When guests arrived at Drew Henry’s Courrèges debut on Wednesday morning at Palais de Tokyo, they were greeted by a notably stripped-back set. The white box and conceptual backdrop at Carreau du Temple, used by his predecessor Nicolas Di Felice, were gone. “I wanted something very simple for the venue, and for the focus to be on the clothes, on the casting,” Henry told Vogue before the show. The collection was full of color: neon yellow, acid green, tangerine, burgundy, navy and more—a sharp contrast to the more minimalist palette the house has favored in recent years. “Diving into the archives, I was struck by how colorful this brand is,” Henry said. “There’s so much joy, playfulness, but also a strong sense of sentimentality.”

After some difficult years of creative limbo, Courrèges—founded by André Courrèges and his wife Coqueline in 1961—regained momentum during Di Felice’s roughly five-year tenure. (The designer left in March this year.) Di Felice brought a youthful feel to the house, reissuing its iconic vinyl skirts and jackets at more accessible prices to attract aspirational shoppers. But like its competitors, Courrèges has faced headwinds as demand softens and younger consumers cut back on spending. The brand appointed current CEO Marie LeBlanc, formerly of Victoria Beckham, in 2024 to help steer sales.

Henry has a tough job. He wasn’t brought in to save the house; his predecessor was admired for his work and for the distinctly sexy, futuristic minimalism that became known as the brand’s codes. While many insiders shared positive feedback, the post-show chatter painted a balanced picture: some are unsure about the new direction, feeling the loss of Di Felice.

“I think it was a hard collection to step into because we’re not coming from a house that was destroyed,” designer and journalist Edward Buchanan acknowledged after the show. “What happened before was amazing. But it was nice to have a fresh approach and his own approach, and that started with color. It [may bring] a consumer that might not have been interested in Courrèges before, because it’s sitting in a different place.”

Here’s what other industry insiders had to say.

Osama Chabbi, fashion broadcaster and commentator
It was a more wearable Courrèges. I appreciated that he steered away from the futurist aesthetic that Nicolas had drawn from André Courrèges. I liked the first part of the collection—I found it was lifestyle and it was alive. It felt very real life, but then I think it got a little too playful toward the end for my liking. Maybe it’s just a change, and we need to get used to it.

Michaël Amzalag, co-founder, creative agency M/M
It’s a very hard exercise to follow a successful tenure at a house with such restrictive codes. Somehow, the simpler pieces landed more instantly, colors felt fresh. I can see where he’s trying to go. It might take some time to fully establish his own codes, but we should allow him some space.

Anna Trevelyan, stylist
I’m excited by it. I’m looking forward to [Henry’s] tenure at the brand. The color palette was really gorgeous—the deep navy blues into the neon greens with a touch of red. I love those colors that don’t really go together, but really go together. And then I heard that some of the shoes were taken from the archive; they’re not all brand new, which is interesting.

Tiffany Hsu, chief buying and group fashion venture officer, Mytheresa
There’s a compelling mix of sophisticated tailoring and sporty, more instinctive silhouettes that gives the collection a new sense of energy. The customer is still revealing themselves, which makes it all the more intriguing. For now, I’d say: watch this space.

Astrid Boutot, women’s buying and fashion director, The Webster
It felt like a refresh, and it was something very different. Being basedIn Miami, we loved the Art Deco colors—the pastels, the pinks. There was so much to see at the show because there were many layers and jackets, so I’d like to see what’s underneath. We’re excited to see more details. Philippe Pourhashemi, journalist

It was a high-energy debut collection that reimagined Courrèges’ codes in a fresh, contemporary way. I loved Drew Henry’s use of color, texture, and proportion, as well as the shoes and bags, which felt new for the brand. There was also something playful and innocent about the collection, which matches the optimism associated with the brand.

Frequently Asked Questions
Here is a list of FAQs about Watch This Space First Reactions to Drew Henrys Courrges

Beginner Questions

What is Watch This Space
Its a fashion industry event or editorial feature where people share their first reactions to Drew Henrys debut collection for the French fashion house Courrges

Who is Drew Henry
Drew Henry is the designer who took over as creative director of Courrges He is known for bringing a fresh modern perspective to the brand

What is Courrges
Courrges is a historic French fashion brand founded in 1961 by André Courrges Its famous for inventing the space age lookthink white boots miniskirts and futuristic shapes

What does first reactions mean here
It refers to the immediate opinions reviews and social media posts from fashion critics buyers and fans right after seeing Henrys first show or lookbook

Why is this a big deal
Because Courrges is a legendary brand and whenever a new designer takes over the fashion world watches closely to see if they will honor the past or change it completely

Intermediate Questions

What are the main themes in Drew Henrys first Courrges collection
Early reactions point to a mix of the brands original spaceage codesclean lines vinyl and geometric cutswith a younger more streetwearfriendly and genderfluid attitude

How did the fashion press react
Most reviews were positive Critics praised Henry for respecting Courrges heritage while making it feel wearable for today Some noted it felt more club kid than space age

What did social media say
Social media reactions were split Younger fans loved the energy and inclusivity Some traditionalists felt it lost the original brands strict futurism

What are common criticisms of the collection
A few common complaints too much black instead of Courrges signature white lack of the iconic goggles and helmets and a feeling that some pieces looked like generic Y2K revival rather than true Courrges

Did the collection sell well
Early reports say key pieceslike the cropped jackets and vinyl trousers