In the center of designer Kota Gushiken’s Tokyo showroom hangs a button-up shirt that turns into a knitted sweater halfway down. He calls this style the “Shirmper.” It’s just one example of the strangely captivating innovation this Japanese designer uses to create quirky knitwear that’s winning fans around the world.
“Seven years ago, if I said knitwear, people would think it was just normal knitted jumpers,” says Gushiken. “But over the past 10 seasons I’ve been running the brand, I think our clients now see that knitwear can be incredibly free. People realize, oh, there’s a whole knitwear universe.”
Gushiken isn’t alone. Over the past few years, a growing number of designers have made knitwear the heart of their creative work. They’re challenging old ideas about knitwear and meeting demand for pieces that blend craftsmanship with technical innovation.
Kota Gushiken SS27 lookbook.
Photo: Courtesy of Kota Gushiken
“A structural shift is happening in luxury retail, as shoppers swap logos and short-lived trends for tactile, long-lasting craftsmanship,” says Krista Corrigan, an analyst at retail intelligence platform EDITED. “The value in knitwear is clear, driven by hand-knitted construction, zero-waste engineering, and high-quality materials.”
According to EDITED, full-price sellouts for sweaters and cardigans are up year-on-year for major luxury brands. In 2026, knitwear sellouts rose 40% at Loro Piana and 23% at Brunello Cucinelli. The knitwear category also saw strong gains at houses like Dior and Gucci, while demand for premium yarns like cashmere has surged, now making up a third of knitwear sellouts across luxury retailers.
“There’s definitely a rise in interest around knitwear in general right now, both traditional and experimental,” says Nick Tran, head of buying and merchandising for Dover Street Market Paris. He points to brands like Jake’s, August Barron, and Doublet, which are transforming traditional knitwear ideas with unexpected colors and shapes.
Other recent standouts include Bangkok-based Nong Rak, Tokyo-based Pillings, a range of London brands like Raquel de Carvalho, Chet Lo, and Pauline Dujancourt, and smaller independent labels like Pickles Knitwear. “There’s really a wide range of choices for customers,” says Tran.
Pauline Dujancourt Fall 2026.
Photo: Getty Images
Chet Lo Fall 2026.
Photo: Umberto Fratini/ Gorunway.com
This boom brings both opportunities and challenges. Advances in knitting technology and lower production minimums, along with a growing appreciation for authentic, “human” clothing, are opening doors for a new generation of designers. But success takes more than making cozy sweaters: today’s knitwear brands need to stand out in an increasingly crowded market while dealing with rising material costs, a warming climate, and a shortage of skilled workers.
“You can’t fake it”
As consumers pay more attention to fabric, knitwear brands are well-positioned to fuel demand. “We’re seeing a meaningful shift in the role material and fiber play in purchase decisions,” says Laura Armstrong, head of demand creation at Woolmark. “In our consumer research, fabric composition has moved from the fifth most important purchase factor to the third, which suggests consumers are paying much closer attention to what products are made from.”
The appeal is simple. “I think it’s because it’s honest, you know? It’s hard to hide bad knitwear—you actually can’t fake it,” says Cecile Tulkens, a London-based designer known for her gansey knits inspired by traditional fisherman styles. Her sweaters, which sell for £470, have a cropped fit with the brand’s logo knitted across the chest in pointelle. It’s Tulkens’s way of making a sweater that feels both modern and historically accurate, but “without looking like a Victorian rat catcher.” They’ve been hugely popular, with Tulkens doublingShe has grown her wholesale accounts to 17 over the past few seasons.
Photo: Courtesy of Cecile Tulkens
Tran believes that after the athleisure boom of the last decade—which brought a lot of synthetic fabrics—the old-fashioned appeal of knitwear feels fresh and worth the price. “After hoodies and sweatshirts became so popular, knitwear offers better value and helps you feel more dressed up while still being easy to wear,” he says. He adds that knitwear can be a better deal than ready-to-wear clothing. “As everything gets more expensive, knitwear pricing still sits at a point where you can more easily justify the cost, whether it’s because of 100% natural materials like wool and cashmere, or the craftsmanship and techniques used to make the garment.”
Cutting through the noise
“Knitwear has become one of the most exciting areas for innovation in fashion,” says Armstrong. She highlights advances like seamless knitting, Wholegarment technology (which “prints” knits in 3D), and advanced flat-bed machines. The last two give designers more creative freedom. “They can create complex shapes, textures, and structures with fewer seams, more precision, and often less waste.”
Lower barriers to entry are also drawing designers to knitwear. “When I started in the industry over 20 years ago, a 300-piece minimum order quantity was considered very low. Now, 50 to 100 pieces is much more common,” says Kate Knight, a knitwear consultant based in Bordeaux. But with lower barriers, “the challenge is really standing out and having a compelling product, brand story, and all that,” she adds.
New brands need more than just nice knitwear and a sustainable supply chain to attract attention. Knight points to Knorts, a US brand worn by celebrities like Bad Bunny and Cardi B, which stands out by knitting denim into stretchy pants and flares. London-based Pickles Knitwear combines craftsmanship with humor, making sweaters with intarsia slogans like “Made in Ireland,” “Guinness is good for you,” and “Future MILF.” Ohmu, founded in 2021 by Danish designer Lin Routhe, uses Icelandic wool, which has a wiry feel that becomes fuzzier with wear. “The wool is exposed to an arctic climate, so it has long fibers,” explains Routhe, who lines the sweaters to make them more comfortable.
