Welcome to The Scoop: a weekly email series where I ask fashion insiders about the week’s top stories. This is a chance for the Vogue Business community to digest and reflect on the latest headlines, getting a little inside information every Friday.

This week’s guest is Martha Mosse, director of the Paul Smith Foundation. The foundation was established in 2020 to help build business resilience for emerging creatives, including fashion designers. In 2024, they launched a specific initiative for fashion designers called the Fashion Residency, a four-and-a-half-year program offering studio spaces and mentoring.

Martha joined the foundation in 2023 from Alexander McQueen’s Sarabande Foundation, where she had worked since its early days. I called her for a chat.

So, Martha, what’s the scoop?

Three designers supported by the Fashion Residency at the Paul Smith Foundation—Paolo Carzana, Karoline Vitto, and Yaku—have created an exclusive T-shirt to be launched in collaboration with Tate Galleries on April 23.

What led to this partnership, and what’s the goal?

These three designers have been developing their brands with our support for over 18 months. We set up this partnership with Tate to give them a chance to creatively respond to art in their own way. It’s also a commercial project—they are being paid to take part. The goal is to guide them through the entire process of bringing a new product to market with a major partner, from the initial commission and review by the Tate team to production at the factory.

Can you explain how the foundation operates? How often do you plan to bring in new designers, and how do you continue working with past participants?

These designers are part of the Fashion Residency, a program set up by the Paul Smith Foundation in partnership with the Mayor of London and Projekt, and supported by British GQ and the City of London Corporation. In short, it’s a business development program where six designers receive a free studio space in London’s Smithfield area for 18 months, along with an 80-hour business skills course. The course covers topics like legal issues, e-commerce marketing, and brand graphics. It’s designed to address all the non-creative aspects of running a business, inspired by Paul Smith himself, who is both a brilliant creative and a savvy businessman.

The first group, which started in 2024, has just moved out of Smithfield. We’ve found them another studio through a new partnership with the Paul Smith Foundation, Culture Mile BID, SET, and Travelodge. Travelodge has invested significantly to build studios in a disused building on Liverpool Street.

So you’re still supporting your first group. When does the program end?

It ends when we run out of buildings, I suppose. If people keep giving me buildings, I’ll keep turning them into studios. Studio space is very hard to find and expensive when you do. This second site does come with an expectation of rent, but it’s vastly reduced—nominal, really, for the quality of space. We want to make sure our support is responsible and helps designers as they grow. Eventually, they’ll have to pay market rates in London, so the transition shouldn’t be too dramatic for their businesses once the rent relief ends.

What’s the number one business skill you’ve had to help new designers build?

The sessions that have been most popular are the legal ones. It’s such a complex and unclear area. We’re very lucky to be working with the law firm Osborne Clarke, who have donated at least 30 hours of lessons.We also provide 60 hours of pro bono support each year for the brands. For example, we have designers like Paolina Russo, who have negotiated major IP contracts with global brands. Osborne Clarke has supplied contract checklists to review before signing an NDA or internship agreement. We also assist with issues like customs. It’s a tailored program where we address each brand’s specific needs.

The BFC recently launched its first strategy under new CEO Laura Weir. What stood out to you in that strategy?
We were very pleased to see the increased emphasis on support. It was also encouraging to note the realistic metrics in the report—for instance, through the Fashion House initiative, they aim for 70% of businesses to remain successful three years after completing the program. It’s always good to see clear goals.

The BFC plays a crucial role in showcasing how the UK supports fashion. A strategy centered on support signals that, as an industry, we are committed to building resilient businesses with practical expectations for the fashion market.

The Paul Smith Foundation exists to enhance the business skills of creatives. If a designer understands how to work with factories, operations, HR, and manufacturing—in addition to being talented—they become much more employable. While everyone we support aims to launch their own brand, that doesn’t rule out consultancy work.

Speaking of creative directors, we’ve seen two more announcements recently: Mark Thomas left Carven after just two seasons, and Courrèges has a new designer. Will this cycle of creative resets ever slow down?
I think it’s part of human nature to seek novelty—and news. Sometimes things change faster than necessary. This isn’t unique to fashion; you see it in politics and sports too.

At the foundation, we encourage starting strong and growing steadily, without rushing to scale too quickly. The designers we support often face high expectations that can be challenging to meet in terms of production or deadlines. It’s about stepping back and asking, “How can I do this responsibly without burning out?” Paul Smith himself is a remarkable example—he still owns 80% of the brand he started 56 years ago, which is rare today.

Are the young designers you work with using AI? If so, how, and how do you advise them regarding the “slop” criticism?
Harri, from our second cohort, uses AI for pattern cutting. Known for their inflatable style, they were looking to speed up their process. Their mentor, Michelle Mahlke, connected them with an expert in Cloud3D, who demonstrated the tool, and now they’re using it. Their designs still involve a lot of handmade elements, but AI supports their pattern cutting.

The term “AI slop” is amusing because, while a lot of AI-generated content is poor, much of it isn’t. If someone uses AI to create bad art, that reflects on them. The bigger issue with AI is copyright law—it’s unclear and not adequately addressed by policymakers. We discuss this regularly with Osborne Clarke. With AI evolving so quickly, it’s hard to keep up. My advice is to stay informed and speak up when something isn’t right.

You can catch up with last week’s Scoop.Hi, I’m Matt Starr from Dream Baby Press.

Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of FAQs about The Scoop With Martha Mosse Whats Next for the Paul Smiths Foundation designed to sound like questions from a real audience

Beginner General Questions

Q What is the Paul Smiths Foundation
A Its a nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving the legacy of the historic Paul Smiths Hotel and supporting the community environment and educational initiatives in the Adirondack region

Q Who is Martha Mosse
A Martha Mosse is a key figure involved with the Foundation often acting as a spokesperson or host for updates like The Scoop She provides insights into the Foundations plans and progress

Q What is The Scoop
A The Scoop is a series of updates often in video or interview format where Martha Mosse shares the latest news developments and future plans for the Paul Smiths Foundation directly with the public

Q Why is the Foundation important
A It works to protect a significant piece of Adirondack history boost the local economy through thoughtful development and fund programs that benefit education and environmental conservation in the area

Q Where is the Paul Smiths Hotel site
A Its located on the shores of Lower St Regis Lake in Paul Smiths New York within the Adirondack Park

Intermediate ActionOriented Questions

Q What are the main goals for the Foundations next phase
A While specific plans evolve common goals include finalizing redevelopment plans for the hotel site increasing fundraising for preservation and scholarships and launching new community programs focused on sustainability and heritage

Q How can I get involved or help
A You can donate directly to the Foundation become a member if they offer tiers volunteer for events or cleanups or simply stay informed and share their mission with others

Q Will the public have access to the hotel property once its redeveloped
A A core principle of the Foundation is to ensure public access to the shoreline and historic elements Plans typically include spaces for the community to enjoy though specific details will be outlined as projects develop

Q Is my donation taxdeductible
A Yes the Paul Smiths Foundation is a 501 nonprofit