Editor’s Note: To celebrate Vogue Runway’s 10th anniversary, our writers are paying tribute to the most unforgettable shows from spring 2016. Today’s focus: Vetements’ presentation in a Chinese restaurant.
That season, Vetements truly broke through. Everyone could feel it. Crammed together in a Chinese restaurant in Belleville, we witnessed the show that would launch Demna into the role of creative director at Balenciaga.
It’s rare to physically sense a generational shift in fashion, but the energy in the room was undeniable. The excitement came from the feeling that a rebellious group of outsiders was shaking up the Paris establishment—led by two brothers from Georgia, backed by their Russian-born friends like Gosha Rubchinskiy (who opened the show in that now-infamous DHL T-shirt) and their stylist Lotta Volkova, who closed it out in her signature cut-off denim skirt and thigh-high boots.
Hans Solo made a cameo via Linnea Rimberg.
That night, lying flat on my hotel bed, I wrote: “The buzz in that cheerful, no-frills venue, the strikingly beautiful and strong young models, and the incredible clothes they wore—it all felt like a landmark moment in fashion.” I still stand by that, though a decade later, newer generations might not grasp what had us so electrified. That’s because what felt radical then—street-style hoodies, oversized tailoring, borrowed logos, floral dresses—became so influential it soon felt normal. The true test of fashion’s impact is this: Did it become so widespread that everyone started dressing that way? It did.
Demna later brought that aesthetic to Balenciaga. The exaggerated slouch and attitude became one of the most ubiquitous youth styles of the decade, copied until it was everywhere.
Part of why I was so convinced of Vetements’ power that night was seeing how many editors and fans showed up wearing their pieces. Demna and his brother Guram Gvasalia had already built momentum with two underground shows and their original lookbook, created while Demna and others were still working day jobs at Paris fashion houses.
The collection was scarce and hard to find, but I’d managed to get my hands on a large black tailored blazer from a New York boutique (Look 29 from their fall 2015 show at Le Depot nightclub). I thought it was incredibly elegant—worth every penny. I wore it that night and remember spotting Sally Singer, then my editor at Vogue, in an ankle-length floral dress from the same collection. Others wore different color variations, a guy in a massive black leather biker jacket, and a young person squeezed into a corner wearing the slit-front “ANTWERPEN” souvenir T-shirt. And this was long before selfies were a thing!
Demna shared backstage in the kitchen that the collection held personal meaning for everyone involved. The rose-printed plastic tablecloths repurposed into aprons and dresses were, for example, an homage to his grandmother.
So the atmosphere that night had the thrill of an emerging cult gathering. I wrote about that feeling too. Vetements calling itself a “collective” added to its edgy mystique at a time when fashion had lost its edge. We were thrilled to see it return. And it was even better to discover that Demna, far from being a difficult ’90s-style underground designer, was warm and storytelling, pointing out how those floral prints honored his grandmother’s plastic tablecloths.Vetements, back in Georgia. You could call it a moment, I suppose—but it was a moment that lasted a decade, especially if you include Demna’s time at Balenciaga (which I do), which kicked into high gear right after in fall 2016. Guram Gvasalia has been the creative director of Vetements since 2020, when Demna left the brand.
Now Demna has also left Balenciaga and is preparing for his debut presentation at Gucci. Will his first show in Milan shake up the fashion world as dramatically as before? Let’s hope so. Fashion has slipped into another one of its dull, repetitive phases—just as I was complaining about in this 2015 review. We need someone to pull off a show like that again.
Vetements, spring 2016 ready-to-wear
Vetements, spring 2016 ready-to-wear
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Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of FAQs about Vetementss unforgettable Spring 2016 show
General Beginner Questions
Q What was so special about the Vetements Spring 2016 show
A It was held in a cramped workingclass Chinese restaurant in Paris which was a huge departure from the typical glamorous largescale fashion show It felt raw authentic and completely different
Q Why did they choose a Chinese restaurant
A The creative director Demna Gvasalia wanted to challenge the elitism of the fashion industry He aimed to create a show that felt more like a real underground party than a formal corporate event
Q Where exactly was the show held
A It was held at a restaurant called Le Président in Pariss Chinatown district
Q Was it a real functioning restaurant
A Yes The models walked between the tables where guests were seated The smell of food was in the air and the staff continued to work making the experience very immersive
Advanced Detailed Questions
Q How did the venue influence the clothing collection itself
A The collection celebrated normcore and antifashion It featured oversized silhouettes deconstructed tailoring and everyday items like DHL tshirts which mirrored the mundane everyday setting of the restaurant
Q What was the overall impact of this show on the fashion industry
A It is widely credited with cementing the trend of ugly chic and elevating streetwear to high fashion It challenged the necessity of extravagant sets and proved that a powerful concept could be more impactful than a big budget
Q Who were some of the notable models or guests
A The casting was iconic for using a diverse mix of reallooking people and famous models like Lineisy Montero Key industry figures and celebrities were crammed into the small space adding to the buzz
Q What were some practical challenges of hosting a show in such a small space
A The space was extremely tight Guests were seated very close together the runway was just the aisle between tables and the overall atmosphere was chaotic and hot which was all part of the intended experience
Q How did this show define the Vetements aesthetic
A It perfectly captured the brands core philosophy a rebellious