Alessandro Michele’s designs for Valentino speak their own language—a mix of styles brought to life with cinematic flair and bold embellishments. The craftsmanship—delicate cuts, intricate details, the artistry of the atelier—can sometimes be overshadowed by the drama. But in the stripped-down setting of a resort presentation, free from runway theatrics, the clothes speak plainly. Some pieces stand out, some fade softly, and others simply stay quiet.

Turning 132 looks into a cohesive collection requires not just imagination—as Michele described himself to my colleague Sarah Mower—but an almost obsessive eye for composition. Yet even his maximalist instincts can be reined in. Resort proved that Michele can resist the urge to over-accessorize, though his love for theatricality always lingers in the background.

The lookbook featured models lounging on a pristine pink satin-draped bed—no scandalous undertones, just simple pleasures: brushing hair, nibbling breakfast, doing crosswords, and chatting politely. The soft, blush-toned scene was a far cry from the bold red public restroom setting of the fall show—a quieter, more soothing shift, though its meaning remains open to interpretation. What was unmistakable, however, was the collection’s sheer variety, covering everything from daywear to evening with Michele’s signature eclecticism.

New takes on suiting included fitted, waist-cinched jackets paired with cropped flares or Bermuda shorts as voluminous as skirts. Clean black-and-white trapeze shapes contrasted with flowing plissé gowns in floral or polka-dot prints. Eveningwear had a relaxed elegance, like a chic white one-sleeve blouse paired with a sleek black floor-length skirt.

Michele also revisited Valentino Garavani’s iconic draping, offering a ruched red minidress with gathered bodice cutouts. Bows—another Garavani staple—appeared everywhere, from hems to heeled mules, like playful punctuation. Embellishments ranged from Gobelins-tapestry waistcoats trimmed with feathers to embroidered, sequined showstoppers paired with feathered capelets. Yet these were balanced by understated evening gowns in soft pastels or classic black.

The menswear dialed back the decadence, favoring sharp tailoring with subtle piping or printed edges as the only adornment—though evening looks brought back the opulence with lavishly embroidered robe jackets and floral tapestry waistcoats. Models lounged in fluffy harlequin knits or sweaters embroidered with tiny cats, seemingly lost in peaceful slumber. In a world that’s grown increasingly harsh, who wouldn’t want to escape into a quiet moment of rest? Arrivederci.