The Spring 2026 ready-to-wear collections will feature 15 debuts across New York, Milan, and Paris (sorry, London!). This is in addition to the new collections we saw for fall. While the fashion world seems focused on the future, Balmain and Olivier Rousteing are celebrating a milestone: the iconic French house turns 80 this September. Pierre Balmain held his first fashion show in September 1945, and to kick off a season of celebrations, an exhibition is opening at Printemps New York, the French retailer’s new U.S. location.
“Maybe what’s truly new is celebrating 80 years of a fashion house and 15 years with a designer,” said Olivier Rousteing with a smile, speaking from Paris before his trip to New York. Amid so much change and movement, permanence and longevity feel like fresh ideas. Rousteing is now in New York for tonight’s exhibition opening, having been honored yesterday by the Museum at FIT with the 2025 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion.
“I’m excited about being a bit of an outsider right now,” Rousteing continued. “Everyone is focused on change, but what stands out is showing loyalty and love for a house. After nearly 15 years at Balmain, it feels like a rebirth. I’m proud of my last show, which marked the start of a new era for the house. Balmain is resilient.”
Pierre Balmain launched his couture house just after World War II, ahead of a wave of designers who would redefine fashion. The Printemps exhibition highlights these early years. “Balmain hasn’t organized an exhibition in many years,” says Julia Guillon, the house’s archivist and a fashion historian. “There was only one major retrospective in Paris in 1985. This is the first time we’re hosting such a large-scale exhibition.”
But don’t call it a retrospective. “It’s more of a theatrical exhibition,” says Guillon, who has curated around 30 looks from 1945 to today, along with 40 photographs, sketches, and ephemera organized into eight themed displays. The show includes pieces—some never before exhibited—by Pierre Balmain, Erik Mortensen, Oscar de la Renta, Christophe Decarnin, and Rousteing. It explores a range of themes, from the founder’s architectural background to the house’s legacy of embroidery, ornamentation, signature use of gold, and its monogram (introduced in the 1960s and revived by Rousteing in 2020). Also featured is Mr. Balmain’s early “New French Style,” known for sharp tailoring, cinched waists, strong shoulders, and dramatic volumes.Sound familiar? While Dior is often credited with the post-war “New Look,” Guillon argues that Balmain actually led the way. “Balmain was ahead of the New Look and the broader revival of French couture after the war,” she explains. For example, when Pierre Balmain first visited New York in 1946—which explains why the exhibition is debuting in the U.S.—he was invited by cosmetics magnate Helena Rubinstein to design outfits for the launch of a new makeup line. During that trip, he created eight looks, five of which were featured in a Vogue spread on September 15, 1946, under the headline “New look from Paris.” The more you know!
Josephine Baker wore a draped gold lamé gown by Pierre Balmain for her 1951 tour. Singer Juliette Greco also wore a gold lamé sheath dress with a deep neckline, designed by Balmain for her 1952 performance at the April in Paris ball in New York.
The exhibition includes installation views of sections like “A Symphony of Style: Pop Music Icons” and “The Labyrinth Legacy: Balmain’s PB Monogram,” along with sketches and vintage photos of iconic designs such as the “Le Mans” monogram travel ensemble from Balmain’s Spring-Summer 1971 haute couture collection.
“Pierre Balmain had the courage to start a couture house during a very difficult time,” says Rousteing. “That’s something I’ve always admired about him.” He also highlights Balmain’s ambition: “Mr. Balmain was obsessed with going international. He felt Paris and France were too small for him and was determined to bring the Balmain name to the world.” Rousteing believes Balmain’s New French Style emerged from his desire to make a mark in America. “He understood that sometimes, to be appreciated at home, you have to export your style and return stronger.”
The Printemps exhibition will help place Rousteing’s work within the broader history of Balmain. When he started at the house, he was a young unknown; now he’s a recognizable figure to Millennials and Gen Z, though these generations may lack deeper context. “They’ll see the parallels between me and him, as well as between me and Christophe Decarnin, or incredible pieces by Oscar de la Renta, which have been truly inspiring to me,” Rousteing notes.
He also wants to emphasize another aspect of his work: “People sometimes don’t realize that I’m inspired by these elements because I’m so immersed in pop culture and a product of my time,” he says. “But I never want it to be too obvious. His muse was Josephine Baker, just as mine might be Beyoncé. He dressed Brigitte Bardot; I dress Kim Kardashian. He dressed Queen Sirikit of Thailand; I’ve dressed Michelle Obama. My Balmain Army isn’t new—it’s inspired by his love and obsession with empowering women.”
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of helpful FAQs about Olivier Rousteings celebration of Balmains 80th anniversary
General Beginner Questions
Q What is this event celebrating
A Its celebrating the 80th anniversary of the French luxury fashion house Balmain
Q Who is Olivier Rousteing
A He is the current Creative Director of Balmain a role he has held since 2011 He is the one leading this celebration
Q If its an 80year celebration why is it not a retrospective
A Because instead of just looking back at the brands history Rousteing is using the anniversary to launch a new forwardlooking collection and vision for the future of Balmain
Q Where and when is this happening
A The main event was a runway show held in Paris on September 27 2023 during Paris Fashion Week
Deeper Advanced Questions
Q What was the main theme or concept of the show
A The theme was Balmain Army celebrating the diverse community and global family that the brand has built rather than focusing on a single designers legacy
Q How did Rousteing honor the brands past without doing a retrospective
A He incorporated iconic codes and signatures from Balmains history but reimagined them for a modern audience blending them with his own contemporary designs
Q Were any of Pierre Balmains original designs featured
A Not directly The homage was more subtle seen in the inspiration behind new pieceslike updated versions of his classic Jolie Madame suit or the use of his signature fragrance bottle in accessories
Q What made this show particularly significant
A It solidified Rousteings own legacy at the house By choosing to move forward instead of purely backward he demonstrated his confidence in his direction and established his chapter as a vital part of Balmains ongoing story
Q Did any celebrities attend or participate
A Yes the Balmain Army includes many celebrity muses Stars like Naomi Campbell Cindy Crawford and Cher walked the runway symbolizing the brands powerful and inclusive community across generations
Practical Fan Questions