Our quest for straight hair has evolved significantly. The first straightener appeared in 1909, but before that, people even used ironing boards to tame frizz. Today, countless tools and products promise smooth locks on demand. However, if you’re seeking a more lasting alternative to frequent flat iron use, consider Japanese hair straightening.
This chemical treatment can simplify your routine by maintaining one hairstyle for months. As someone who grew up in the early 2000s and mid-2010s, I had it done twice yearly until college graduation. Just as a school uniform eliminated outfit stress, my sleek, shiny hair rarely needed styling. But Japanese hair straightening isn’t for everyone, and there are important factors to weigh before committing, as it’s a major decision for your hair.
What is Japanese hair straightening?
According to Dr. Hadley King, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, Japanese hair straightening (or thermal reconditioning) is a chemical process that alters the bonds in your hair to straighten and smooth it. It combines chemicals and heat to break and reform disulfide bonds, permanently changing the hair’s structure until new growth appears.
Though it may sound similar to Brazilian blowouts or keratin treatments, it’s distinct. Dr. Angela J. Lamb, an associate professor at Mount Sinai’s Icahn School of Medicine, notes that Brazilian and keratin options aren’t permanent and allow more styling flexibility.
Celebrity hairstylist Joseph Maine explains, “They’re all smoothing treatments but work differently. Japanese straightening permanently restructures hair through a full chemical process, not a coating. Brazilian blowouts and keratin treatments are semi-permanent, reducing frizz and adding shine that fades over time without making hair pin-straight.”
The Benefits
Dr. Lamb highlights that Japanese hair straightening offers permanent straightness, ideal for those wanting consistently sleek hair with easy maintenance. Maine adds that it provides lasting shine and resists humidity and frizz.
Another advantage is that these treatments typically avoid formaldehyde, using different chemicals to restructure bonds. Still, Maine cautions that it’s a strong process, so choose your salon carefully.
This treatment suits individuals with strong, healthy hair that hasn’t been heavily bleached or chemically treated, and who prefer a steady straight style. If you enjoy switching between straight and curly looks, Maine suggests reconsidering this permanent option.
The Downsides
Be aware of several drawbacks. Dr. King warns that the process can weaken or dry hair, especially if it’s already fragile or has undergone dyeing or bleaching. It’s also costly, time-consuming, and demands strict aftercare and touch-ups, so assess your commitment level. Additionally, it limits styling versatility, as hair won’t hold waves or curls.
Japanese hair straightening isn’t suitable for everyone.Everyone. According to Maine, very fine hair or hair that has been heavily bleached or lightened should avoid such a strong chemical process. King agrees and adds that if your hair is already fragile from repeated chemical treatments, it’s best to skip this.
The Treatment
Be prepared: Japanese hair straightening is a lengthy process. Experts say it can take many hours, depending on your hair’s length and natural wave or curl pattern. First, your hair will be washed with a clarifying shampoo, and then the stylist will apply a chemical straightening solution.
Maine explains that this solution breaks down the hair’s internal bonds to begin straightening. It stays on your hair for a set time (which varies based on length and texture) before being rinsed out. Next, your stylist will blow-dry and flat-iron your hair in small sections to lock in the new straight shape. Dr. King notes that a neutralizing solution is then applied to rebond the hair and set the style, followed by another rinse and styling.
Post-Care
Caring for your hair after the treatment is straightforward. Maine advises not tying, bending, or washing your hair for at least 48 hours. After that, use gentle, sulfate-free shampoos.
Dr. Lamb recommends minimizing heat styling (and using a heat protectant when you do), while Maine suggests avoiding overlapping chemical treatments like bleaching or perming to maintain hair health. It’s also a good idea to use a hydrating mask or leave-in conditioner, as the treatment can make hair more porous or dry. One final tip: “Regular trims and conditioning treatments keep hair healthy and glossy,” he says.
How long do results last?
As mentioned, Japanese hair straightening is permanent—but only on the treated hair. Maine explains that new growth will not be as straight as the permanently straightened sections. Therefore, touch-ups are recommended every six to 12 months, depending on how fast your hair grows and how noticeable the texture difference becomes.
How much does this treatment cost?
While costs can vary, Japanese hair straightening is generally expensive. “It depends on the salon, stylist’s skill, location, and hair length or thickness,” says Maine. “Typically, it ranges from $400 to $800 or more due to the time and precision required.”
So if you have the budget, patience, and—most importantly—a desire for pin-straight hair, ask your stylist if this is right for you. Though I haven’t had my hair chemically straightened in over a decade, I sometimes miss the simplicity of having it already styled. What an easier time that was.
Curious about a beauty or wellness trend? Let us know! Email Vogue’s senior beauty and wellness editor at beauty@vogue.com.
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a helpful and clear list of FAQs about Japanese Hair Straightening designed to sound like questions from a real person
Japanese Hair Straightening Your Complete Guide
The Basics What Is It
1 What is Japanese Hair Straightening
Its a professional chemical treatment that permanently breaks and restructures your hairs natural bonds to make it pinstraight The results last until your natural hair grows out
2 How is it different from a Brazilian Blowout or keratin treatment
Japanese Hair Straightening is permanent and makes your hair completely straight Brazilian and keratin treatments are semipermanent often just smoothing frizz and adding shine while preserving some of your hairs natural wave
3 Is it really permanent
Yes for the hair that is treated It will not revert to its original curly or wavy state However as your new hair grows in from the roots you will need a touchup every 610 months to straighten the new growth
The Process What to Expect
4 How long does the treatment take
Its a lengthy process typically taking between 3 to 6 hours depending on the length and thickness of your hair
5 Does it damage your hair
It is a strong chemical process so it can cause damage if not done correctly by a skilled professional Its crucial that your stylist assesses your hairs health beforehand
6 Does the treatment hurt or burn
You might feel a warm tingly sensation on your scalp but it shouldnt be painful Always tell your stylist immediately if you feel any significant discomfort
7 What does my hair look like right after the treatment
Your hair will be very straight but it can sometimes feel a bit flat or too perfect This settles down after the first or second wash
Candidacy Preparation
8 Is Japanese Hair Straightening good for all hair types
It works best on thick coarse curly or frizzy hair Its generally not recommended for fine fragile bleached or already severely damaged hair
9 Can I get it if I have colortreated hair
Its possible but timing is critical You usually need to do the color