Now in its 21st year, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund has become a key milestone for designers aiming to establish themselves in American fashion. Last week, the finalists learned they’d been selected, and this week they gathered at Vogue’s offices in One World Trade Center to present their work to the judges.
This year’s group features experienced professionals who’ve worked at other companies—and sometimes in entirely different fields—before pursuing their own creative visions. The Vogue fashion closet buzzed with energy as designers arrived one by one, rolling in racks of clothing (and in some cases jewelry or accessories) representing their brand’s “past, present, and future,” accompanied by models showcasing their designs. Meet the finalists:
Ashlyn, Founded in 2020
Ashlynn Park, 42
From Seoul, South Korea, now based in New York
How did you get into fashion?
I originally studied architecture but found it male-dominated. My aunt, a designer who ran her own business, inspired me to switch to fashion. As a hobby, I took illustration classes after school and won first prize in a sketch competition, which led me to study fashion design in Japan. I began my career as a patternmaker at Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3 menswear team, then moved to New York to work with Alexander Wang, where I became the lead patternmaker.
Why launch your own label?
I love fashion, but I also wanted a family. Balancing work and motherhood was tough, so I went freelance. Later, I joined Calvin Klein under Raf Simons, but was laid off just before COVID. Unable to find work, I used fabric sent to me for samples to create my own collections in my basement—that’s how Ashlyn began in 2020.
Is this your first time applying to the Fashion Fund?
No, it’s my second. Early on, I doubted myself—I wasn’t young or “emerging,” and my background was in patternmaking. To test my ideas, I applied to the LVMH Prize and gained confidence when selected. After not making the CFDA cut last time, I focused on building my business, improving profitability, and strengthening retailer relationships. When the CFDA invited me to reapply, I went for it.
What challenges do designers face today?
New York is expensive. I’m self-funded and not from wealth, so I keep inventory low, relying on pre-orders to stay lean.
Who inspires you in the industry?
Thom Browne—I admire how he built a lean, manageable business. Working with Nili Lotan also taught me valuable business sense.
Aubero, Founded in 2022
Julian Louie, 41
From Santa Cruz…
(Note: The text cuts off here—let me know if you’d like the rest completed.)From Los Angeles, CA, now based in Brooklyn, NY
How did you first get into fashion?
I fell in love with fashion through magazines—I always flipped through my mom’s Vogue issues as a kid, but I never thought much about it beyond that. I moved to New York to study architecture, but the experience of living here made me realize I didn’t want to be an architect. I shifted paths, graduated in 2007, and landed my first internship with Imitation of Christ.
What made you want to launch your own brand?
I launched Aubero in 2022, though I started working on it in 2021. It was a mix of timing, opportunity, and the quiet of the pandemic. I spent six months in Tucson, staying with a friend and setting up a studio in his house. I experimented with materials from Desert Vintage—it was purely exploratory, and the brand grew from there.
Years ago, I had a women’s line. After school, I was chosen by Francisco Costa (then creative director at Calvin Klein) for the Protégé Project, organized by Franca Sozzani. Franca, Francisco, Donatella Versace, Karl Lagerfeld, and Paul Smith each selected a young designer, and we created a collection sponsored by Australian Wool, shown at Pitti Uomo in Florence, then Tokyo and Sydney. That was my first big plunge. Afterward, Francisco told me, “If I could do it all over again, I’d start my own thing.” So I took his advice. I’ve consulted for other brands and worked on various projects over the years, but eventually, it was time to do something for myself again.
What do you think are some of the obstacles shaping the industry today?
The challenges are the same as always: funding, production, cash flow. But they’re not necessarily bad—especially for brands like mine. I work on a scale that makes sense for what I create. Everything is made in New York (except for a bit of embellishment done in India). Given the current economy, I feel lucky to have kept things local and contained—it keeps me agile.
Was this your first time applying for the fashion fund? What do you hope to gain?
Yes, this is my first time. I was a finalist for the LVMH Prize last year, so this felt like the natural next step. I’m excited to meet the judges and work with everyone involved. The network and community this program builds are so strong and important in New York.
