Earlier this year, Maria McManus started working with lace after finding an Irish linen tablecloth made by her Aunt Bibi. “I don’t usually go for floral crochet, but this felt special,” she said at the time. Three seasons later, that discovery has sparked a wave of creative experimentation for the designer.

“It made me rethink sustainability—not just focusing on recycled materials, but seeing there’s more to the story,” she explained during an appointment at her Tribeca home, which often serves as a showroom.

Artisanal French Dentelle de Calais-Caudry lace, certified and protected by the French government, took center stage in her resort collection. It adorned sleek slip dresses made from her favorite Naia Renew fabric and delicate floral skirts. But its influence went further—like in an airy cardigan knitted with three floral patterns inspired by the lace, or even in a pair of organic cotton jeans with intentionally frayed waistbands and pockets. The jeans were still finely finished, lined with her signature grosgrain ribbon, but the raw edges highlighted the handmade craftsmanship.

That hasn’t stopped McManus from exploring new sustainable materials. This season, she introduced a recycled polyester “shearling” used in a bold, glamorous coat, and a biodegradable nylon with a scuba-like texture, turned into long leggings with belt loops for versatility.

“Most nylon comes from fossil fuels—especially coal—and can take centuries to break down,” she explained. “This version is made from fruit polymers, so it degrades like paper or cotton, breaking down in five years in a landfill. The mill was founded by an incredible woman named Regina—everything she does is sustainable in some way.”