“It should be fine,” Kiko Kostadinov said cheerfully last Friday afternoon, just as the urgent whir of a power drill echoed through his office floor. Below their new East London studio, which they moved into in April, his third store is being set up. This Friday, November 7th, it will open with a show—the first ever to combine Kostadinov’s own menswear with the womenswear designs of Laura and Deanna Fanning.

Located at 21 Whiston Road, near Columbia Road and Broadway Market, the studio is on the first floor, while the ground-floor store (currently under construction) will be built around a reassembled artwork by frequent collaborators Ryan Trecartin and Lizzie Fitch. “It’s really an artwork reimagined as a store,” Kostadinov explains. “It’s exciting to maintain a connection between the three stores in Tokyo, LA, and now London, all part of Ryan’s creative world.” The installation arrived in ten crates and hasn’t been fully assembled yet, but Kostadinov is confident they’ll meet Friday’s deadline.

The London location completes a loosely connected trilogy of Kostadinov flagships that have developed independently. Tokyo opened in March 2024, followed by Los Angeles last November. “Tokyo is sustainable and solid,” he notes. “LA is a bit more intense; the shopping experience there is different.” Each store runs its own local events and creates content through its Instagram account. For example, the LA store partners with Rocky Xu’s Rocky’s Matcha to host monthly breakfasts. London will follow a similarly flexible schedule, open Thursday to Saturday, and occasionally on Sundays to align with the Columbia Road Flower Market.

The store came about unexpectedly after Kostadinov and his team had to leave their previous creative home in Wood Green, where they had been for ten years, when the building went up for sale. The new space is leased until 2035 and includes the street-level storefront. Kostadinov sees this as an opportunity to channel the studio’s energy into a public space. “We wanted to use some of the budget that might normally go on a photoshoot that disappears on Instagram after five days to create something tangible here,” he says. “I value building an image, but not one without substance. So we’re trying to balance image with something people can visit, interact with, and touch.”

This hands-on approach to retail reflects Kostadinov’s overall brand philosophy. “We’ve never used an outside showroom,” he shares. “We always handle wholesale ourselves with our in-house commercial director. I prefer doing less and keeping full control rather than handing it over to someone else. The more we do, the less interested I am in making deals with others for the brand.”

After Friday’s show, there will be a party nearby. The collection is named Dante, after the designers’ Lakeland terrier, who has been a constant presence in the studio since the pandemic. “He’s been to every show since COVID,” Kostadinov says. “He’s our mascot.” The inspiration came from Valentino’s line, Oliver, which the Italian designer named after his pug. “We wanted to create a collection inspired by the British countryside,” Kostadinov explains, “but none of us are British—except for Dante.”

Early previews suggest a playful, texture-rich collection that plays with themes. Mohair and leather are treated to mimic Dante’s wiry coat, and there are graphics paying tribute to the fly-fishing brand Orvis, along with Christmas cardigans and leather caps featuring the dog’s likeness. And if people think Kostadinov and the Fannings are just crazy dog lovers? “Well, we are!” the designer laughs.

The Dante show will also debut a ‘Made in England’ collaboration with Dr. Martens and a new Levi’s menswear capsule. About half of the items displayed…The new store will open for purchases the following day. “See-now, buy-now, whatever that means,” Laura remarks.

She explains that she, Deanna, and Kostadinov first connected through their co-ed collections by using shared fabrics and a common theme. “We really related to the story behind it,” she says. “We don’t have a country house ourselves, so I suppose that’s something to aspire to, but it was easy to create a world around the idea.” This marks the first time she and her twin sister Deanna, who have been leading the womenswear since 2018, have presented their designs alongside Kostadinov’s menswear. Kostadinov and Deanna got married last August, and during this interview, Deanna is at home with their new baby, along with Dante.

Having a store beneath the studio is, according to Kostadinov, “very old school. We can host dinners or screenings, maybe even the Champions League final—who knows?” (He’s a fan of Arsenal and Barcelona, for those curious.) The space is versatile, suitable for standing events or seating 20 guests at a long table. Laura adds that it also allows them to oversee how their clothes are displayed to potential customers. “It’s fascinating to see your pieces in a retail setting,” she notes. “This gives us the chance to manage that directly.” Laura recently designed the wedding dress for Steff Yotka of i-D magazine and is considering using the new London location for more VIP appointments.

Kostadinov looks forward to interacting with customers in the store. “I’m not sure what people expect from designers these days—perhaps to stay in the studio,” he says. “But if someone visits, I’m happy to meet them. It’s exciting not to transform someone but to explain the design process.” He mentions Giorgio Armani and Zegna’s Alessandro Sartori as designers known for engaging directly with customers.

His approach to this third store is intuitive and open to change. “No strategy is the strategy,” he states. The brand already has notable wholesale partnerships, including dedicated areas in Dover Street Market locations in Singapore, New York, LA, Tokyo, Beijing, and Paris. This home store will serve as an experimental space. Regarding Friday’s show, Kostadinov adds, “We’re inviting people to make them feel they’re witnessing a special moment. If it’s enjoyable, we might do this annually, perhaps in Tokyo next year.”

More from this author:
– Paul Smith and Mini Venture into Underexplored Design Territory
– Maria Grazia Chiuri Returns to Fendi as Chief Creative Officer
– ‘A Dose of Poison Against Nostalgia’: Initial reactions to Duran Lantink’s Jean Paul Gaultier

Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of FAQs about No Strategy Is the Strategy in the context of Kiko Kostadinovs London store designed to be clear concise and natural

General Beginner Questions

Q What does No Strategy Is the Strategy actually mean
A It means focusing on intuition creativity and organic growth rather than following a rigid preplanned business plan Its about being flexible and letting the brands identity guide decisions

Q Why did Kiko Kostadinov open a store in London
A To create a physical home for the brand thats more than just a place to shop Its designed as a community hub and an immersive experience that reflects the brands unique aesthetic

Q How is this store more than just a shop
A Its a multifunctional space Beyond selling clothes it hosts art installations events and community gatherings making it a cultural destination

Q Is this a sustainable way to run a business
A It can be but its highrisk It relies heavily on having a strong established brand identity and a loyal customer base that trusts your creative vision

Advanced Strategic Questions

Q What are the main benefits of adopting a no strategy approach
A The main benefits are unparalleled creative freedom the ability to adapt quickly to trends and feedback and the creation of a truly authentic brand that doesnt feel corporate or manufactured

Q What are the biggest risks or common problems with this method
A The biggest risks are financial instability lack of clear direction potential for inconsistent messaging and difficulty in scaling the business predictably Its not a model for every brand

Q Can any brand use this no strategy approach
A Not really It works best for established designers or brands with a very strong distinct vision and a dedicated following For new or unknown brands it can be a recipe for obscurity

Q How do you measure success without a traditional strategy
A Success is measured through alternative metrics cultural impact press and critical acclaim the strength of the community built around the brand and maintaining creative integrity not just sales figures

Q Whats a practical example of this strategy in the Kiko store
A The stores design and product selection arent based solely