You never really know a New Yorker until you step inside their apartment. Your most eccentric friend might be living in calm, organized bliss in a stunning rent-controlled brownstone, or they might be using every inch of free space for a fabulous shoe collection that would make even Carrie Bradshaw’s stiletto-stuffed oven jealous.
Enter Jeremyn Lee, a former Thom Browne shoe designer whose piles of Prada would make you think he has a direct line to Miuccia herself. “My favorite brand is definitely Prada,” Lee tells Vogue. “I try to buy one thing from the show collection each season.” Drawn to both women’s satin ballet flats and chunky sneakers depending on the day, Lee finds that Prada’s androgynous charm scratches a particular itch. “I love a contrast, and mixing super-glam things with really simple boyish things,” Lee says. “I think it creates a kind of tension. I also see myself as a sort of fashion collector, so I’m not afraid to lean into a trend.”
For this month’s installment of Closet Case, Jeremyn takes Vogue to his Brooklyn apartment for a behind-the-scenes look at his piles of Prada and his seemingly endless assortment of designer shoes.
What got you hooked on fashion in the first place?
I’ve loved fashion for as long as I can remember. I was obsessed with Barbie as a child and still collect dolls now. My parents always supported my interest in fashion. They sent me to sewing lessons and would take me to the local Barnes & Noble to look at fashion magazines.
What was your first splurge? What was your biggest splurge?
My first splurge was maybe the Prada stripe monkey shirt from spring 2011. I found it at the Prada outlet outside of LA the summer before I started at Parsons in 2013. I remember wearing it on the first day of school. My biggest splurge is probably between my Hermès Kelly Relax and my giant Bottega Veneta clutch. Both of them are so huge and almost impractical to carry, but I don’t regret either.
What do you wear the most in your closet?
My friends always make fun of me, but I’m almost always wearing something from Pro Club—either the cargo sweatpants, hoodies, or basketball shorts. I have a fear of being overdressed. Usually, if I’m gonna wear a loud coat, I’ll layer it over my grey Pro Club hoodie to dress it down.
What do you wear the least in your closet?
I actually have an archive of heels (and some ready-to-wear) that I never wear out, but I buy almost all of them in my size just so I can try them on. I see them as an extension of my closet; I mix most of the heels I have in with my “real” shoes at home. I just got a pair of Louis Vuitton spring 2010 green monogram denim clog boots that are super nutty. A few months ago I posted them on my Instagram as one of my dream shoes. Last month I got a DM on Instagram from a stranger saying they found them at a consignment shop in Taiwan and reverse image searched them on Google and my post came up. She asked if I wanted her to buy them for me since she was coming to NY. I’d never seen a pair of these for sale before.
What piece could you not live without?
I don’t know if I can pick one thing. I have a blue button-up shirt from the Prada spring 2025 men’s show that I wear at least once a week. The one with the wire in the collar and hem. It’s so easy.
What is your most treasured piece?
There are so many. Maybe the top three off the top of my head would be this Prada spring 2015 brown leather coat (the topstitched season); a Prada spring 2013 pink satin coat with appliqué flowers (maybe my favorite Prada womenswear season); and a Celine fall 2015 wool vest bag (my favorite Phoebe Philo season).
What are you struggling to style?
Kind of weird, but I’m always struggling to style sunglasses. I love buying them, but I sometimes feel like they don’t match my mohawk.
What piece can you not bear to part with (even if you know you should)?
From my personal closet, maybe my Thom Browne suits. I worked at Thom Browne for eight years (up until this summer) and have collected soI have a lot of identical suits. I definitely don’t need all of them anymore, but I have so many memories tied to them that I’ll probably keep most, if not all, of them.
Frequently Asked Questions
Here is a list of FAQs about Closet Case Meet Jeremyn Lee the Shoe Designer Building His Own Wild Footwear Archive
Beginner Questions
Who is Jeremyn Lee
He is a shoe designer and creative based in New York He is known for making unconventional sculptural footwear and for collecting rare vintage and avantgarde shoes
What is a footwear archive
It is a personal collection of shoes that documents design history For Jeremyn it is a curated library of his own work and the vintage pieces that inspire him
What makes his shoe designs wild
He uses unusual shapes exaggerated proportions and unexpected materials His shoes often look more like art objects than traditional footwear
Where does he find shoes for his archive
He sources them from vintage shops online marketplaces estate sales and sometimes directly from other designers or collectors
Does he wear all the shoes he collects
No Many pieces are too fragile rare or uncomfortable to wear He treats them as artifacts to study and preserve
Advanced Questions
What is the design philosophy behind his work
He explores the boundary between fashion and sculpture He is interested in how shoes change the way a person moves and how they occupy space
How does he store and preserve his archive
He keeps shoes in a climatecontrolled space away from direct sunlight He uses acidfree tissue paper and custom stands to maintain their shape He also documents each piece with photos and notes
What are common problems when building a footwear archive
Space is the biggest issue Other problems include humidity damage crumbling foam midsoles and losing track of an items history Budget and access to rare pieces are also constant challenges
What practical tips do you have for someone starting their own archive
Start with a clear focus like a specific era or designer Keep detailed records from day one Learn basic conservation methods Buy what you love not just what is valuable
Can you give examples of iconic shoes in his archive
His collection includes early Rick Owens Geobaskets rare Nike Air Max collaborations and vintage platform boots from the 1970s He also has prototypes of his own designs
How does his archive influence his new designs
He studies the construction and materials of old shoes He then reinterprets those ideas in modern ways For example