted, body-hugging look. He posted a photo of just his torso on Instagram and woke up to more likes than ever before. “I was so annoyed,” he laughed, “because my face wasn’t even in the picture!”

Looking back, this moment taught him a third lesson (one every aspiring designer should note): a single standout piece can take your brand far. The tank he designed in 2020, inspired by that DIY creation, was perfect for the moment—Instagram-friendly, gender-inclusive, body-positive, and effortlessly cool. Priced at $180, it was also accessible. Most importantly, it felt true to Gbadegesin and his world.

That tank remains a bestseller, and since its launch, his customer base has shifted from 90% men to about 75% women. “I’ve always designed for the girls,” he said. “To me, ‘the girls’ means cis women, trans women, gay men… There’s an innate feminine energy in what I do, and I want it to feel like a safe space for them.”

From that one piece, he built full collections—released twice a year—rooted in everyday staples like shirts, denim, and polos, but elevated with clever cuts, panels, and contrasts. Each design celebrates individuality, body positivity, and self-expression, now expanded into accessories like boots, sunglasses, and jewelry.

I first saw Gbadegesin’s work at a Brooklyn runway show in 2022. The clothes—athletic yet sensual—had the urban edge of Helmut Lang (a comparison I don’t make lightly). It was clear: K.ngsley was something special.

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“My work is as much about identity as it is about how it makes people feel,” Gbadegesin explained when discussing why his label resonates with people. “It’s about making identity more than just an internal reflection—making it tangible. Clothes give me a certain feeling—it’s deeply emotional. I can express everything about myself without speaking. To me, clothing has always been like armor, a confidence boost for facing the world. That’s what I hope to bring to others through my work.”

I first saw Gbadegesin’s designs at a Brooklyn runway show during a humid summer evening in 2022. His sporty yet sensual clothing reminded me of Helmut Lang’s urban edge—a comparison I don’t make lightly as a huge Lang fan. His talent became even clearer at an off-season show in Bushwick last fall. The collection featured wide-cut poplin shirts paired with androgynous jeans, boxer briefs transformed into shorts, draped-back shirtdresses, and sleek bias-cut dresses. The audience, many wearing his designs, looked as stylish as the models—a clear sign of his growing connection with fans.

Gbadegesin always understood the importance of community—both his own and the wider world that would embrace his clothes because they reflected their identity. His friend Conley Averett of Judy Turner encouraged him when he first considered launching his label in 2020: “Kingsley—if not now, when?” Averett then connected him with an LA factory to produce his tank top designs.

Amanda Murray, a fashionable British consultant based in New York, became another key supporter. When she wore one of his tanks, it brought over 1,500 new friend requests—many eager to buy his clothes. As his label grew, designer friends helped after hours to build a brand true to their shared vision. “When four or five gay men come together, we’re unstoppable,” Gbadegesin joked.

His former LVMH colleague Nesli Danisman supported him through daily calls during the first six months, especially after Lil Nas X and Issa Rae wore his tanks to great acclaim. He faced challenges too—like forgetting to mark items as sold out during a surge of orders. Another setback came when a photographer vanished after a shoot. “I panicked,” he admits, “but then I used a behind-the-scenes photo with our logo and wrote ‘Coming Soon’—and that’s how K.ngsley was born.”

The label emerged during two defining moments: the pandemic (which unexpectedly opened his mind to new possibilities despite its challenges)… [text continues]The Black Lives Matter movement and other social justice efforts sparked important conversations—especially in fashion. “BLM boosted our wholesale business, but we never leveraged it directly,” Gbadegesin said. “Our early imagery was sensual and free-spirited, which gave us visibility we might not have gotten otherwise. I’m grateful for the business we built—we sold out three times in three months with some retailers.” He laughed, “Once in-person meetings resumed, every vendor asked, ‘Who the hell is K.ngsley?’ because our sell-through was so strong.”

For any young, self-funded designer—Gbadegesin is 32—finances are everything. Having worked on both the creative and business sides, he understands opportunities and challenges. “This industry demands resources,” he said. “Our early success let us grow without outside investment, building K.ngsley from the ground up. Working with Phoebe Philo at Céline taught me about wardrobe-building with clients. I’ve learned to make fashion’s brutal cycle work for me—that’s why I structure collections as ‘acts,’ evolving our customers’ wardrobes over time.”

His tank tops sustained the business for two years while he defined K.ngsley’s identity. Recently, Trump-era tariffs forced financial adjustments. “This time has been brutal,” he admitted. “You have to stay nimble. Thankfully, our designs are seasonless. Tariffs are tough, but customer spending habits are shifting too. It’s tight, but I’m grateful to do this work with my team.”

That blend of optimism and realism—along with his standout designs—makes K.ngsley a vital part of New York fashion. “I love that our brand is youthful, bold, and smart,” he said, pointing to pieces like his PrEP-inspired jewelry. “Even in 2025, Black and brown communities face high infection rates. This jewelry says, ‘Be yourself, be free—but be safe.’”

Reflecting on the past five years, Gbadegesin said, “It’s been a journey. Every collection, launch, or moment in the spotlight is fleeting. If that’s all you chase, you’re in trouble. This isn’t easy or glamorous—you have to truly love it. I’m 32, but sometimes I feel 55!” Yet he added, “Fashion raised me. It taught me to show up for myself and grow.”

Highlights include dressing Beyoncé’s tour, styling Blackpink, seeing Lupita Nyong’o wear K.ngsley on Elle’s cover, and hitting $1 million in revenue. (“A number I never imagined,” he admitted.) But what shines brightest? “The friends who support me season after season—I could cry, I love them so much.”Looking ahead, there are plans for a fifth-anniversary show later this year—ideally during New York Fashion Week in September. Gbadegesin also hopes to step into a creative director role for a brand. And as a little birthday wish for this milestone, let’s send that last dream out into the universe.