While the benefits of retinoids like retinol—firmer, clearer, brighter skin—are well established, what counts as the best retinoid is more open to debate. That’s because retinoid isn’t a single ingredient but an umbrella term for several vitamin A–derived molecules. “Think of retinoids as a family of ingredients that all work by communicating with skin cells and encouraging them to behave in a healthier, more youthful way,” says Azideh Shirazi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in La Jolla, California. “The biggest difference is how directly they get to the active form your skin can use.”Vogue’s Favorite RetinoidsBest Retinol Serum: L’Oréal Paris Revitalift 0.3% Pure Retinol Night Serum, $32Best Retinal Serum: Medik8 Crystal Retinal 6, $87Best Adapalene: La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Acne Treatment, $40Best Tretinoin: Musely The Anti-Aging Cream, $35The active form she’s referring to is retinoic acid. “Typically a prescription, retinoic acid is biologically active and doesn’t have to go through any conversions to work on your skin,” says Brendan Camp, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. These include tretinoin and tazarotene. Adapalene is similar, working directly on the retinoid receptors in skin without any conversions. Retinal, meanwhile, requires one conversion, while retinol calls for two. Those conversions act like speed bumps, slowing down the ingredient’s effect on skin and making it easier to tolerate. “Generally, the fewer steps, the more direct and potentially more powerful the ingredient can be,” says Dr. Shirazi.But for the most part, you aren’t applying retinol on its own in a formulation—or even in your routine. So while it may be tempting to jump to the strongest retinoid out there, “things like the formulation, concentration, and how well your skin tolerates it also make a difference,” Dr. Shirazi says. Moreover, a stronger formula isn’t necessarily a better one, especially if it causes painful side effects like stinging and peeling, which are fairly common with retinoids. Rather, “a retinoid that you can comfortably use consistently will usually serve you better than one that leaves your skin irritated and forces you to stop,” she explains.Before you choose your retinoid, consider what exactly you need. “I usually start by asking my patients three questions: What are we treating? How sensitive is your skin? And what is your experience with retinoids?” says Dr. Shirazi. If you have acne, you may benefit more from adapalene than someone who’s concerned about fine lines. And for those who are new to retinoids or have sensitive skin (or both), an over-the-counter retinol can help you build tolerance without sacrificing your comfort.At the end of the day, “you don’t necessarily need the strongest retinoid,” she says. “You need the one that’s going to give you results without making your skin miserable.” With that, scroll ahead for the types of retinoids for every concern.In This Story:AccordionItemContainerButtonLargeChevronHow We TestedMeet the ExpertsRetinolRetinol has turned into a catch-all name for over-the-counter retinoids—not because it’s accurate, but because it was the first version to become widely used in skin-care products. That said, it’s fairly weak as far as retinoids go. “Retinol is less potent than retinal,” says Dr. Camp. “Skin has to convert retinol to retinal before it turns into retinoic acid.” But because of that, it’s an excellent option for those who’d like to dip their toe into this ingredient category, he says, as well as people with sensitive skin. If that’s the case, “consider sticking with retinols, as opposed to retinals and retinoids, which are stronger,” he says.Save to wishlistSave to wishlistSkinCeuticalsRetinol 0.5$90 BLUEMERCURYDr. Camp likes that this retinol cream comes in three concentrations: 0.3, 0.5, and 1.0. That makes it “appropriate for novices, experienced users, and expert users,” heSave to wishlistSave to wishlistRevision SkincareRetinol Complete 0.5 Serum$118 AMAZONAccording to Dr. Camp, this formula uses time-released retinol, which makes it more effective while reducing irritation. It comes in two strengths (0.5 and 1.0), and he says it “brightens dull skin, smooths uneven texture, and boosts overall radiance.”
Save to wishlistSave to wishlistSkinMedicaRetinol Serum 1.0 Complex$96 $77 (20% off) AMAZON$96 BLUEMERCURYDr. Shirazi recommends this one for sensitive skin or beginners, partly because it contains moisturizers. “It’s a comprehensive formula with retinol, peptides, ceramides, and vitamin E, so the skin gets active ingredients along with ingredients that soothe and hydrate,” she says.
Save to wishlistSave to wishlistL’Oréal ParisRevitalift 0.3% Pure Retinol Night Serum$32 $30 (6% off) AMAZONYou can find excellent retinols at the drugstore too—and they can be powerful. In fact, Dr. Shirazi likes this serum for its strength, noting that it’s ideal “for someone looking for a high-strength formula or someone who has plateaued on their current retinol.”
RetinalRetinal, short for retinaldehyde, is relatively new to skin care and is known for its potency. “Retinal is also called retinaldehyde and is the strongest retinoid available without a prescription because it is more bioavailable than other forms,” says Dr. Camp. (“Bioavailable” means how much of it the skin can actually use—so it can produce better results.) “It requires fewer conversions than retinol to become its active form.” Because of this, it’s a great starting point if your skin can handle it, or a good way to get better results if you’ve been using retinol comfortably for a while.Save to wishlistSave to wishlistMedik8Crystal Retinal 6$87 $72 (17% off) AMAZON$87 MEDIK8Medik8 Crystal Retinal isn’t so much a single product as a system: It comes in six concentrations (from 0.01% to 0.24%) so you can move up to a higher strength as your skin adjusts and results level off.
