In the summer of 2024, British-born, U.S.-based shoe designer Paul Andrew became creative director of Sergio Rossi. The Italian shoe brand was founded in 1951 by its namesake and became known for its sculptural, sexy designs, which grew even more popular with the minimalist yet sensual style of the 1990s. “I’ve known and loved its aesthetic my whole career,” Andrew says. “Rossi was a genius—he did so much for modern shoemaking that people don’t often talk about today: the lightness of the shoe, the arch support, the instep padding, the stitching… It’s all so refined.”
Andrew admits with a smile that he’s both a shoe enthusiast—his personal collection, stored in a climate-controlled space in Connecticut, numbers in the tens of thousands—and a relentless workaholic. In addition to his role at Sergio Rossi, he still runs his own label, which he started in 2012. His dry British wit and calm determination make his drive seem like one of his most charming qualities.
He’s always been someone who gets things done. As a child, he wanted to be an architect, but he gave up on that dream as soon as his mother’s friend told him it could take years to see a building completed. The teenage Andrew was horrified: Why do something if you can’t bring it to life right after designing it? “Even back then,” he says with a laugh, “I was impatient.”
GOOD AS GOLD
Andrew’s metallic carbon fiber mules for Sergio Rossi drew inspiration from Zaha Hadid’s architectural designs.
By early December of last year, Andrew was in his element, traveling between his new, sparsely furnished apartment in Milan’s Sant’Ambrogio neighborhood and the Sergio Rossi factory in San Mauro Pascoli, a small town in Emilia-Romagna known for its shoemaking heritage. He was preparing his debut collection, which included everything from gold sandals with spine-like straps to long, fuzzy mules and relaxed, hand-embellished studded boots. “Sergio invented the slouch boot,” Andrew notes, “so I wanted to pay tribute to that.” (The collection, which—against the odds—debuted in Milan in February 2025, is now available at sergiorossi.com.) Always pushing the boundaries of shoe design, Andrew created architectural, metallic carbon fiber mules with curves and lines reminiscent of Zaha Hadid’s work, produced using techniques from car manufacturing. Everything was going well—in fact, it was going great.
Except for the persistent headaches that started the very first night he moved into his new home. They grew worse over the next few days, and then his face began to tingle. Exhausted from pain and lack of sleep, Andrew went to a nearby hospital, where he spent three days waiting in an emergency room corridor for a CT scan. When the results came back, he was diagnosed with a trigeminal meningioma—a brain tumor.
One of the first people Andrew told was Siddhartha Shukla, his former partner of nearly 20 years. They remain close, and together they figured out what to do in the hours and days after the diagnosis. The initial plan was to undergo a noninvasive treatment called Gamma Knife radiosurgery, but, as Andrew puts it, “being me, I started researching online to find the best specialist, and it turned out NYU Langone developed the technology.” He soon met with neurosurgeon Dr. Chandranath Sen there, who explained that noninvasive treatment wouldn’t work for him—in fact, it could be fatal.
A daylong surgery at NYU Langone was scheduled for mid-January. “Thankfully, you can’t see the scar now because the surgeon could have been a hairstylist—he cut so well,” Andrew says. “But I had 65 stitches. I was back on Zoom calls and in meetings the day after.”
Andrew shared this with me in Paris last spring, just weeks after his operation.We met so he could update me on how he’s doing and what he’s been up to. After his surgery, he shared a raw photo on Instagram: his head freshly shaved, the stitches clearly visible along the side. He mentioned that he wasn’t bothered by losing his classic movie-star looks—his face partly paralyzed, an eye patch, a titanium weight sewn into his eyelid to keep it closed—and that his only focus was recovery. It was easy to believe him.
“I’ve felt so positive because I have amazing friends—I just didn’t realize how amazing,” Andrew tells me. “The love I received after this nightmare really pushes you forward. Suddenly you realize how much people care.” His impatience has also played a role in his recovery. “They told me it would take seven months, but just four weeks after surgery, I was on a plane to Milan and back at work.”
Since then, he’s regained some feeling in his face, the right side is less stiff, and he no longer needs the eye patch. “I love to work—it’s what I do; it’s my life,” he says. “It brings me joy, so the idea that I wouldn’t be able to work wasn’t an option.”
His approach to recovery wasn’t about slowing down. “Slowing down didn’t feel necessary,” Andrew explains. “I’m not really into yoga or meditation. Instead, I run around Parco Sempione in Milan every morning—it’s essential for my mental health. That hour, with Charli XCX, Troye Sivan, and Miley Cyrus blasting in my ears, gives me energy and helps me refocus.”