Is there someone in the industry whose career you admire?
I always say Rick Owens and Dries Van Noten. There’s such clarity in their work—it’s direct, honest, and balanced. There’s pragmatism, romance, and character, with multiple ways to engage with their world. Thom Browne, too. I’m inspired by brands that balance scale, specificity, and fantasy.
If you could dress a character from a book, TV show, or movie, who would it be?
My first thought was Maggie Cheung in In the Mood for Love, but maybe also Keanu Reeves in Point Break.
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Bach Mai, Founded in 2021
Bach Mai, 36
From Houston, TX, now based in New York, NY
How did you first get into fashion?
Honestly, I don’t even remember. I fell in love with fashion—especially haute couture—when I was really young, thanks to John Galliano’s work. I started making clothes for friends, cousins, and classmates at 15 and never stopped.
What made you decide to launch your label?
I’m such a Capricorn—I’ve always had tunnel vision and a clear plan. I knew I wanted my own brand, and I made it happen.Career and Big Goals
I moved to New York to attend Parsons and later worked at Oscar de la Renta after graduating. My dream was always to become a fashion designer, move to Paris to learn from a master, and then return to establish myself as an American designer. That vision was really important to me, so I went to Paris, earned my master’s, and even had the incredible opportunity to work as John Galliano’s first assistant. The plan was to move back at 30 to launch my own label, but COVID caused a delay—we didn’t debut until 2021 with our first collection.
Was this your first time applying for the fashion fund? What do you hope to gain?
This was actually my third time applying. Coming back to establish myself as an American designer has always been a priority for me. The fund is such an iconic platform for nurturing American talent—it’s not just a stamp of approval but also provides invaluable mentorship and resources that set you up for success.
What challenges do you see in the industry today?
Honestly, what isn’t a challenge right now? Compared to 20 or 30 years ago, it’s even harder for emerging brands to break through, especially with so much power concentrated among major labels. The luxury retail sector is also undergoing massive shifts. But these obstacles aren’t unique to fashion—they’re part of being an entrepreneur in any field. At the same time, this moment of change makes it exciting to be a new designer because we have the chance to redefine fashion.
If you could dress any fictional character, who would it be?
Leeloo from The Fifth Element immediately comes to mind—she’s a fashion icon, thanks to those incredible Gaultier costumes! I also love the idea of dressing a courtesan like Madame de Pompadour.
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Bernard James, Founded in 2020
From Brooklyn, NY
How did you get into jewelry?
I’ve always had both an entrepreneurial and creative spirit. I knew I wanted to design something, but I wasn’t sure what. In a way, ignorance helped me—I thought, Jewelry is small, so it must be easier than clothing! (laughs). A family friend who was a jeweler ended up teaching me everything I know, and that changed my life.
What inspired you to launch your label?
I spent a decade building my career in luxury brands, mostly on the business side. I filed the paperwork to start my company in 2019, but the pandemic hit, and when everything slowed down, I channeled all my anxiety and uncertainty into my work. That’s how things really took off.
Was this your first time applying for the fashion fund? What do you hope to gain?
We applied last year. Beyond the prestige, I’m excited about the community and mentorship opportunities—learning from people who’ve succeeded in this industry is invaluable.
What challenges do you see in the industry today?
Beyond the obvious hurdles, being self-funded and independent means doing things differently. Many industries, including fashion, still operate in outdated ways, and there’s a lot of pressure on brands at every level. Because of our product and what we’ve achieved, expectations are high—and I always strive to meet them—but as a small team, it can be exhausting.As an emerging brand, it’s challenging to balance presenting ourselves the way we want while reminding people we’re still a small brand doing our best.
Is there someone in the industry whose career you admire?
Without a doubt, Thom Browne. He’s built a loyal community around his brand while staying true to his artistic vision. His fashion shows inspire dreams and keep alive the escapism that fashion represents. Yet his designs remain wearable—something we can live in and be inspired by.
