Elegance and timeless style came together at Brunello Cucinelli’s Milan presentation this afternoon. Thoughtful details like a full spread of Italy’s national newspapers—all eight of them—placed by the buffet set the tone. The classicism, meanwhile, was woven into the clothes themselves, where smart seasonal updates refreshed the foundations of tailored menswear.

Many looks walked the line between casual and formal, often built around printed T-shirts. These featured vintage English newspaper clippings about the arrival of the Parthenon sculptures—known as the Elgin Marbles—at the British Museum.

The reference wasn’t political but rather a nod to how classical influences transcend cultures. That idea carried through in the clothes layered over these tees. As always, Cucinelli started with timeless pieces, then reimagined them for today. This season, the approach was relaxed, airy, and elongated.

Jackets skimmed low over the hips, while high-waisted, double-pleated trousers rose nearly to the navel. Collars widened to keep proportions balanced. While some looks stuck to head-to-toe shades (navy stood out), others played with bold contrasts—like an apricot linen blazer over gray separates or a coral knit under a pale cotton suit. One striking combination paired dark brown with navy.

Cucinelli cited two key inspirations: classic tailoring and the 1980s, when volume pushed the boundaries of structure. The mix of T-shirts, knit polos, and tie-printed shirting under tailored layers nodded to that era’s relaxed reinvention of formality.

Modern fabrics made the difference—like a white linen blouson over pleated pants that weighed just 80 grams. Blue suede shoes, a cross between sneakers and loafers, were flexible enough to fold yet sturdy on foot. Even denim got the pleated treatment, and surprisingly, it worked.

With wearability at its core, Cucinelli’s designs embody what Italo Calvino said of classics: they never stop speaking. These clothes, too, feel eternally relevant.