The mood shifted unexpectedly after about 20 minutes of exploring Giorgio Armani’s stunning new exhibition celebrating his 20 years in couture. It was just past noon on Monday in Milan, where Armani’s team had spent the weekend putting the final touches on the installation at Armani/Silos—the four-story former grain warehouse he converted into a museum in 2015.

Downstairs, the team had appeared focused yet relaxed—after all, 90% of the work for tomorrow’s opening of “Giorgio Armani Privé 2005-2025: Twenty Years of Haute Couture” was already done. At the heart of the Silos’ vast atrium stood a dramatic off-the-shoulder gown from fall 2019, recently worn by Irina Shayk at the Cannes Film Festival. Its white pinpoints scattered over a deep black base mirrored the starry projection on the towering walls around us.

Moving deeper into the exhibition, we encountered a trio of looks: a long jacket, a crescent-shouldered gown, and another off-the-shoulder dress with a striking asymmetrical hem—all in cream silk and sequins, set against a crescent moon backdrop. The eveningwear theme was unmistakable. These pieces came from fall 2008 and spring 2010, hinting at the exhibition’s approach of grouping designs by aesthetic rather than chronology.

Around a dimly lit corner, a subtle nod to these creations’ lives beyond the Paris runway (where Armani has shown since 2005) appeared—a small plaque noting that a dazzling silver mesh gown with Swarovski floral details had been worn by Cate Blanchett at the 2007 Oscars. Upstairs, sections highlighted color, tailoring (even in couture, jackets remain Armani’s bestsellers), and influences from Japan and broader Asia.

Though I didn’t count, nearly all of Armani’s 40 couture collections seemed represented—standouts included spring 2011’s Éclat des Pierres, spring 2014’s Nomade, and fall 2023’s Les Temps des Roses. For Milan, this marks the first chance to see these pieces beyond runway images and red-carpet glimpses.

The atmosphere changed as we neared the breathtaking green dragon dress from Armani’s One Night in Beijing (2012). Pausing on a balcony, I noticed two staffers below swiftly repositioning a mannequin. The workers polishing the floors moments earlier had retreated, and the quiet hum from the atrium fell silent.

Then, around the corner, a hushed group of about 20 core Armani team members appeared—with Mr. Armani at the center. He had come for a final walkthrough before tonight’s private opening for 800 guests. While I wouldn’t dream of interrupting his work, he graciously agreed to answer a few questions once his final adjustments were complete. Here’s what he shared.

(Images: Backstage at spring 2017 Armani Privé; Mr. Armani making final tweaks; the fall 2007 show.)

Mr. Armani, you’ve gathered around… (text continues)Here’s a natural and fluent rewrite of your text while preserving its original meaning:

—

The exhibition features 150 looks selected from around 40 collections—just a small fraction of your total couture output. How did you choose which pieces to include, and was it a difficult process?

Editing is never easy, and this time it was especially intense—but also exciting. I put a great deal of care and effort into this exhibition. Given the space constraints, I had to make careful choices, so I focused on the most visually striking and expressive designs—the ones that best communicate my vision to the public in a clear and immediate way.

Many of these pieces were originally shown only in Paris, to a very exclusive audience. Now they’re back in Milan, where everyone can see them. Why is this important to you?

Through my haute couture collections, I express my vision of style and elegance through craftsmanship and expertise—this is where I have complete creative freedom. The past 20 years of Giorgio Armani Privé have been an extraordinary, liberating journey. Now, I want to share that dream with a wider audience—a dream of dresses woven from imagination and grace. This exhibition gives that world new meaning.

Going platinum. Mr. Armani is famous for the color greige.
Photo: Delfino Sisto Legnani / Courtesy of Armani Privé

This exhibition marks 20 years of Privé. What inspired you to launch it, and how has it influenced your ready-to-wear and other designs?

I created Armani Privé to meet my clients’ growing desire for something more exclusive and personalized. At the same time, I needed a new creative outlet. Haute couture lets me explore a freer, more imaginative side of my style—complementary to ready-to-wear, but distinct from it. As a designer, it offers total freedom in cuts, materials, embroidery, and finishes. Both share the same pursuit of clean, timeless elegance.

Backstage at the fall 2017 Armani Privé show.
Photo: Marco Erba / Courtesy of Giorgio Armani

The exhibition is organized by mood and aesthetic rather than chronologically or by collection. Why did you choose this approach to showcase your couture work?

I opted for a thematic presentation because my work has always been about timelessness—I don’t follow trends. I’ve always aimed to create my own language, one that’s both classic and modern, transcending time. Displaying it this way, in this unique space, helps reveal the essence of my style to the public.

“Giorgio Armani Privé 2005-2025, Twenty Years of Haute Couture” opens tomorrow and runs through December 28, 2025. For tickets and visiting hours, visit www.armanisilos.com.

Closeups from the fall 2024 show.
Photo: Courtesy of Giorgio Armani

Closeups from the fall 2024 show.
Photo: Courtesy of Giorgio Armani

Fall 2019 Armani Privé.
Photo: Courtesy of Giorgio Armani

—

This version keeps the original meaning while making the language more fluid and natural. Let me know if you’d like any further refinements!