### Don’t Let Disco, Founded in 2021
Ashley Moubayed, 36
From Cleveland, OH, now based in Brooklyn, NY
How did you first get into jewelry?
It’s always been part of me. In high school, my friends and I would go thrifting, and I was always drawn to the jewelry section. I’d buy vintage pieces, take them apart, and remake them for my friends. I loved creating something new from what already existed—it was therapeutic and caught on quickly. In college, I sold my jewelry at “Market Fridays,” where students sold everything from tutoring to baked goods. I’d thrift during the week, make pieces in my dorm, and by Friday, we’d have extra cash to skip the dining hall and get sushi instead.
What made you decide to launch your label?
I studied literature and thought I’d go to law school. After graduating, I worked in advertising—a mix of creativity and business. Later, I joined Sotheby’s marketing team, covering everything from Renaissance art to rare books and 20th-century design. It opened my eyes in ways I hadn’t experienced before.
Then, my grandmother sent me one of the bracelets I’d made in college and asked, “Remember when you used to make these?” Something clicked. I started beading again—it was cathartic. A friend noticed one of my bracelets and loved it, so I made more for her. She then asked me to make 25 for her sister’s bachelorette trip, and suddenly, I was working full-time by day and making jewelry by night. When I got a chance to have a temporary storefront, I reviewed my numbers and realized—I could do this.
Was this your first time applying for the fashion fund? What do you hope to gain?
This was my second time. This year, I felt we had a strong story to tell, and I love how challenges push me and the business forward—often leading to innovation. We’re growing fast, almost too fast, and this opportunity would provide mentorship to ensure we’re building sustainably and scaling wisely.
Is there someone in the industry whose career you admire?
Aurora James is incredible. I don’t know how she does it all—building a successful business while creating a platform to help other designers. Her career is so thoughtful, and seeing people like her is truly inspiring.
If you could dress a character from a book, TV show, or movie, who would it be?
(Answer not provided in original text.)Who would it be? Snoopy. He always wears that cute little red collar, but I’d love to design something really special for him.
Gabe Gordon
Founded in 2019
Age: 26 (Gordon), 28 (Timothy Gibbons)
Hometowns: Ridgefield, CT (Gordon) and Belfast, Ireland (Gibbons)
Now based in Brooklyn, NY
How did you first get into fashion?
Gabe Gordon: I grew up watching Project Runway with my mom. We had a dog, and my mom once said her brindle coat reminded her of a Missoni sweater—that got me interested in knits and textiles. I was also into painting as a kid, so I went to RISD to study textile design. It felt like a natural blend of both passions.
Timothy Gibbons: My love for clothing started with Halloween. Since I’m Irish—and Halloween has Celtic roots—I’d make costumes with my aunt and family from a young age. In all my childhood photos, no matter the season, I’m in some kind of costume. Later, I studied costume and performance at Central Saint Martins in London.
What made you decide to launch your label?
GG: It started while I was still in school. After interning at Gauntlett Cheng and working at Café Forgot, they offered to sell some of my pieces. The brand gained traction—stores like Maimoun picked it up, and even celebrities like the Kardashians wore my designs. I was still a student, so it was surreal. Ssense placed orders too. After graduating in 2022, I moved to New York to focus on the brand full-time, but it was overwhelming. I took a break to reassess, then met Timothy, and everything clicked. We decided to work together.
Was this your first time applying for the fashion fund? What do you hope to get out of it?
GG: I applied two years ago, but this time felt different—more prepared. Running a brand can feel isolating, so being part of a community of young creatives is exciting. Sustainability is important to us, and scaling responsibly is a challenge. Mentorship could help with that.
TG: Having the CFDA’s support means everything. It validates our brand in ways we can’t even fully grasp yet.
How are you handling tariffs as an independent brand?
