Do you ever feel like the world is just too much—maybe especially since last November, mid-January, last week, or even today? Here’s my take: No one needs an excuse to visit the Galapagos. It’s been thriving for millions of years. But if you feel the urge to go, start planning your escape. Your nervous system will thank you.
There are plenty of ways to explore the 18 main islands that make up the 3,000 square miles of the Galapagos. You can stay on one or two islands and take day trips, or join a group tour on a larger boat. For our getaway, we chose the Aqua Mare, a beautifully equipped 50-meter superyacht. We traveled with Francesco Galli Zugaro, founder of Aqua Expeditions; his wife Birgit, the company’s expeditions director; and a small group of fellow travelers. Our trip lasted four nights (though Aqua usually offers seven or 14-day journeys), tracing the path Charles Darwin followed nearly 200 years ago.
Right from the start, as our plane from mainland Ecuador landed at Seymour Airport on Baltra Island, I sensed we were somewhere entirely different—geographically, mentally, even spiritually. Friendly iguanas wandered across the sidewalk as we left the airport and drove to Rancho Il Manzanillo, an open-air restaurant in a giant tortoise reserve. On the way, we passed through a hauntingly beautiful forest of palo santo trees in the Highlands. Our driver carefully navigated the narrow road to avoid the massive tortoises—fines for harming them are steep. Before lunch, we took a stroll in a light misty rain called garua, passing dozens of tortoises walking, resting, and… let’s just say, busy ensuring their species continues.
Then, we boarded the Aqua Mare to truly leave civilization behind.
The yacht itself is remarkable—the first true superyacht experience in the Galapagos. It has just seven wood-paneled cabins that feel more like a boutique hotel than an expedition ship, and a crew of 16. The food, overseen by Francesco, features Nikkei fusion cuisine inspired by local Galapagos and Ecuadorian flavors—dishes you might find at Nobu, but with a regional twist. Yet the real luxury wasn’t the seared scallops or the curated Chilean wines—it was the intimacy. With only eight guests per naturalist guide (half the usual ratio here), we didn’t just observe the islands and their wildlife; it felt like we had it all to ourselves.
Our first morning began with optional but lovely 6:30 am yoga on the sun deck, followed by breakfast as we sailed toward Santiago Island and Sombrero Chino, one of the archipelago’s hidden gems. This semi-protected spot sees fewer visitors because access is limited to certain boats, including the Aqua Mare. The calm waters attract white-tipped reef sharks, needlefish, and, if you’re lucky, the rare Galapagos penguin. We spent the late morning snorkeling—and yes, I’ve snorkeled before, but this was breathtaking. Imagine gliding peacefully through countless schools of vividly colored fish in every shape and size, all completely unbothered by your presence. Our onboard naturalists had already prepared us with a fun slide show about the fish we wouldSoon, we were surrounded by a vibrant cast of marine life—king angelfish, Moorish idols, harlequin wrasse, Mexican hogfish, spotted porcupinefish, and trumpetfish. The list felt almost comically long, but we spotted every one, along with diamond stingrays and spotted eagle rays gliding just beneath us like underwater UFOs.
After disembarking from the Zodiac, the afternoon brought more snorkeling—this time drift snorkeling, where the strong current carried us gently along a rocky coastline. Later, we made a dry landing on Bartolome Island, named after Sir Bartholomew James Sullivan, a friend of Darwin’s on the HMS Beagle. The island’s standout landmark, Pinnacle Rock, rises dramatically from the moon-like terrain and can be seen from miles away. We mustered our energy to climb 374 wooden steps to the summit, where a breathtaking 360-degree view rewarded our effort—the iconic rock spire, surrounding islands, and psychedelic swirls in the barren landscape below. As we left by Zodiac, a handful of penguins perched improbably on the rocks, occasionally diving into the water right in front of us, completely unfazed by our presence.
That evening, after a dinner of roast chicken with pumpkin-ginger purée, a few of us gathered on the Aqua Mare’s aft deck to watch large white-tipped reef sharks circling behind the yacht’s illuminated hull—a mesmerizing, slightly eerie ritual that became our nightly entertainment.
If the trip so far had unfolded in a serene yet exhilarating haze—I’d been exploring one of the world’s most pristine natural wonders, resting in my cabin after each day’s adventures, and enjoying delicious, sociable meals—the next day took it all to another level. In the waters off Isla Seymour Norte, I swam with sea lions. Not just near them, but among them—for a moment, I felt like one of them as we played together.
The only challenge? Not touching them. Our guides had made the rules clear: no contact with the wildlife. With their dog-like faces and graceful underwater moves, the sea lions seemed to invite mischief as they darted around us, spinning and occasionally pausing to stare with what looked like genuine curiosity. I’ve been fortunate to have unforgettable underwater encounters—like diving beside massive humpback whales in Tahiti—but swimming with these sea lions was another surreal experience I’ll never forget.
