Even as America’s global reputation declines, Ralph Lauren—the quintessential American brand—is gaining more international appeal. According to Vogue Business, the company’s sales in Europe and China rose by 12% and 9% respectively in fiscal year 2025. This growth means most of its $7.1 billion revenue came from outside the U.S. So, while the broader luxury market struggles, how is Ralph Lauren defying the trend? Tonight’s Purple Label show offered part of the answer.

After passing a vintage car in the courtyard, the presentation unfolded in two parts. The first section featured polished, nautical-inspired looks—think refined yacht club attire. A white-trimmed navy boating blazer paired with a striped shirt, cravat, pleated linen shorts, and espadrilles exuded effortless elegance. A double-breasted navy blazer with a silver-buttoned club badge felt like commodore-worthy luxury. Textured silk shirts, color-block knits, and classic cable-knit sweaters completed the breezy, sophisticated aesthetic.

The second section, set in the brand’s Milan palazzo courtyard, was a masterclass in tonal dressing. Nearly all of the 25 models wore variations of khaki and rich brown, from a pale safari-style fishing jacket to a weathered leather flight jacket with a matching pilot’s watch. The collection included textured field jackets, tailored military-inspired shirts, and art-deco tuxedo jackets—clothes for a worldly, effortless hero.

The cravats and short-sleeve shirts channeled Cary Grant’s suave charm, while the sleek khakis evoked Hemingway’s Key West adventures. The flight jackets and tuxedos felt tailor-made for stars like Pitt and Clooney. Lauren has always designed with cinematic flair, and this show captured an idealized, aspirational vision of America—one that feels even more appealing precisely because it feels just out of reach today.