GG: This season, the tariffs have been brutal—delays, cancellations, losses we can’t afford. Pricing is tricky—we want our clothes to be accessible to our peers, but it’s tough balancing wholesale value with affordability. That’s part of why we’re excited about the fund—it could help us navigate these challenges.Here’s a more natural and fluent version of your text while keeping the original meaning intact:
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We price our products based on how we make them, ensuring the brand remains sustainable.
If you could dress a character from a book, TV show, or movie, who would it be?
TG: Someone from a Tim Burton movie—probably the Mad Hatter.
GG: Coraline. I love dolls, and that’s a core part of our brand.
TG: Wait, no—I change my answer to Pinhead from Hellraiser. That look is incredible!
### Heirlome
Founded: 2022
Stephanie Suberville, 40
From Monterrey, México, now based in New York, NY
How did you first get into fashion?
I never wanted to do anything else. I remember in first grade, we had to draw self-portraits. When I handed mine in, my teacher was amazed—she said, “Wow.” That’s when I realized, “Oh, this is what I’m good at.” I became obsessed with fashion, and my mom researched schools, eventually finding Parsons. By sixth grade, I was telling everyone, “I’m moving to New York to go to Parsons.” It was the only school I applied to—thankfully, I got in, because I had no backup plan.
What made you decide to launch your label?
I graduated from Parsons in 2008 as Designer of the Year, which earned me a feature on Style.com. My first job was at Rag & Bone—Marcus Wainwright and David Neville saw my collection at the Parsons show and hired me. They even helped with my visa. I was employee #25, and by the time I left, the company had grown to 300 people. It was an exciting time—rapid growth, hitting milestones as a team.
After that, I worked at Elizabeth and James when Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen took it back from the licensee. When the brand closed, I was pregnant and took time off before freelancing. The whole time, I knew I wanted to start my own brand.
Now, I’m also the creative director for Argent. When I met the founder, I told her, “Let me do my brand while working for you—you might not see me much, but everything will get done.” For the past three years, I’ve been balancing both.
Was this your first time applying for the fashion fund? What do you hope to get out of it?
I applied last year but felt the brand was too young. This time, I was more prepared. The funding would be great, but I also value the community, networking, and brand awareness it brings.
What do you think are the biggest challenges in the industry right now?
My husband and I are both co-founders with full-time jobs. We’re self-funded and want to stay that way, but it’s tough without more help. We handle all our wholesale orders—shipping to four countries—which is crazy. Wholesale is strong, but cash flow is hard as a small brand with less leverage. We invested our savings three years ago, and the company sustains itself through sales. Our priority is always paying factories on time.
Is there someone in the industry whose career you admire?
People like Maria Cornejo and Ulla Johnson inspire me—they’ve stayed independent and self-funded for so long. When things get tough, I look at them and think, “They’ve done it—I can too.”
If you could dress a character from a book, TV show, or movie, who would it be?
Diane Keaton in almost anything she’s ever been in.
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This version keeps the original meaning while making the text more natural and engaging. Let me know if you’d like any further refinements!Jamie Okuma
Founded in 2018
From La Jolla Indian Reservation, CA
How did you first get into fashion?
I’ve been doing it forever—it wasn’t just one thing. It started with cultural dancing at Pow Wows. From a very young age, I learned to make every piece of clothing needed for the outfits. Later, while in community college, I went to the Santa Fe Indian Market, the biggest Native art show in the country. Winning there can change your career. I was making soft sculptures—miniature figures in traditional attire, crafting tiny clothes with all the beading and silverwork. When I won the top award, the demand for my work grew so much that I left school to focus on it.
What made you decide to launch your label?
I started in fine art, but after having a family, I couldn’t dedicate the same intense focus—I was only making a few pieces a year. Fashion felt like a natural shift. I began by printing my artwork on scarves, then turned those into handmade scarf dresses. From there, I expanded to other clothing. It all happened organically—no business plan, just taking it step by step.
Was this your first time applying for the fashion fund? What do you hope to get out of it?
Yes, it’s my first time. Friends encouraged me, but I was hesitant—it’s demanding. I remember seeing it on TV and thinking, Wow, that’s intense. But I figured, Why not? The worst that happens is nothing changes. I’m excited for the experience—learning from other creatives, getting advice on navigating the industry. I have a niche audience, but I want to see the bigger world of fashion.
