At the peak of high jewelry, the Venetian house of Codognato occupies a unique and elevated space—both strange and sublime. Only true connoisseurs gain access to the jeweler’s unsettling menagerie: enamel skulls with ruby-lit eyes, golden serpents coiled around toads and rats, and miniature coffins dangling like dark medieval charms from antique cameo necklaces. This is the eerie yet magnificent world of Attilio Codognato, the late master of intellectual and mysterious adornment.
Tucked away like a well-kept secret in a narrow alley just steps from the tourist-filled Piazza San Marco, his small workshop feels a world apart from the polished displays of traditional high jewelry. Codognato’s creations aren’t about perfect symmetry, dazzling solitaires, or conventional elegance. Instead, they explore mortality and mischief, blending beauty with a hint of danger and unease. Wearing one of his pieces—steeped in the historic and philosophical symbolism of memento mori—is not just accessorizing, but a statement of allegiance to life’s shadowy, intoxicating side. More like a velvet-draped cabinet of curiosities than a jewelry store, his atelier serves as part art gallery, part reliquary, and a pilgrimage site for a discerning circle of wealthy connoisseurs.
A new book, titled Memento Vivere, highlights the extraordinary work of the late Codognato and the legacy he left after his passing in 2023. That legacy now rests with his heirs: his son Mario, an art curator with an impressive international background, and his daughter Cristina, who runs a psychotherapy practice in London. Together, they are guiding the family heritage forward—not with radical change, but with renewed commitment to their father’s vision.
“Neither of us ever imagined we’d take over one day—our lives and careers were elsewhere,” said Mario Codognato, speaking from the grand floor of his father’s Venetian palazzo, surrounded by an exceptional art collection that includes Old Masters, Surrealists, Warhols, Twomblys, Rauschenbergs, and numerous works by his favorite artist, Duchamp. “But as our father grew older, we began helping him, even with moving the store, and gradually entered a world we had long admired from a distance. Soon we realized it would be a shame to let this story end.”
“Meeting the artisans—true artists in their own right—who had worked with our father for generations made us appreciate how precious this legacy is,” added Cristina. “We are also guided by his extensive archive, which continues to inspire us.” These skilled craftspeople know how to revive old designs and create new ones in the spirit their father championed: every jewel must be unique, a beautiful variation on a theme. “We follow the same principle, enriching the collection with pieces that carry history, like the antique cameos we recently acquired and turned into necklaces,” they explained.
Production remains intentionally small, with one-of-a-kind creations available only at the Venice store. “Our father never gave in to the temptation of expanding elsewhere, and neither will we,” they affirmed. At Codognato, the idea of global retail dominance is unwelcome, and the role of a creative director would be almost unnecessary—the archive, the artisans, and a touch of macabre genius have guided the house brilliantly for generations.
Indeed, the Codognato name has been enchanting Venice and an international clientele since 1866, when 22-year-old Simeone Codognato opened an antique shop near St. Mark’s Square. Catering to aristocratic travelers on the Grand Tour, he soon began crafting jewelry that blended Gothic and Byzantine influences.The Codognato jewelry house has been captivating Venice and an international clientele since 1866, when 22-year-old Simeone Codognato opened an antique shop near St. Mark’s Square. His designs blended Byzantine and Renaissance influences—history and decadence you could wear.
In 1897, his son Attilio took over, drawing inspiration from Etruscan archaeological discoveries and introducing the skull-shaped Vanitas jewels. Dark, opulent, and mesmerizing, these provocative pieces attracted a circle of avant-garde artists and intellectuals. Coco Chanel was a commanding client; Jean Cocteau, Sergei Diaghilev, and Serge Lifar were also enchanted by their haunting charm. After his father’s death in 1958, the younger Attilio Codognato took the helm, continuing a legacy rich with history, philosophical depth, and a touch of glamorous dark humor.
As a psychoanalyst, Cristina Codognato is uniquely positioned to interpret the subconscious symbolism in her father’s creations. She sees his fascination with memento mori imagery as a psychoanalytic symbol: “The skull represents the unconscious awareness of death—something inevitable, yet often repressed. Rituals that incorporate skulls or skeletons allow us to approach death without being overwhelmed by it,” she explained, showing that the family shares an appreciation for unconventional wisdom. “Psychoanalytically, this is a form of exorcism: turning silent fear into symbols, language, dreams, and rituals. From the medieval danse macabre to Baroque vanitas, from Mexico’s Día de los Muertos to Christian relics, the skull tames terror, making it something we can contemplate and even find beautiful.”