Pillings, a Tokyo label shortlisted for last year’s LVMH Prize and recently picked up by Dover Street Market London, is popular for its hand-knits made by a community of knitters in Kobe called Atelier K’s. Founder Ryota Murakami estimates that over 100 hand-knitters have worked for his brand. “The initial ideas come from the Pillings team, but throughout the making process, we actively include the ideas, experience, and creativity of the knitters themselves,” he says of the partnership. “Rather than just hiring them, we develop each garment together through an ongoing exchange of ideas.”
Photo: Tenkou Ma / Courtesy of Pillings
Collaborations are another way to stand out. Tulkens often works with heritage knitwear label John Smedley, customizing their polo shirts by pinning them with jewelry from London brand CC Steading to create an asymmetrical shape. For John Smedley, it’s a win-win partnership. “Designers bring new ideas, different customer perspectives, and creative ambition,” says CEO Jess McGuire-Dudley. “We contribute manufacturing expertise, product engineering, and an understanding of how to turn those ideas into garments that are commercially viable while staying true to the designer’s vision.”
By working with designers like Tulkens, John Smedley hopes to show that British knitwear manufacturing is helping shape the future of luxury knitwear. “For me, that’s exactly what modern British manufacturing should represent.”,” says McGuire-Dudley. “It’s not just about making clothes—it’s about creating a space where traditional craftsmanship and new design talent can inspire each other to grow.”
Obstacles ahead
Even though knitting is becoming more innovative and technology is improving, new challenges have appeared. Italian yarn, which is considered the best in the industry, has gotten more expensive in recent years. This is made worse by economic and political issues, from the weak yen to Brexit. “People are surprised we still use Italian yarns—they say, ‘Wow, good for you,’” says Tulkens. “And I’m like, yes, I know—it’s actually a nightmare.”
There are also staffing shortages. Knight points out a lack of skilled knitwear workers, including programmers (“who have to program each size separately”) and linkers (“who do the specialized ‘sewing’ of knitwear”), as a major problem. For brands that rely on hand-knitters, an aging workforce is a real worry. “Finding ways to pass these skills on to the next generation has become one of our main concerns,” says Pillings’s Murakami. “I think more people need to know about hand-knitting as a profession, and it should become a career people truly want to pursue.” He hopes his work with Pillings will spark more interest in knitting as a viable job.
Then there’s the weather. Since knitwear is traditionally better suited for fall and winter, hotter summers are putting more pressure on designers. “It’s a real challenge,” says Murakami. “As summers get hotter every year, I feel the whole idea of ‘winter clothing’ is slowly changing.” Garments that once felt completely natural to make, like chunky knits, are becoming harder to justify.
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At the same time, designers are finding more creative freedom when designing for hot weather. “In winter, your goal is to keep people warm,” says Tulkens. “I call it the undercurrent of menace, because you have to navigate winter that way. But in summer, I usually have more fun choosing colors and fibers since it’s just one layer.”
Gushiken is betting on thin, gauzy knits to attract buyers for the 2027 summer season. Some have spaces under the armpits for extra ventilation, which can also be used as alternative armholes to change the silhouette. “I now find myself considering ideas and perspectives I probably wouldn’t have explored before,” he says. “In that sense, the changing climate has also opened up new creative possibilities.”
Frequently Asked Questions
Here is a list of FAQs about the Inside the Neo Knitwear Boom topic covering definitions benefits common problems and practical tips
BeginnerLevel Questions
1 What exactly is Neo Knitwear
Its a new wave of modern knitting that mixes hightech materials with futuristic designs Think of it as the bridge between traditional handknitting and scifi fashion
2 Why is Neo Knitwear suddenly so popular
Three reasons its incredibly comfortable it creates zero fabric waste and brands can make complex shapes that are impossible with regular sewing
3 Is Neo Knitwear just for sweaters
No Its used for everythingsneakers dresses blazers and even furniture The knit technology allows for seamless onepiece construction
4 How is Neo Knitwear different from a regular sweater
Regular sweaters are cut from fabric and sewn together Neo Knitwear is printed by a computercontrolled machine into one complete piece It fits like a second skin and often has special properties like moisturewicking or temperature regulation
5 Is it expensive
It can be Highend brands charge a premium for the design and tech However massmarket brands are making it affordable because the machines are fast and waste less material
Advanced Practical Questions
6 What are the main benefits for the environment
Zero waste The machine knits only the exact shape neededno leftover fabric scraps
Local production Complex garments can be made in one factory reducing shipping
Recyclability Many Neo Knits use single materials that are easier to recycle than mixedfabric clothes
7 What are the downsides or common problems
Pilling Some synthetic Neo Knits pill faster than traditional wool
Delicate care Many are machinewashable but can snag on zippers or jewelry
Repair difficulty A hole in a seamless knit is hard to fixyou often need a specialist or the original machine code