Hernan Diaz was born in Buenos Aires and moved to Stockholm at age two, after the 1976 military coup. He returned only when democracy was restored seven years later. “All my childhood memories are in Swedish, a language I still speak fluently,” he says. “Those sunlit summer midnights and pitch-black winter mornings shaped me in decisive ways. I also read my first books in Swedish, which has made me nostalgic for everything related to Astrid Lindgren. My parents owned a beautiful country house where, supposedly, the Beatles found refuge during their Swedish tour—I’m not sure this is true, but I have no intention of debunking the family myth.”The author’s Pulitzer Prize–winning novel Trust is being adapted as a Netflix series starring and executive-produced by Kate Winslet. He’s also an executive producer, along with writer/director Todd Haynes. His first novel, In the Distance, was a finalist for the Pulitzer, and his latest, Ply (Riverhead), set in the future, comes out today. “Swedish was my first literary language as a child, and why I ended up somewhat spontaneously acquiring English in my teens,” Diaz says. “Being surrounded by the beautiful music of Scandinavian vowels and the transparency of its syntax is always a source of immense joy.”He keeps up with Sweden’s literary scene, has friends and family there, and tries to visit Stockholm every year. “Despite having spent most of my life in New York,” he says, “I consider myself to be—in limited but decisive ways—part Swedish.”Below, his recommendations for his adopted city. May they bring you immense joy.Hernan Diaz in front of the Rival HotelPhoto: Courtesy Hernan DiazBest time to visit, weather-wise: Summers are famously glorious. The light. That watery blue sky… Most European countries shut down in August, but Swedes tend to take July off, which makes this my favorite month to visit. Everyone is just so happy and relaxed.Favorite hotel: For the last few years, I’ve consistently stayed at Rival, owned by ABBA’s own Benny Andersson. It’s right on Mariatorget, a lovely square surrounded by excellent coffee shops, restaurants, a natural wine bar, and bookshops. Make sure to get a room with a balcony for private hipster-gazing with a cocktail. But Rival now has a…rival. The rooms at Stockholm’s Stadshotell (formerly a women’s shelter) are exquisite, lovely examples of soothing Scandinavian minimalism. The restaurant is fabulous.Best restaurant: Nothing beats Prinsen for old-school charm. Very Swedish menu—herring, prawns, biff Rydberg. During my last trip, I looked for the best cod in town. They have it. I had dinner there so many times that one of the servers gave me the beautiful enamel pin they wear on their chic uniforms.The bar at BakfickanPhoto: Courtesy Hernan DiazBest dish: I love having lunch at Bakfickan, the restaurant attached to the Royal Swedish Opera. The main room is beautiful, but I prefer the bar. I have discovered that their meatballs, the best in town, pair really well with Chablis. Oh, and summer potatoes. Summer potatoes are very, very important.To see art: Fotografiska and Moderna Museet.To buy flowers: Christoffers Blommor, in the old town.Inside the Rönnel’s Antikvariat bookstorePhoto: Courtesy Hernan DiazBookstore or library: Rönnel’s Antikvariat is one of the most beautiful, surprising, and coolest bookstores in the world. So many unexpected gems. They also have gorgeous prints. And the space itself is unbelievable. Nord Books is an exquisitely curated English-language bookshop steps away from Mariatorget. Within walking distance is Söderbokhandeln, with a great selection of books on art and music, many of them in English.Nature escape: The whole city is, of course, an archipelago. The center is relatively small, but the whole archipelago, known as Skärgården, comprises over 30,000 islands. That means that you are always a short boat trip away from a bucolic destination. Some of the ferries cost as much as a subway trip—and run almost as frequently.For peace and quiet: Stockholmhas one of the most beautiful parks in the world. You can easily spend a whole day in Djurgården. If you do, lunch at Rosendals Trädgård is an unforgettable experience. They grow all their food organically right there in the park, next to the restaurant. It’s incredibly good. The greenhouses at Rosendals Trädgård. Photo: courtesy Hernan Diaz. Best way to get around town: on foot. If you’re spending most of your time in central Stockholm, you’re pretty much an hour away from everywhere. I also love the subway system. Best view: Like many European cities, Stockholm’s skyline is quite low. That’s why Himlen (which means “heaven” or “sky”), a rooftop bar on the 25th floor right on the water, offers unmatched views. Right below it, with equally breathtaking views, is Gondolen. Amazing fish and a fantastic wine list. If the weather is nice, dine outside by the water, facing the skyline, at Måsen. Best place for people-watching: I grew up in Stockholm during the heyday of social democracy. That’s why I’m always surprised to see Italian sports cars driven by overly tanned men wearing watches the size of Swedish cinnamon buns. To witness this scene, nothing beats a sidewalk seat and a cocktail at Café Riche, in the middle of the posh Östermalm neighborhood. Best place for wine: Matbaren probably has the best wine list in Stockholm. It’s right next to the famous Grand Hotel, and the small dishes are incredibly creative and elegant. Babette has a lovely selection of natural wines. As counterintuitive as it may seem in Stockholm, do order the stracciatella pizza. Café Nizza is a charming spot in Södermalm with perfectly unfussy dishes and fun bottles. Savant is where you want to go if you just want a well-curated glass and a nibble.

Frequently Asked Questions
FAQs Hernan Diaz Knows Where to Find the Best Cod in Stockholm

1 Who is Hernan Diaz
Hernan Diaz is a Pulitzer Prizewinning author best known for the novel Trust In this context hes the person rumored to know exactly where to get the best cod in Stockholm

2 Wait does Hernan Diaz actually know where to find the best cod in Stockholm
Thats the claim Whether its from personal experience research for his writing or just a good tip he picked up hes the goto source on this

3 Why Stockholm for cod
Stockholm sits on the Baltic Sea and is close to the North Atlantic fishing trade so fresh cod is a staple in Swedish cuisine The city has a long tradition of preparing it well

4 What makes Stockholm cod so good
Freshness cold northern waters and classic Swedish preparation methods like panfrying in butter breading or serving it with mustard sauce and boiled potatoes

5 Im a total beginner Whats the simplest way to enjoy cod in Stockholm
Try a classic stekt torsk with boiled potatoes and dill or fish and chips at a reputable seafood spot You cant go wrong with the basics

6 Where exactly does Hernan Diaz say to go
Reports point to traditional seafood restaurants and market halls rather than tourist traps Places like stermalms Saluhall are the kind of spot that fits the bill

7 What is stermalms Saluhall
Its a famous indoor market hall in Stockholm dating back to 1888 full of fish counters delis and restaurants A great place to start a cod hunt

8 Are there other good spots
Yes smaller neighborhood fish shops and harborside restaurants often serve excellent cod Ask locals rather than relying only on guidebooks

9 How do I know the cod is fresh
It should smell clean and mild not fishy The flesh should look glossy and firm and spring back when pressed

10 Whats the best season for cod
Cod is available yearround but many Swedes associate it with winter and holiday tables especially around Christmas

11 What common mistakes do people make when ordering cod
Ordering it