Amid his health struggles, working at Sergio Rossi has been therapeutic. The brand’s forward-looking energy has been revitalizing. When he first visited the Rossi factory, he learned that the founder never kept old designs—he refused to dwell on the past. The archive that exists today was created by his successors, and it’s all stored in an app that Andrew can access on his phone. He’s been actively adding to it—his latest contribution was a pair of kitten-heel thong sandals from a ’90s ad, which he found on eBay for $45.
What Rossi did leave behind was a room full of prototypes—ideas that pointed toward the future—which Andrew finds inspiring. For example, a carbon fiber mule with galvanized leather was inspired by something he discovered there. More broadly, Andrew is figuring out how to blend Sergio Rossi’s historical elements—like ’80s conical heels and ’90s campaigns by photographer Raymond Meier, which combined his love of shoes and modern architecture—with a contemporary feel. He’s been rethinking lightness and comfort, reshaping heels (the once-towering cone is now a low pyramid), and choosing a color palette that feels both classic and fresh—adding shades like aquamint and maple alongside black, buff, and metallics.
He’s also focused on reimagining silhouettes. “I’m trying to create shoe proportions that haven’t been seen before,” he says.
Deliberately, Andrew has chosen to collaborate with emerging designers like Ellen Hodakova Larsson (the Swedish winner of the 2024 LVMH Prize, known for deconstruction and upcycling) and Duran Lantink (the Dutch designer whose exaggerated cartoon styles earned him the creative director role at Jean Paul Gaultier). For him, it’s both a creative challenge and a way to give back. Winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2014 was a turning point—it doubled his business and caught the attention of Ferragamo in 2016, where he later became creative director.As creative director from 2019 to 2021, he expanded his design work to include clothing and bags. He notes that what women wear today has reshaped his entire design approach. “Hardly anyone wears skirts anymore,” he observes. “Everyone is in pants, so shoes must be designed with that in mind.” In today’s fashion world, where small brands compete with giants, his Sergio Rossi can remain compact yet still beautiful and unique.
His second collection, for spring 2026, will be shown in Milan this September. Andrew says it will feature “curvaceous, sculptural forms,” including the season’s new heel—an open wedge and stiletto hybrid inspired by Zaha Hadid’s Elastika sculpture.
Above all, Andrew has come to realize that after facing serious health challenges, a whole new future lies ahead. “Going through this stripped me down to the bare bones,” he reflects, “but in a way, it was a good thing. My design philosophy and how I approach things truly changed. Looking back, I see this as a clean, fresh start—a chance to do things differently.”
In this story:
Hair by Luca Lazzaro
Grooming by Mattia Andreoli
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of FAQs about Paul Andrews experience designed to be clear and conversational
General Beginner Questions
Q Who is Paul Andrew
A He is a renowned fashion designer who served as the Creative Director for the luxury Italian shoe brand Sergio Rossi
Q What happened to Paul Andrew
A He was diagnosed with a brain tumor which is a serious health condition where abnormal cells grow in the brain
Q How did he handle his brain tumor diagnosis
A He chose to face it by immersing himself in his work finding purpose joy and a sense of normalcy through the creative process of designing
Deeper Questions About His Approach
Q Why did he turn to work instead of taking a complete break
A For many creative professionals their work is more than a job its a passion and a core part of their identity Focusing on it can provide a mental escape a sense of control and a positive distraction during an incredibly difficult time
Q Whats the main lesson from his story
A The story highlights the powerful therapeutic potential of passion and creativity It shows how engaging in meaningful work can be a form of resilience and a way to maintain ones spirit during a personal health crisis
Q Did he create any specific collections during this time
A Yes he continued to design collections for Sergio Rossi His work during this period is often seen as a testament to his dedication and strength though the specific pieces arent typically singled out as being about his illness
Practical ThoughtProvoking Questions
Q Is this approach recommended for everyone facing a serious illness
A Not necessarily Everyone copes differently For some work is therapeutic for others complete rest and focus on treatment is essential Its a highly personal decision that should be made with the guidance of medical professionals
Q How can I support someone who like Paul uses work as a coping mechanism
A Respect their choice while gently encouraging balance Offer practical help to ease their nonwork burdens check in on their wellbeing without judgment and ensure they are still prioritizing their health and medical appointments
Q Where can I learn more about his story