Ralph Lauren is the first American designer to be featured in Thames & Hudson’s popular Catwalk series. In this new book, veteran fashion journalist Bridget Foley guides readers through every one of Lauren’s womenswear shows, from fall 1972 to fall 2025—many of which she attended in person.

In her introduction, Foley writes: “Lauren is clearly the most successful designer-founder in American fashion history and one of the most successful in the global industry. He also holds the longest-running creative role among major-house founders who still run their companies. After Giorgio Armani’s death in 2025, only Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto come close, having started their houses in 1969 and 1977, respectively.” Lauren, Kawakubo, and Yamamoto form a powerful trio, each with an unwavering vision that continues to shape culture. Lauren’s world-building is so effective and appealing that Foley believes he sometimes “hasn’t gotten enough credit for being the great fashion designer that he is.” The Catwalk book proves Ralph Lauren’s true credentials as a creator.

Before the book’s release, Foley discussed the authenticity and timelessness of Lauren’s work and shared some of her favorite collections.

It seems like we’re in the middle of a “Ralphaissance.” Do you agree? And what might be driving it?

I absolutely think that’s true, for a couple of reasons. We’re all flooded with the word “authenticity” in marketing, but what does it really mean? I think consumers feel that Ralph Lauren is the real deal. There’s an inherent, even subconscious, desire to believe in what we’re connecting with, and to trust that the person or company behind it truly believes in it. That’s very much the case with Ralph Lauren. Even if you only know a little about him, you can connect the dots and see a consistent, genuine belief system. So, yes, there’s authenticity.

Most people care about the environment and the world, and we want to buy smartly and well—meaning we want things that last. Ralph Lauren was early to that idea. That surprised me. I always knew he valued longevity and never chased trends, but he talked about sustainability—without using that word, since it wasn’t common—almost from the start. He said, “I want my clothes to look better next year than this year.” And he didn’t just mean year to year; he wanted things to be passed down through generations. So there’s a real belief that what this company and this man creates has genuine value.

Compared to other luxury brands—and I’m not saying other brands lack integrity—what is long-term aesthetic integrity? We live in a world of revolving-door creative directors, so what is a brand’s aesthetic integrity? It shifts or changes wildly from designer to designer. The integrity then lies more in the brand’s power and quality, which is expected at this level. But with Ralph Lauren, there’s a consistent vision that’s both cultural and embedded in the product, and it comes from a very genuine place.

Ralph Lauren, fall 2026 ready-to-wear
Photo: Courtesy of Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren, spring 2026 ready-to-wear
Photo: Luca Zanoni / Gorunway.com

I wonder if Ralph’s appeal right now has something to do with his strong association with Americanness, and if the political climate also adds to the feeling that Ralph is sturdy and steady.Regarding Annie Hall, Ralph always insists he provided the clothes, but it was really Diane Keaton’s style. It started when she brought some of her own clothes to the costume designer, and then it just took off. You can still see that influence today. Diane Keaton really made the look her own, but the individual pieces and how you can mix them still feel relevant now.

Movement is tied to freedom. And I think Ralph’s women’s clothes let you feel like yourself when you wear them.

I agree that Ralph’s clothes aren’t restrictive. At the same time, when he launched his women’s line, he was inspired by Diane Keaton, Candice Bergen, and mostly by his wife Ricky, who couldn’t find the kind of clothes she wanted. She wanted simple, uncluttered tailoring. So there’s a structure to bring that polished comfort from menswear into women’s clothing, giving women the option to be unfussy but still chic.

Ralph Lauren, fall 1976 ready-to-wear
Photo: WWD / Getty Images

There’s an early show, I think it’s fall 1976, and it’s really impressive. It had this idea of clothes for an active lifestyle, but also that those clothes deserved the runway treatment—clothes for function, for purpose, for utility were just as valid as clothes for fancy lunches and formal evenings. That sense of purpose and the need to be comfortable in your clothes was very ahead of its time. It’s fascinating because the show got good reviews, but no one could have predicted the fitness craze or the fitness revolution. Ralph Lauren really foresaw that on his runway in 1976. It’s similar to the idea of sustainability and reusing clothes. Both of those ideas were really forward-thinking.

When I was working on Gaultier’s Catwalk, I found collections that really delighted me, even if they weren’t major turning points. Can you share some things that surprised you or stood out?

It’s so hard to choose. There’s one I love, I think it’s fall 1974. At the bottom of a mostly positive WWD review, they said the only thing that didn’t work was when he went off on a Western theme, and they called it ‘at best bizarre.’ It’s funny because it was a real criticism, and look where that theme ended up.

Ralph Lauren, fall 1981 ready-to-wear
Photo: Michel Arnaud / Courtesy of Thames & Hudson

There’s another, fall 1981, which was split into parts. The first part was kind of US polish and old Hollywood to London, and the second half was a Southwest theme. Highlighting these two areas would stay important. But within the Hollywood section, one surprise for me is how sexy Ralph’s clothes are.