What obstacles do you face in the industry? How do you handle tariffs as an independent brand?
Time is my biggest challenge—there’s never enough of it. But I don’t dwell on it; I just keep moving forward. As for tariffs, I don’t even know what’s available to me, so I can’t say how they affect me.
If you could dress a character from a book, TV show, or movie, who would it be?
Tilda Swinton—she’s like a walking piece of art.
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Meruert Tolegen
Founded in 2021
From Almaty, Kazakhstan, now based in New York, NY
How did you first get into fashion?
I’ve always loved creative things—fashion wasn’t the initial focus. I get obsessed with little subjects, and at some point, I started collecting garments—not as a serious collector, just buying pieces I loved. I was fascinated by the craftsmanship and how much work went into them.
What made you decide to launch your label?
After having my daughter, I thought I’d return to research labs, but I couldn’t. Instead, I opened a children’s boutique, curating pieces I liked. Then I thought, Why not make my own? That’s how it began.I started by making children’s clothing, and soon mothers began asking for matching pieces. I used luxurious fabrics like velvets and French embroidered tulle with flocking—some costing around $80 per meter—though at the time, I didn’t realize how expensive that was. Again, I had to learn the ins and outs of the business on my own. Eventually, I felt the designs were too elaborate, using couture-level fabrics, so I decided to separate it from the children’s line. I created a new website and started sharing my work on Instagram.
Was this your first time applying for the fashion fund? What do you hope to gain from it?
I applied a few years ago but was encouraged to try again this year. For me, mentorship is the most valuable part. I need guidance on turning this into a sustainable business. Design-wise, I have the vision and creativity to build my own world—but how do I communicate that to others? How do I grow financially and keep the brand moving forward? A brand can’t survive on just luck and passion forever—you need a solid business strategy.
Is there someone in the industry whose career you admire?
Zac Posen, who built his own brand before becoming Gap’s creative director, or the Proenza Schouler designers now at Loewe—they’re proof that starting a brand, growing it, and eventually leading a major label is possible.
If you could dress a character from a book, TV show, or movie, who would it be?
This might sound odd, but I love Surely You’re Joking, Mr. Feynman! by physicist Richard Feynman. He was brilliant, curious, and hilarious—like when he crawled around smelling the floor to figure out how ants navigate. It’s nonfiction, but I design womenswear!
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### Peter Do, Founded in 2018
Age: 35
From: Bien Hoa, Vietnam
Based in: New York, NY
How did you first get into fashion?
My grandmother taught me to sew as a child—fixing buttons and mending hand-me-downs in Vietnam. In high school in Pennsylvania, we held a fashion show for the art club, and my mom bought me a $20 sewing machine from Kmart. That’s where I really learned.
What made you launch your label?
After studying at Parsons and FIT, I worked at Celine and Derek Lam. I wanted to do more than just design—I had my own voice. I started Peter Do right after leaving Derek Lam.
Was this your first time applying for the fashion fund? What do you hope to gain?
We planned to apply three years ago, but then I took the Helmut Lang role. Now, with seven years of running my brand and my Helmut experience, we’re clearer on our direction. We’re still small—just four or five people—and we’re ready to grow with the right support.
Who in the industry inspires you?
Rick Owens. He stayed true to himself, even when it was hard, and built success on his own terms. That’s inspiring—seeing someone succeed by sticking to their vision.
What challenges do independent brands face today?
[Response not provided in the original text.]Everything is impacting the wholesale business—decisions about what to showcase, changing tariffs every week. I don’t feel there’s much support, though I’m not sure if things were better before my time. The industry before COVID and after COVID feel completely different. We launched our brand just before the pandemic, so it’s been a challenging shift. Many multi-brand stores have closed, payment terms keep getting tougher, and the supply chain is a constant struggle. All of this makes it really difficult to just focus on the creative work.