Green. Blue. Orange. Playful patterns layered together. A collage effect… Paul Smith’s gentle East Midlands accent floated over the upbeat world music soundtrack, creating a menswear tribute reminiscent of The Orb’s Little Fluffy Clouds. We sat on the same crates used by Milan’s mineral water delivery men, inside Smith’s showroom—a converted ball-bearing warehouse on Viale Umbria that he opened in 2003.

Though he’s had business ties here for years, this was Smith’s first Milan fashion show (despite what the Fashion Channel’s Fall 2004 caption claimed). He chose the city to showcase a collection inspired by a book of hand-tinted souvenir photos of Egyptian landmarks, which he bought at a Cairo street market about 25 years ago while vacationing with his wife, Pauline. “I picked it up before we sailed the Nile on a felucca,” he explained.

Rediscovered during a recent office cleanout, the book sparked several motifs in the collection. Metal shells, coins, and peace charms adorned roomy berets or replaced buttons—nodding to the idea of market finds gaining meaning over time. A vibrant fish-and-flower print, used on crepe shirts and knitwear, drew its colors from the book. “This might sound a bit silly,” Smith said of the textured cotton, “but it’s meant to mimic the water’s surface. We called it the River Print because it’s based on photos from that trip.”

Travel, memory, life stages—these universal themes ran through the collection (À la recherche du temps perdu and all that), but Smith, ever the lighthearted storyteller, kept it subtle. Playful details like “Paul Smith hotel” keychains on belt loops and faux-crocodile luggage tags on bags hinted at transience and adventure.

Flared shorts, flap-pocket shirts, and silky crepe smocks were paired with mid-calf socks and sleek racing sneakers (or soft loafers) in neutral tones with occasional pops of color. A knit twinset riffed on Smith’s signature stripes—less angular than Missoni, but unmistakably his.

Suiting fabrics included lightweight wool mohair and silk-blended linen, which Smith had tweaked for an unconventional feel. A standout piece was a brown suede jacket—luxurious, slightly rugged, like something from Withnail & I. As for the cheerful soundtrack? “It’s about mixing things in unexpected ways,” Smith said.