Ralph Lauren, spring 2002 ready-to-wear
Photo: Victor Virgile / Getty Images

One thing that struck me while working on this is that I saw certain arcs. There’s one that starts with what I call the 9/11 show, which was canceled and then rescheduled. By chance, it had a pioneer woman spirit—romantic and gentle, but also gritty and pretty. It was exactly right for that moment.

Ralph Lauren, fall 2002 ready-to-wear
Photo: Lauren Topher Cox / Shoo Digital for Style.com

Ralph Lauren, spring 2003 ready-to-wear
Photo: Shoot Digital for Style.com

Ralph Lauren, fall 2003 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcio Madeira

That led into three other shows with a romantic, historical feel. The next show was in the Reading Room, very Edwardian and tailored. Then there was this wonderfully quirky show for spring 2003 at the Cooper Hewitt.The show featured corsets, jeans, rips, beading, denim, and even a tablecloth used as an evening skirt, with upholstery jacquards turned into corsets. There was a genuine eccentricity to it that felt fun and inviting, yet still really compelling. The last show in that series was inspired by Gangs of New York, so it had that street-style tailoring and a cool, tomboyish vibe from another era.

I loved the last two shows in the book, spring and fall 2025. Spring was the Bridgehampton show—a joyful celebration of togetherness, family, and community. It featured the full Ralph Lauren range, from flag sweaters and sportswear to a gorgeous sequined ombré evening gown. Everything was presented in a casual, offhand way because the real focus was on togetherness. Then Ralph did a complete 180 in terms of presentation, showing at a beautiful downtown gallery where the focus was entirely on the clothes and the craftsmanship.

And of course, the 50th anniversary show is one of my all-time favorites. It’s just so moving.

I was amazed to hear you say that Ralph Lauren, who founded his house in 1967, is currently the longest-serving founder of a self-owned company, followed by Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto. At first, they seem like an unlikely trio, but then you start thinking about it and realize they’re all clear visionaries with a strong point of view.

Well, to that point, when I talk about this era of revolving-door creative directors, whatever you think of Ralph Lauren’s aesthetic, or Yohji’s, or Rei’s, you know it comes from a genuinely authentic place.

I have to ask you a bit about lifestyle, because Ralph’s innovation in this area is one of the reasons designers admire him so much. I guess he’s credited with making that a thing.

Ralph Lauren invented lifestyle. It started with putting sportswear on the runway and with the utilitarian concept, but then it evolved into, “Okay, I want to move into women’s wear because my wife can’t find what she wants. I’ll do kids’ clothing, I’ll do home goods.” All of these launches were organic and tied back to his early vision of creating products for the world. I don’t think it’s unfair to say he created the concept for modern life.

One of the appealing things about Ralph Lauren is that he doesn’t assign philosophical or emotional value to things based on their cost. He sees everything as equally valuable for its purpose. For Ralph, lifestyle isn’t a marketing gimmick—it’s a belief in a value system and a worldview that’s holistic rather than narrow.

Is there an element of outsiderness to Ralph’s story? Has he created the world he wanted to live in, like Gatsby?

Oddly enough, and this sounds ridiculous to say, but I think Ralph still feels like an outsider. I’ve interviewed him many times, and he’ll say that himself. I mean, Ralph is Ralph—he has a great life and has built a wonderful life for himself and his family. But I think he’s felt, perhaps because of the vision he grew up with, that he hasn’t always been appreciated as a designer. So that’s very much a part of who he is, and it’s very much a part of how he reaches out to his clientele and the world he wants to connect with.

Frequently Asked Questions
Here is a list of FAQs about the new Ralph Lauren catwalk book and the socalled Ralphissance written in a natural conversational tone

1 What exactly is the Ralphissance everyones talking about

Its a fun word that mixes Ralph with Renaissance It describes the huge comeback and renewed excitement around Ralph Laurens classic preppy and very American style especially among younger generations

2 Is this just a new book of old photos or is there new stuff in it

The book is a comprehensive visual history of Ralph Laurens runway shows from the very beginning up to the present While the photos are from past collections the way theyre curated and presented is new showing how his designs have evolved and remained relevant over decades

3 Why is Ralph Lauren so popular again right now

A few reasons People are craving timeless highquality clothes after years of fast fashion The quiet luxury trend loves his understated elegance Plus he has a very strong clear identity that feels stable and aspirational in a chaotic world

4 Does the book cover all of his collections or just the famous ones

It covers a huge range from his very first womens runway show in 1972 to his most recent collections Youll see everything from the iconic Western looks and classic polo styles to his more glamorous evening wear

5 Im not a fashion expert Will I still enjoy this book

Absolutely Its not a technical textbook Its a beautiful coffeetable book full of stunning photographs You can just flip through and enjoy the imagery the models and the evolution of a very specific American look thats become part of pop culture

6 Whats the biggest takeaway from the book for fashion designers

The biggest lesson is the power of consistency Lauren didnt chase every trend He built a world around a core set of ideasprep Western safari old Hollywoodand just kept refining it The book shows how that longterm vision creates a powerful brand

7 How is this book different from other Ralph Lauren books or biographies

Most other books focus on his personal life or his business