At Bonnetje’s show—the second of three supported by Copenhagen Fashion Week’s New Talent program—guests were welcomed by elegant displays of pink champagne in curvy glasses, each garnished with maraschino cherries. The rosy hues and delicate shapes hinted at what was to come.

Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Hansen, part of what could be called the Hodakova generation, have built their brand on reimagining—and adding sensuality to—men’s suiting. While they’ll always stay true to that foundation, this season they wanted to explore new territory and introduce more color. Their solution? The opposite of structured tailoring: lingerie. As the designers explained, a slip is “deeply intimate, while a suit acts like armor.” Traditionally hidden beneath clothing, Bonnetje brought undergarments into the spotlight, much like how they often highlight linings and construction materials meant to stay unseen.

A lace-trimmed slip inevitably calls to mind Elizabeth Taylor in BUtterfield 8, and some of the designers’ playful twists on this classic piece also evoke Andy Warhol’s Liz. For Bonnetje to grow commercially, they’ll need to strike a balance between concept and wearability—a strict 50/50 split might not set them apart enough. Like their signature deconstructed suits, these dresses had an instant, accessible charm, though the sheer floral designs risked being almost too delicate.

After the show, the designers shared how they’d refined their initial theme of fragility into the more precise metaphor of glass. (The soundtrack featured shattering glass, and models carried vintage glass objects, some transformed into bags by Matilda Venczel.) “Glass can also be fluid,” they noted. “You can melt it, reshape it, rework it endlessly—just like how we upcycle clothing, turning it into something that can break and be mended again.”