“Are you excited?” my driver asks as we get into the car. It took 32 hours and three flights to reach Entebbe, Uganda, followed by a night near the airport and a bush plane to Kihihi Airstrip. Despite the long journey, my exhaustion, and the bumpy hour-and-a-half ride ahead to Gorilla Forest Lodge—an A&K Sanctuary—I am truly excited. And if the hotel’s name didn’t make it obvious, it’s gorilla trekking I’m here for.
About halfway through the drive, it starts to rain. Water streams down the red dirt road, but I’m still struck by how lush the landscape is. Rolling hills are covered in every shade of green imaginable. When thunder rumbles in the distance, I hope the drizzle won’t spoil the next few days. But as soon as I arrive at the lodge, my worries start to fade.
With every step up the steep hill—a small taste of the trekking to come—I feel more alive. Halfway up, a playful “almost there” sign makes me smile, but it’s the L’Hoest’s monkey perched near the top, like a welcoming host, that really shakes off my jet lag. My excitement grows as I reach my room, especially when I step onto the wide deck with its hanging swing chairs overlooking the jungle—perfect for quiet reflection. A soft mist hangs over the treetops, adding a touch of mystery, and I wonder how many mountain gorillas are sheltering from the rain just like me.
A bit of background: There are 13 A&K Sanctuaries in Africa, formerly known as Sanctuary Retreats. Owned by Abercrombie & Kent, a luxury safari pioneer since 1962, the company expanded into lodges just before the 2000s with Olonana in Kenya’s Maasai Mara. They now also run boutique riverboats, including the new Pure Amazon in Peru, which launched last summer. Meanwhile, Gorilla Forest Lodge reopened in June after a full renovation. It’s the only luxury lodge inside Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, made possible by founder Geoffrey Kent’s dedication to wildlife conservation and his role in establishing Bwindi as a national park.
Gorilla Forest Lodge has just 10 suites, all recently expanded with canopied beds and large bathrooms featuring deep soaking tubs. The minibar is complimentary, stocked with cookies (I was warned to keep doors closed to avoid monkey visitors), and staff even bring a carafe of wine at turndown. Thoughtful touches include a yoga kit and mini weights in a canvas tote, plus a heating pad on the comfortable mattress. But it’s the local craftsmanship that stands out most—from ceilings woven with banana fiber and papyrus by the NGO Ride 4 a Woman, to throw pillows by Florence Nakachwa’s Mekeka Designs.
The main building is equally impressive. Redesigned to offer more cozy spaces, including three lounges separate from the dining area, it feels deeply connected to its surroundings. Woven shopping baskets are repurposed as lampshades, and barkcloth—once known as “the king’s cloth” in the Buganda Kingdom—hangs as art above the fireplace. Like the rooms, everything is made from natural materials like local wood, with each piece of furniture custom-made in Uganda. A small spa downstairs offers two treatment rooms, including one for couples, giving guests a perfect way to unwind after a day of trekking—if they don’t head straight to their plush room first.After a restful night, we were all eager to start the next day. We left by 7 a.m. for a briefing at the nearby park center, where we joined local groups and other excited tourists. There, we learned that an estimated 1,063 mountain gorillas live in the wild (according to a 2019 census), with nearly half of them in Uganda. We also heard that humans share about 98% of our DNA with mountain gorillas, which is why we would wear face masks during our visit to reduce the risk of spreading illness. Most importantly, we went over the rules: do not touch, do not feed, do not run, and always listen to your guide.
My group had mentioned to our Abercrombie & Kent driver that we hoped for a shorter hike if possible. It turns out such requests aren’t unreasonable. Every morning, trackers—many of them former poachers—head into Bwindi to locate the gorillas, so guides know which family to visit and where to start. Once assigned our park guide, Saidi, he assured us it would be a quick and easy walk, as long as the gorillas stayed put. After all, this is wildlife.
It took about an hour and a half to drive to our starting point, where we met a group of porters—available to help carry backpacks—and two armed rangers who would accompany us in case of any unexpected dangers. After a 30-minute walk past a tea plantation (planted both for income and as a natural barrier, since jungle animals don’t eat the leaves, keeping them away from villages) and down a steep hill in the lush jungle, we reached a grassy area filled with bushes. Just across the way was a silverback, a mature male, eating leaves.
