In the heart of India’s jungles grows a tree called the Flame of the Forest, named for its brilliant orange flowers that light up the landscape each spring. I arrive at Bandhavgarh National Park just as these fiery blooms begin to fade, their vibrant display reduced to scattered flickers of color. Though I’ve missed the peak of this natural spectacle, my disappointment fades when a rich, sweet fragrance fills the air as I enter the grand gates of Oberoi Vindhyavilas Wildlife Resort.
“It’s the Mahua flower,” explains Vikas Sawhney, the resort’s general manager, handing me a chilled glass of homemade lemonade. Over the next few days, I’ll learn that India’s wilderness always has something extraordinary to offer, no matter the season.
This is Oberoi’s second wildlife resort, part of their collection of luxury properties in some of the world’s most remote and sought-after destinations. Opened just a month before my visit, its 19 luxury tents and two pool villas—spread across 21 acres of swaying grass and kachnar trees—are already in high demand. The reason? Bandhavgarh’s most famous resident: the Royal Bengal Tiger.
Getting here requires a visa, multiple flights, and long drives—logistics I entrusted to Abercrombie & Kent. Their experts crafted a seamless journey, starting with a stop at Oberoi’s waterfront property in Mumbai, where I spent two nights adjusting to the new time zone. Mornings were spent exploring spice markets and historic landmarks, followed by sunset cocktails overlooking the Arabian Sea. A leisurely dinner at Ziya, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant led by Chef Vineet Bhatia, and I was in bed early, ready for the next day’s adventure.
After a short flight and a four-hour drive, I finally arrived at The Oberoi Vindhyavilas—just in time for the sweltering midday heat. The ground was too hot to walk on barefoot, but this was actually the best time to visit. As temperatures rise and the foliage thins, tiger sightings become more likely. With the region’s tiger population on the rise, my chances of spotting one were promising.
After finishing my refreshing lemonade (did I mention how hot it was?), a cart whisked me along a winding path to my home for the next few nights. More than a tent, it was a lavish retreat beneath a hand-embroidered canopy, living up to Oberoi’s reputation for elegance. The resort’s name pays tribute to the Vindhya Mountains that stretch through Madhya Pradesh, and its design honors the sacred landscapes of the local Gond and Baiga tribes.
That embroidered canopy? A closer look reveals intricate patterns of the native Barasingha deer and Mahua tree. Even the grand wooden entrance gate was hand-carved by Gond artisans with tribal motifs—a tradition where locals etch images of their cattle into their doors. Every detail, I soon realized, was a thoughtful nod to Bandhavgarh’s rich culture.
Knowing guests would come from across the globe to see Bandhavgarh’s wildlife, Oberoi wisely brought in expert Ratna Singh to train their in-house naturalists. Beyond leading game drives, they guide nature walks, birdwatching excursions, and evening talks—ensuring every moment here is steeped in discovery.(All of which turned out to be highlights of my stay.)
“The tiger had no natural predators until humans with guns arrived,” naturalist Soulin Chakraborty tells me as I settle onto the sofa and order a Kingfisher beer before dinner. For the next 45 minutes, he shares the story of the Royal Bengal Tiger, tracing its place in India’s history and explaining how decades of poaching and habitat loss led to the creation of wildlife protection laws. “Since the 1970s, when former Prime Minister Indira Gandhi banned tiger hunting, India’s tiger reserves have grown from nine to nearly 58,” Chakraborty says. To me, these talks feel more like an exciting preview—packed with fascinating facts that build anticipation for the next morning’s safari.
To my delight, dinner is served outdoors that evening. Dining under the stars might sound like an overused phrase, but as I take my seat, I’m stunned by the breathtaking canopy of stars above. The food is just as impressive. Executive Chef Sachin Kumar, trained in the Royal Kitchen of Nagod, highlights local ingredients and traditional recipes. I pair crispy lotus stems and jackfruit dumplings in a rich tomato gravy with a cocktail from the Jungle Book-themed drink menu. (It’s worth noting that Rudyard Kipling’s famous 1894 stories were largely set in Madhya Pradesh, including the Seoni region.)
The next morning, I’m not woken by my 4:45 a.m. alarm but by the echoing calls of a male macaque—nature’s perfect wake-up call. After tea and biscuits in the lobby, I climb into an open-air Gypsy with Nakul, a naturalist partnered with Abercrombie & Kent, and we set off into the quiet predawn darkness.
Bandhavgarh is divided into three core zones—Tala, Magadhi, and Khitauli—plus buffer areas where villagers live. Alongside its estimated 135 tigers, the park is home to leopards, sloth bears (unrelated to actual sloths), elephants, and over 250 bird species. The landscape is officially classified as a moist mixed deciduous forest, but in simpler terms, it’s a stunning mix of dense woods, open plains, and a towering plateau in the distance.
When I first spot a tiger—about an hour into the drive—a mix of awe and fear rushes through me. It hits me that these incredible creatures are real… and one is just 15 feet away from my fragile human self. My heart races, my breath quiets, and my eyes lock onto this 500-pound predator that could tear me apart with a single swipe of its massive paw.
The tiger strolls down a hillside, crosses the road right in front of our Gypsy, and flops down for a rest. After a few minutes, it casually vanishes into the tall grass. “We’re lucky to see one so early,” our driver Jagdish remarks before we continue our search.
“In India, it’s easy to stumble upon things that are 2,500 years old,” Nakul jokes as our Gypsy climbs the rocky plateau. At the top lies something so astonishing it feels unreal—a 35-foot sandstone statue of Vishnu, the Hindu “preserver” deity, reclining beside a natural spring. Carved in the 10th century, the sculpture sits peacefully as water trickles around it. As a Westerner unaccustomed to such ancient wonders, the scene feels like something out of an Indiana Jones movie. But here, thousand-year-old statues hidden deep in tiger-filled jungles aren’t fiction—they’re just part of the landscape.My remaining days at Oberoi Vindhyavilas were filled with deep, meaningful moments. I had more incredible tiger sightings—including one feasting on cattle—along with chances to experience local tribal culture. Each sunrise and sunset transformed Bandhavgarh’s landscape into stunning shades of red, orange, and gold.
On my last evening, after the game drive, I heard the distant sound of flutes and drums. Curious, I asked the young woman escorting me back to my tent about the music. “It’s a celebration for the Hindu gods,” she explained. “They’re going to sleep, and this is our way of saying goodbye to them.” As a writer, I couldn’t help but appreciate the symbolism. Around me, Mahua blossoms were already falling, scattering the ground like delicate snowflakes. The next guests might miss their sweet fragrance, just as I had missed the Flame of the Forest in full bloom. But she assured me that once the flowers fade, the Mahua fruit begins to ripen.
Like I said—in India, nature always knows how to put on a spectacular show.