Collectors have long been drawn to the unsettling allure of Codognato’s talismans. One of the most devoted is Maria Grazia Chiuri, who hosted the launch of a book about the brand at her family’s palazzo during the Venice Film Festival, alongside her daughter Rachele Regini, who has been captivated by Codognato’s mystique. The event felt like a festive gathering, drawing a glamorous mix of family friends including Julian Schnabel, Anish Kapoor, Dries Van Noten, Juergen Teller, Willem Dafoe, and Francesca Bellettini, all there to celebrate the house’s new chapter.
“What I love most is the craftsmanship: jewels that showcase extraordinary techniques, from the natural cut of the stones to their settings,” said Chiuri, who has centered her work at Dior around a respect for artisanship. “I can recognize that unmistakable handiwork immediately—high jewelry with a couture spirit, always one-of-a-kind. No two pieces are ever the same, thanks to the artisan’s touch, a true goldsmith-artist.”
Chiuri always wears multiple Codognato rings and holds many fond memories of the late jeweler. “I bought my first Codognato piece over 20 years ago. It wasn’t an inheritance or family tradition—it was my own choice,” she recalled. “Every time I came to Venice, my first stop was always his shop, and it still is. I remember once wanting a necklace. Attilio looked me in the eye and said, ‘No, signora, there’s nothing suitable for you right now. But when there is, I’ll call.’ Eight months later, the phone rang: ‘I’ve found your necklace. I’ll send someone to Rome—no obligation, but I think it’s the one.’ And of course, it was.””It was exactly the necklace I had dreamed of.” Chiuri always wears several Codognato rings and holds many fond memories of the late jeweler.
“The funniest part has often been dragging my husband along, with my daughter Rachele as my partner in crime,” she shared. “One morning, right after getting off the train, we rushed straight to the store. We tried on everything and found a necklace we both loved. I said, ‘Let’s buy it together—call it family budgeting.’ I left saying I’d think about it, since I always give myself five minutes to reflect. But by the time we reached the corner, I told Rachele, ‘No way, we need it! Let’s go back.’ Five minutes later, we were back in the shop, happily making the purchase. Sharing the experience made the splurge feel easier, almost like we were creating a future family heirloom.”
Wearing an enameled skull ring or a gold coffin pendant that opens to reveal a reclining skeleton might not be everyone’s idea of investment jewelry. Yet these symbols are less about death and more about life—a bold reminder to live in the moment. After all, death is just a beginning in disguise. Italian writer Angelo Flaccavento, who wrote the book’s introduction, agrees: “Attilio had a sharp sense of humor and loved paradoxes. His attraction to darkness was never gloomy but full of life, never somber but vibrant. He created his own visual language, turning centuries of reflection on life’s fleeting nature into something as decorative and dazzling, yet as lasting, as jewelry.”
The cover of the book, Memento Vivere, published by Marsilio Arte.
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of FAQs about Remember to Live The Striking and Somber Jewelry of Attilio Codognato designed to be helpful for both newcomers and enthusiasts
Beginner General Questions
1 What is Attilio Codognato jewelry
Attilio Codognato is a historic familyrun jewelry house in Venice Italy famous for its unique and dramatic designs that often blend precious materials with dark symbolic themes like skulls snakes and ancient coins
2 What does Remember to Live mean in relation to this jewelry
Remember to Live is a philosophical theme central to their work Its a response to the idea of Memento Mori The jewelry encourages the wearer to embrace life passion and the present moment even while acknowledging mortality
3 Where is the jewelry made and sold
The jewelry is crafted in their workshop and sold primarily at their flagship boutique in Venice It is not widely available in other stores which adds to its exclusivity
4 Is Codognato jewelry expensive
Yes it is considered highend luxury jewelry Pieces are handmade often using 18k gold precious stones and ancient artifacts which commands a high price
Design Style Questions
5 What makes Codognatos style so unique
Its uniqueness comes from the somber or darkly romantic aesthetic They masterfully combine the macabre with vibrant beautiful elements creating pieces that are both edgy and elegant
6 What are some of their most iconic designs
Iconic designs include skull rings with gemstone eyes serpent bracelets and necklaces that coil realistically and pieces incorporating ancient Roman and Byzantine coins set in modern gold mounts
7 Is the jewelry only for a certain type of person
While it has a bold distinctive style it appeals to a wide range of people who appreciate art history and jewelry that tells a story Its for those who want to make a statement beyond traditional luxury pieces
Practical Advanced Questions
8 How can I tell if a piece is authentic
Authentic Codognato jewelry is hallmarked with the Codognato stamp The best guarantee of authenticity is