Save to wishlistSave to wishlistAvèneRetrinal Intensive Multi-Corrective Cream$50 $33 (34% off) AMAZONIdeal for sensitive or redness-prone skin, this French pharmacy favorite pairs a gentle 0.1% retinal concentration with a nourishing blend of squalane and shea butter.
AdapaleneAdapalene is a bit of an outlier among retinoids. Like tretinoin, it’s immediately available in the skin—no conversions needed. But it works a little differently: It’s a synthetic retinoid, for one, and has a different structure and activity than tretinoin, according to Dr. Shirazi. As a result, it “binds to fewer nuclear receptors than retinoic acid,” says Dr. Camp, who notes that it was made specifically for acne-prone skin. Because of this, “it may be better tolerated than retinoic acid, and is available in OTC and prescription strengths,” he says.Save to wishlistSave to wishlistLa Roche-PosayEffaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Acne Treatment$40 $28 (30% off) AMAZONDr. Camp recommends this adapalene cream for oily or acne-prone skin. The 0.1% concentration helps treat blackheads, whiteheads, and other blemishes.
Save to wishlistSave to wishlistDifferinAcne Retinoid Treatment Gel$15 $13 (13% off) AMAZONOne advantage of adapalene is that, as both an acne treatment and a retinoid, it offers multiple benefits. This gel helps clear breakouts as well as the dark spots they can leave behind.
TretinoinTretinoin is retinoic acid. Because of that, “it works more directly,” says Dr. Shirazi. “It’s very well studied for both acne and signs of aging like fine lines, texture, and sun damage.” But it can cause harsh side effects for new users, such as redness, peeling, and dryness—even in those who have used over-the-counter retinoids before.Tretinoin can be especially effective for mature skin, offering the maximum strengthThey can smooth wrinkles and fine lines and even fade age spots, making them worth trying if your skin can tolerate them. However, “keep in mind that mature skin tends to be more dry and that retinols can further exacerbate dryness,” says Dr. Camp. So use them with a good moisturizer and start your prescription slowly.Save to wishlistSave to wishlistMuselyThe Anti-Aging Cream$35 MUSELYMusely’s formula requires a virtual consultation with a medical provider and isn’t available in all states, but this compounded topical cream pairs tretinoin with niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, in concentrations tailored to your needs.
Save to wishlistSave to wishlistAgencyNight Renew$130 AGENCYThis overnight treatment also requires a medical consultation and isn’t available everywhere in the US. It combines tretinoin with complementary ingredients like estriol (for hydration), tranexamic acid (to brighten), and glycerin, depending on your concerns.
Everything You Need to KnowHow We TestedAccordionItemContainerButtonLargeChevronWhen we test and review a product, we take a holistic approach to deliver well-rounded product recommendations. First, we lean on Vogue’s vast network of experts—from board-certified dermatologists to celebrity estheticians—to gain professional acumen on the industry’s standout products, ones these specialists would actually use on their clients. We pair their expertise with our editorial best practices to curate the thoughtful edits you read on our site.As it relates to retinoid creams and serums, we selected the best based on the following characteristics: type of retinoid, other active ingredients, concentration, texture, packaging, finish, and the skin-care concerns they address. To do this, we paired our own personal tests of each formula with expert guidance and reviewer insights to determine which we would recommend to you. Read more about our testing methodology here.Meet the ExpertsAccordionItemContainerButtonLargeChevronAzideh Shirazi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in La Jolla, CABrendan Camp, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York, NY
Frequently Asked Questions
FAQs Retinol Retinal or Tretinoin How to Choose the Best Retinoid for Your Skin
1 What exactly is a retinoid
A retinoid is a form of vitamin A used in skincare It speeds up skin cell turnover boosts collagen and helps with acne fine lines dark spots and rough texture
2 Whats the difference between retinol retinal and tretinoin
Theyre all retinoids but differ in strength and how many steps your skin needs to convert them into the active form
Retinol 2 steps to convert Gentlest available over the counter
Retinal 1 step to convert Stronger than retinol still OTC
Tretinoin Already the active form Strongest prescription only
3 Which one actually works best
Tretinoin works fastest and is backed by the most research Retinal sits in the middle Retinol is the mildest but still effective with consistent use Stronger isnt always better the best one is the one your skin can tolerate
4 Im new to retinoids Where should I start
Start with a lowstrength retinol or an OTC retinal Use it once or twice a week then slowly build up If your skin handles it well for a few months you can move up
5 How do I apply it correctly
At night on clean dry skin Use a peasized amount for your whole face dot it on forehead cheeks and chin then spread thinly Avoid the eyelids corners of the nose and mouth Follow with moisturizer Always wear sunscreen the next morning
6 What is retinization
The adjustment period when your skin gets used to a retinoid You may see peeling redness dryness and breakouts for 26 weeks Its normal and usually passes Moisturizing and starting slowly helps a lot
7 Why is my skin peeling and irritated
Youre likely using too much too often or too strong a product Cut back to once or twice a week apply over moisturizer
