Ten years ago, when Vogue Runway launched, we ran a series of articles about the 1990s. Sarah Mower wrote about Helmut Lang’s lasting influence, Lynn Yaeger celebrated grunge, and Luke Leitch shared his memories of the decade’s menswear (with a nod to warehouse-sale Maharishi!). Back in 2015, fashion’s pre-internet years felt new and eye-opening.
At the time, Sarah Mower put it simply: “Just take today’s date, 2015, and subtract 25—the age of today’s rising designers. The result? 1990, of course!” But somewhere between then and now, nostalgia has shifted from a passing trend to a default way of experiencing fashion—and the world. A quick scan of fall 2025 trends reveals both 1980s Working Girl style and early-2000s indie sleaze. Still, the ’90s dominate, and with new creative directors at Gucci, Versace, and Maison Margiela—three brands that peaked in that decade—the ’90s aren’t fading anytime soon.
A look from Alessandro Michele’s debut Gucci women’s collection for fall 2015, when the ’90s revival felt fresh.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com
The fall 1996 Tom Ford for Gucci look that inspired it.
Photo: Condé Nast Archive
Part of this lasting nostalgia stems from the heritage-brand system. If a brand’s identity was built in the ’90s, we’ll keep seeing reinterpretations of that era. But the internet plays a role too—platforms like Pinterest and Tumblr make it easy to revisit the past. As Kurt Andersen wrote in Vanity Fair in 2011, “Now that we have instant universal access to every old image and recorded sound, the future has arrived and it’s all about dreaming of the past.”
This trend isn’t unique to fashion. Across culture, we see sequels leading to prequels, and ’70s-era Fleetwood Mac breakups becoming Broadway musicals and TV miniseries in the 2020s. Fashion has embraced this pattern more openly. In 2018, Versace released re-editions to mark the 20th anniversary of Gianni Versace’s death, drawing from the archives, while Marc Jacobs introduced a Grunge Redux collection—25 years after his groundbreaking grunge show for Perry Ellis.
At Donatella Versace’s spring 2018 show, she directly referenced the archives, focusing on 1991–1995; it was her first time doing so at the brand.
Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Speaking of Marc Jacobs, he was once known for dramatic seasonal shifts—from anti-puritan pilgrims one season to Edie Sedgwick mods the next, and Jane Fonda-in-Klute looks after that. Since returning to fashion post-pandemic, he’s focused on consistency, though of an eclectic, exaggerated kind. He’s not alone. Where change and novelty once drove fashion commentary, we now emphasize DNA and brand codes—the elements that attract and retain customers whose attention is scattered.
Sofia Coppola’s documentary about Marc Jacobs, Marc by Sofia, premieres at the Venice Film Festival later this month. The Nineties x Anna Sui hits bookshelves this fall. Look further, and you’ll find Luca Guadagnino developing an American Psycho project, and maybe you’ve heard about the Oasis reunion tour?
Nostalgia might be here to stay—the internet isn’t going anywhere. But perhaps it’s time to break free from its hold. Helmut Lang, whose influence endures, has now been out of fashion as long as he was in it—a detail that feels meaningful: He moved on. Should we? Could we? As AI permeates our lives, especially online, the future is knocking. It’s going to be strange. Fashion shouldn’t feel familiar.
On today’s episode of…On the Run-Through With Vogue podcast, Mark Holgate, Luke Leitch, and I—all proud members of Generation X—talk about the lasting influence of ’90s trends and argue for a fresh take on futurism. Give it a listen!
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of FAQs about the lasting influence of 90s fashion designed to sound natural and provide clear helpful answers
General Beginner Questions
Q Why is 90s fashion so popular again
A Its a mix of nostalgia for a simpler time and the cyclical nature of trends Many people who grew up then are now adults with spending power and a new generation is discovering the eras unique often rebellious style
Q What exactly defines 90s fashion
A It was a decade of extremes Think minimalism vs grunge Key items include highwaisted jeans crop tops chokers platform shoes and oversized silhouettes
Q Im new to this Whats one easy 90s item to try
A A great starting point is a pair of highwaisted straightleg or slightly flared jeans Theyre incredibly versatile and feel modern when paired with a simple top
Q Wasnt a lot of 90s fashion kind of tacky How do I avoid looking like a costume
A Great point The key is to mix one or two standout 90s pieces with modern basics For example pair an oversized flannel shirt with contemporary skinny jeans and sleek sneakers instead of headtotoe grunge
Styling Practical Tips
Q How can I embrace the trend without buying all new clothes
A Raid your closet for vintage pieces You can also achieve the look by styling modern items in a 90s way like tying a sweater around your waist or tucking a tshirt into highwaisted pants
Q What are some key accessories from the era
A Thin choker necklaces small sunglasses scrunchies minimalist jewelry small bucket hats and simple black platform sandals or boots
Q I love the grunge look but dont want to look messy Any tips
A Focus on the layers and textures rather than distress A wellfitting band tshirt under an unbuttoned flannel shirt with clean darkwash jeans and boots captures the vibe without looking unkempt