A sense of awe immediately came over me. The silverback, named Ruyombo, was sturdy with short limbs. He was smaller than I had imagined, but still magnificent and intimidating. Though calm and seemingly peaceful, Saidi told me Ruyombo was about average size, meaning he still weighed around 400 pounds of pure muscle. But Ruyombo wasn’t alone; besides three blackbacks (mature males without silver hair) nearby, there was also a mother with her two-month-old son just behind the patriarch.
We watched as she cradled him in her arms. Whenever he tried to toddle toward us, she would gently pull him back by the leg. When he grew restless and tried to climb onto her head, she lifted him off and set him down. As someone with young nieces and nephews, I couldn’t help but laugh. If you’ve spent time around children, you understand how tiring it can be to keep up with their energy and mischief. In that way, it’s amazing how universal motherhood—or in my case, aunthood—feels.
Just as our hour was ending (each gorilla family receives one group of visitors per day for one hour), the mother turned her back to us, as if signaling it was time to leave. As I made my way through the low bushes, a blackback paused his snack and walked right past me. The whole experience felt like a dream. On our way back, as red-tailed monkeys leaped through the trees, Saidi asked if we were ready for another trek. Not that day, of course, but I was already eager for the next day’s adventure.
While gorilla trekking is the main attraction here, Gorilla Forest Lodge also offers other outdoor activities like birdwatching (with over 350 species) and waterfall hikes, along with cultural immersion experiences.My visit included planned interactions with the Batwa and Bakiga communities. I had hoped to join the latter, but as we neared the lodge, a downpour began, forcing a change of plans. Instead, I spoke with a hotel staff member to learn about Abercrombie & Kent’s charitable work. Beyond hiring locally, the company actively supports the community. In Bwindi, this includes expanding the local primary school, aiding 15 other schools, installing LifeStraw-filtered tanks for clean water, and offering scholarships and resources to the nearby nursing school.
The next morning, we set out on another trek, again guided by Saidi. Surprisingly, the hike was even shorter than the previous day’s, but this time we were deep in the wild jungle. We found the silverback, Kavuyo, being groomed by a female while six other gorillas fed on leaves in the treetops. One even swung down a vine—a true Tarzan moment. The completely different setting made it a unique experience, leaving me curious about what other treks might offer. But as this was our final day, we headed back to the lodge to relax by the fire pit, sharing stories of our adventures while a live harp played.
We left before dawn on our last day, and unexpected roadwork led us on a long, scenic detour. Driving past the same mountains we had seen on our way to the gorillas, we watched the sky turn from pastel pink to bright orange as we chased the sunrise. Gazing out the window one last time, I felt a rush of memories—the gorillas and the community that makes these experiences possible. All I could hope was that someday, I might be lucky enough to return.
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of FAQs about a redesigned lodge in Uganda as a base for gorilla trekking written in a natural conversational tone
General Booking
Q Where exactly is this lodge located
A Its located in the town of Kisoro in southwestern Uganda Its the closest major town to both Mgahinga Gorilla National Park and Bwindi Impenetrable National Park making it an ideal central hub
Q Is the lodge new or just renovated
A Its a complete redesign and renovation of a wellknown existing lodge It has been updated with modern comforts sustainable features and a fresh aesthetic while keeping its authentic welcoming character
Q What makes this lodge the perfect home base for gorilla trekking
A Its prime location means shorter less stressful travel to the park headquarters on trekking morning After a long day of hiking you can return to reliable hot showers comfortable beds and excellent food without a long bumpy drive
Q What types of rooms are available
A The redesign offers a range from cozy standard rooms to spacious suites and private cottages Many have stunning views of the surrounding Virunga volcanoes
Gorilla Trekking Logistics
Q Can the lodge help us get gorilla trekking permits
A Absolutely This is one of their key services They work with official tour operators to secure the highly soughtafter permits for you which must be booked well in advance
Q Were not expert hikers Is gorilla trekking from here still doable
A Yes The lodges team can advise you on which park and specific gorilla family might be best for your fitness level They also help prepare you with what to expect
Q What does a typical trekking day look like when staying here
A Youll have an early breakfast then take a short drive to the park briefing After the trek youll return to the lodge for lunch a hot shower and time to relax and share stories of your incredible experience
Q Besides gorillas what else can we do
A The lodge can arrange other activities like golden monkey trekking volcano hikes cultural visits to local Batwa communities bird watching and scenic nature walks around Lake Mutanda