When Project Runway first aired, it became a global phenomenon. I know because I was one of those glued to the screen—watching every episode from my hometown of La Paz, Bolivia. I still remember my favorite contestants and the allure of the show’s grand prize: a magazine feature, a runway show at New York Fashion Week, and the chance to become the next big designer—the next Michael Kors, who was the show’s star judge at the time.

This was 2004, a different era. Back then, the inner workings of the fashion industry hadn’t yet been demystified by movies like The Devil Wears Prada (2006) or shows like Ugly Betty (2006). Sure, Tim Blanks and Elsa Klensch had their TV programs, and House of Style made Todd Oldham and Cindy Crawford household names. But what it really took to break into fashion? That only became clear with Project Runway.

Even now, my friends and I still refer to Nina Garcia—currently Elle’s editor-in-chief—by her old title, “fashion director of Elle magazine,” just as Heidi Klum introduced her every episode. Now that we work in fashion, we quote Klum’s famous line—”One day you’re in, the next day you’re out”—mimicking her sharp German accent. We remember Kors’s biting critiques. But as iconic as Project Runway is in pop culture and reality TV, its actual impact on fashion is harder to define.

The show inspired a generation of aspiring designers, not by making fashion look easy, but by showing just how tough it really is. Yet, 20 seasons and countless international versions later, only one true fashion star has emerged: Christian Siriano. Since winning Season 4 in 2007, Siriano has become a fixture at New York Fashion Week, dressed stars like Jennifer Lopez and Ariana Grande, and opened stores in Manhattan and Connecticut. Most other early-season contestants, unfortunately, faded into obscurity.

In fairness, that’s not entirely the show’s fault. Fashion is notoriously exclusive—it doesn’t roll out the red carpet for just anyone, even reality TV stars. Project Runway isn’t alone here. American Idol, after 23 seasons, has only produced a handful of major stars—Kelly Clarkson (its Christian Siriano, if you will) and Jennifer Hudson (who shockingly didn’t even win her season). The Voice? Still waiting for its first household name.

Now, Project Runway is back with Heidi Klum, who returned in 2023 after leaving in 2017. The show is trying to reclaim its crown as the top fashion competition series. (Klum’s post-Runway venture, Making the Cut on Amazon Prime, never quite took off, and Netflix’s Next in Fashion had mixed success.) This time, the show has a secret weapon: stylist Law Roach, now a main judge alongside Klum. After just two episodes, Roach—the mastermind behind Zendaya’s iconic looks—has taken over my TikTok feed. He’s stepped into the “bad cop” role once held by Kors, Zac Posen, and Brandon Maxwell, delivering razor-sharp critiques that make for great TV.

I binged the new season’s premiere episodes over the weekend. It’s as entertaining as ever, but the big question remains: Can it produce another true fashion star in today’s industry—where success means Fashion Week shows, celebrity clients, and magazine spreads? Roach might help by shining a spotlight on the show and lending credibility to the winner—if he chooses to champion them. Only time will tell.The show focuses on styling, and this season’s prize includes mentorship from the Council of Fashion Designers of America—but is that enough to create a star?

Years ago, when I worked as a designer, a casting director called me about appearing on an upcoming season. They asked about my fashion background—could I sew, draw, and sketch? Had I worked in the industry? Did I have formal training? But they also asked questions like: How do I handle conflict? Am I confrontational? Do I see myself as an extrovert?

As long as Project Runway prioritizes entertainment, fashion will always take a backseat. That doesn’t mean the designers lack talent or that their work should be overlooked—it just means, at its core, this is a TV show. Does it really matter if it launches the next big-name designer? People are still watching, so draw your own conclusions.