Later, we landed at Playa las Bachas on Isla Santa Cruz, where thousands of bright red-orange Sally Lightfoot crabs—named, oddly, after a Cuban dancer known for her strategic use of fans—scuttled across volcanic rocks. Marine iguanas basked nearby, radiating reptilian indifference. A Zodiac trip into Black Turtle Cove revealed mangrove forests, mating turtles, and, surprisingly, a lone pink flamingo standing in the shallows like a piece of misplaced Miami kitsch.
Dinner that evening featured tuna steaks and beef tenderloin with grilled Andean corn, accompanied by a Chilean House of Morande red wine. Conversation turned to the famous study of Darwin’s finches by Peter and Rosemary Grant on nearby Daphne Major—a decades-long project detailed in the brilliant book The Beak of the Finch. Francesco shared with me the story of developing Aqua Expeditions and outfitting the Aqua Mare—a fascinating, multi-layered tale involving everything from international geopolitics to…The Aqua Mare yacht is being outfitted with serving plates and espresso cups inspired by botanical drawings and handcrafted by Balinese artisans.
During my time on board, I made a life-changing culinary discovery: the tree tomato. Though I could write pages about this incredible little fruit, I’ll simply say it was the highlight of both breakfast and lunch—the most delicious, fitting, and memorable part of each stunning meal. I longed to try it at dinner or for dessert, but no such luck. Back in New York, my search for tree tomatoes has been unsuccessful so far. Even if I found one, enjoying it in my Brooklyn apartment could never compare to the mind-blowing experience of tasting it at a linen-covered table on the aft deck, surrounded by the Galapagos islands.
On our last full day, we took an afternoon hike on Seymour Norte. We watched blue-footed boobies perform their comical yet touching mating dance, their bright blue feet adding to the spectacle. Above us, magnificent frigate birds—the pirates of the sky—soared effortlessly. As we returned to the Zodiac at sunset, giant sea lions basked in the fading light like enormous, whiskered sandbags.
That evening, we enjoyed the Captain’s Dinner, a tradition on the final night of a voyage where the captain joins passengers and crew for a celebratory feast. The menu featured smoked swordfish with tonnato sauce and udon beef stew, paired with an Emiliana organic syrah. As often happens on the last night of an extraordinary journey, the conversation turned reflective. We were all heartbroken that our time in this magical place was coming to an end.
The next morning, we flew out of Seymour Airport on Baltra, where the same relaxed iguanas still wandered across the sidewalks. But I believe we all left changed. Great places have a way of transforming you, and the Galapagos is no exception. This is especially true for Aqua Mare’s December trip, which promises the incredible sight of giant tortoise hatchlings emerging from their shells and taking their first steps into the wild.
My days and nights there seemed to wash away the clutter of modern life, revealing a world of breathtaking beauty and wonder. It felt richer, more playful, and far less concerned with human affairs than we might imagine. It was, without a doubt, exactly the journey I needed.
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of helpful and clear FAQs about chartering a private superyacht in the Galapagos Islands
General Beginner Questions
1 What exactly does chartering a private superyacht mean
It means you rent the entire yacht along with its crew for an exclusive custom vacation for just you and your guests Its like having a private floating hotel and tour guide
2 Is this only for the superrich
While its a luxury experience it can be more affordable than you think especially when you split the cost among several couples or families It offers a level of privacy flexibility and service that is unparalleled
3 Why the Galapagos Cant I just take a standard cruise
The Galapagos is a unique protected archipelago A private superyacht allows you to escape the fixed itineraries and crowds of larger ships visiting remote sites at your own pace for a more intimate wildlife encounter
4 Whats typically included in the charter price
This varies but a full charter usually includes the yacht full crew all meals nonalcoholic drinks guided excursions use of water toys and sometimes fuel and park fees Always confirm whats included
5 How many people can a superyacht accommodate
It varies widely from intimate yachts for 46 guests to larger vessels that can comfortably host 1216 people The key is that you have the entire boat to yourselves
Planning Practicalities
6 How far in advance do I need to book
For the best yachts and dates its recommended to book at least 912 months in advance especially for peak seasons like Christmas New Years and summer
7 What is the best time of year to go
The Galapagos is a yearround destination December to May offers warmer water and calmer seas while June to November brings cooler nutrientrich water that attracts more marine life but can be choppier
8 Do I need a special visa or permit
You dont need a visa for short tourist stays but everyone must pay the Galapagos National Park entrance fee and obtain a Transit Control Card 20 USD