Michael Stewart’s long-held dream is finally coming true. His collection, Standing Ground, will debut at the Irish embassy on Monday, the first day of Paris haute couture shows. Last week, the designer from County Clare was in his tiny workshop, tucked away at the art and fashion hub 180 Strand in London. Between working there and running upstairs to oversee fittings of his dramatic, sculptural pieces with his stylist Tallulah Harlech, he found a rare moment to sit and talk.

“I’ve had it in my mind for a very long time that showing in haute couture in Paris is what I wanted to do, but I wouldn’t say it out loud until I actually did it,” Stewart said. “It’s all very detailed work. To make the simplicity come through, you need those elaborate elements to reach that level.” He watched as the laces of a corseted base were tightened, and a smooth, sand-colored suede breastplate was adjusted over it. Harlech and three atelier members circled around, pinning the waist of a draped skirt, weighted down by Stewart’s internal beading channels.

“It’s been a long journey, and everything has been aimed at showing a couture collection from the very beginning,” Stewart shared between fittings. That “beginning” was his poetic concept, inspired by Ireland’s prehistoric standing stones, which predates his graduation collection from the Royal College of Art in 2017. This idea has sparked a non-stop process that, in fashion terms, has taken millennia—or at least 15 years, by his estimate. By now, Stewart sees it less as a theme and more as a way of working that has evolved into sculpted corsetry and flowing drapes. “The standing stones are just a loose reference. None of my work actually looks like a standing stone. It’s just a figure, an image of a powerful ancient figure I imagine, and that’s how I create something new,” he says. “But there are no direct references in the collection—no images, no this or that.”

Inside Stewart’s London atelier.
Photographed by Luc Coiffait

The name Standing Ground also clearly resonates for a designer who has made his mark by stubbornly standing apart from everyone else. For five years, he kept working even though he says no one showed any interest. “And I did beautiful work. The only time I called it couture was jokingly, when I said it was like my bedroom couture—making these really special things in my bedroom,” he recalled. “I was forced to be slow because when nothing happens for you and nothing moves, you need courage and resilience to keep going.”

He was a determined outsider in London until Lulu Kennedy convinced him to take part in two of her Fashion East shows, in spring and fall 2023. The modern elegance and sophistication of Standing Ground stood out immediately, effectively launching Stewart as the first of his London generation to refuse selling to stores and instead work only on custom orders.

Since then, he has been embraced by London’s philanthropic fashion network and by clients. Trino Verkade gave him free studio space at the Sarabande Foundation. He now has subsidized studio space at Mark Wadhwa’s 180 Strand arts complex. And in 2024, Stewart won the inaugural Savoir-Faire award of the LVMH Prize. That endorsement led to his acceptance onto the prestigious couture calendar.

A member of his atelier, at work.
Photographed by Luc Coiffait

A sketch of some elaborate embroidery-to-be.

Plus, his ambition to be a couturier is based on reality, not speculation. At the back of his office, where the machines are, there’s a rack packed with pattern pieces labeled “Private Clients.” “It’s only been private clients from day one,” he says. “I think there’s been a cultural shift, even in the past five years, in what people wear on the red carpet.”It’s become much more accepting of innovative or interesting design.”

Stewart won’t reveal who his clients are, only that they’re international travelers who enjoy supporting lesser-known designers. “I never see photos of my clients wearing my clothes,” he says. And he likes it that way. That’s why he doesn’t care much about publicity or social media. In the two years since winning the LVMH Prize, he’s avoided almost all media attention. “My clients are my best advertisements,” he says wisely. “Some are the first to wear Standing Ground in their regions.” Word of mouth brings more women to his door.

And perhaps to the door of the Irish Embassy in Paris on Monday evening. That will also be the first time most international press gets the chance to meet Stewart and understand his focused, low-key approach.

“I think you should only open your mouth when you have something to say,” he laughs. “I’ve kept my mouth shut for two years. Now I can open it and speak out. And then I’ll go quiet again.”

Spring 2025 Standing Ground
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Spring 2025 Standing Ground
Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Stewart was a determined outsider in London until Lulu Kennedy convinced him to take part in two of her Fashion East shows, in spring and fall 2023.
Photographed by Luc Coiffait

Frequently Asked Questions
Here is a list of FAQs about From County Clare to Haute CoutureMichael Stewart of Standing Ground makes his Paris debut

BeginnerLevel Questions

1 Who is Michael Stewart
Michael Stewart is an Irish fashion designer from County Clare He is the founder of the brand Standing Ground

2 What is Standing Ground
Its a highend fashion label known for its sculptural minimalist designsoften using draping corsetry and luxurious fabrics

3 What does Haute Couture mean
Its a French term for highend custommade clothing To be called Haute Couture a brand must meet strict rules set by the French government like making garments by hand for private clients

4 Where is County Clare
Its a county on the west coast of Ireland famous for the Cliffs of Moher and traditional Irish music

5 What was the Paris debut
It means Michael Stewart showed his first official collection on the Haute Couture schedule in Paris which is the fashion capital of the world

6 Why is this a big deal
Its rare for an Irish designer to be invited to show at Paris Haute Couture Week It puts Irish fashion on a global luxury stage

Intermediate Questions

7 What makes Michael Stewarts designs unique
His designs are known for their clean architectural lines strong silhouettes and a focus on the female form He often uses heavy silk wool crepe and intricate boning

8 How did he go from County Clare to Paris
He studied at the Royal College of Art in London worked for major brands and then founded Standing Ground His craftsmanship and unique style earned him a spot on the official Couture calendar

9 Is Standing Ground a readytowear brand or Couture
It started as readytowear but Michael Stewart is now showing Haute Couture collections in Paris which means each piece is madetomeasure for a specific client

10 What was the theme of his Paris debut collection
The collection often draws from Irish landscapes mythology and the idea of strength and softness Think of draped gowns that feel both heavy and fluid like stone and water