“We deal in dreams,” said Ian Griffiths before a show as magical as any in his 38 years with Max Mara. Standing in a preview space overlooking Naples Bay with Mount Vesuvius looming in the distance, he explained: “We trade in romance. So when this collection references Naples, it’s our dream version of Naples—to me, the most quintessentially Italian city, where you find Italy’s purest essence.”

These words from the veteran designer foreshadowed the fashion spectacle to come—a collection he called Vesuvian Venus. His inspiration board featured Sophia Loren in It Started in Naples and Silvana Mangano in Bitter Rice, two iconic, curvaceous stars who embodied the cinematic glamour of 1950s Italy—a decade that shaped Italian style into a global fashion phenomenon.

Gwyneth Paltrow, who starred in the retro-styled The Talented Mr. Ripley (1999), attended the show. Griffiths noted: “Today’s culture has become so uniform… To find real character, you have to revisit a place’s golden age.”

Max Mara, founded in 1951, was born in that very era, and this show marked the start of its 75th-anniversary celebrations. The venue—the Royal Palace of Caserta, just outside Naples—is said to be the world’s largest royal residence (though its original royals have long since left). “We chose it simply because it was the most breathtaking place we saw,” Griffiths said. “And trust me, we looked at plenty of stunning locations around Naples.”

This dreamlike collection in a fairytale setting blended multiple influences. Central were the tiny shorts Mangano wore in Bitter Rice, which Griffiths used to contrast Naples’ masculine tailoring traditions (with help from local expert Vincenzo Cuomo) and vintage 1951 patterns from E. Marinella (the legendary menswear tie-maker) against bold, ultra-feminine silhouettes.

A teddy coat in pastel pink, a sequin-studded ivory knit bodysuit, and a black wool work shirt with a plunging sweetheart neckline pushed Max Mara’s usual boundaries—like melting gelato dripping from its cone. Circle skirts, bra tops, thigh-high boots, and sheer bustiers added sultry drama to the brand’s signature style.

Playful touches—a pleated pant-dress, striped shirting, and fringed silk separates in Marinella prints—mixed masculine touches with the collection’s Venus-inspired allure. Fresco prints and coral cameo belts nodded to local history, while tied-sleeve blouses over high-waisted denim played with gender fluidity.

Despite the heat, Griffiths ensured Max Mara’s fantasy never felt overdone. “It might be sexier than what our customer usually wears,” he said, “but in a way that makes her feel completely at ease. Because women trust Max Mara to give them fashion that works for them.” That practicality, he added, was the foundation for tonight’s dazzling dream.