Sixty-seven graduates from the Fashion Institute of Technology showcased 82 designs across five categories—sportswear, children’s wear, knitwear, intimate apparel, and special occasion wear—at the Future of Fashion show. Sponsored by Macy’s, the event also highlighted select student designs that will go into production.

In recent years, design students worldwide have embraced progressive themes, but this year’s collection was more subdued in color and silhouette, with no overt gender exploration. Menswear was notably absent, likely because FIT offers it only as an associate degree, not part of the BA showcase. Still, students didn’t avoid relevant topics—though, as Troy Richards, dean of the School of Art and Design, noted, “This year felt like an overcorrection from the progressive politics we’ve been pushing.”

Post-pandemic, Richards observed students reconnecting with craftsmanship: “We’ve seen a sharp improvement in their hands-on skills and a renewed interest in textures, materials, and structure.” This was evident in Allison Margaret Smith’s work (looks 1 and 3), which opened the show with raffia, straw, jute, and balsa wood pieces inspired by America’s landscapes. Austin Marshalek’s knitwear (looks 52 and 53) drew from Pittsburgh’s evolution, while Nathaniel Samuel’s Belle Époque-inspired opera coat (look 80) was a “love letter to New York.”

Heritage and family influenced many designs. Evelyn Hernandez (look 6) from Mexico created a leg shawl, while Jegu Kim reimagined traditional Korean attire (look 18). Jennifer Sze (look 60) referenced her stonemason father’s tools in a sculptural blue pleated ensemble. Amanda McVey (look 26) hand-shaved a plaid pattern into shearling, honoring Scottish traditions, and Leyi Huang (looks 75/76) took inspiration from ancient Tibetan rituals. Bilegbayar Senegedorj (look 19) channeled Mongolian shamanism, and Servan Bilici (look 23) transformed a jacket and pants with motifs from the mystical serpent tale “Şahmeran.”

Insects inspired Danya Ruddock’s bug-like muslin design (look 2) and Alexandra Dayton’s striking panniered look (look 8). Yuval Sorotzkin blended corsetry with menswear fabrics (looks 79 and 82), while Xiangyu Yang’s studded leather coat (look 16) from his “Punk Communist” collection brought edge. Analiese Harden’s bubble pants (look 63) reflected her experience with Alice in Wonderland Syndrome. Peleg Assulin’s war-themed pieces (looks 7 and 35) disguised hardship with charm—an Empire-line dress with a burlap skirt and a lace-trimmed blazer made from overalls. In contrast, Madison McGinley’s “straight jacket” confronted the discomfort of womanhood.

The fun of fashion shone in Zoja Zegarac’s Diana Ross-inspired denim (look 30) and Burak Turp’s printed denim (look 29). Lochlain Skove experimented with waterproof knits, adding a technical twist to her work.The mangrove-inspired designs (looks 58 and 59) were charming. Jesus Garcia embraced the trendy minimalist style (look 24), while Yuxiang Xiong brought expressive textures to her sleek creations (looks 32 and 33).