The Comme des Garçons show has become a magnet for young fashion enthusiasts, students, and fans of Rei Kawakubo, who gather outside the venue, buzzing with excitement. The energy outside was palpable, but it was soon overtaken by the powerful voices of Bulgarian folk singers, setting the tone for a collection that carried a deeper message. Kawakubo’s husband, Adrian Joffe, later explained the symbolism behind the show: “small can be mighty.” The collection was a critique of the overwhelming dominance of big business, global systems, and corporate culture, instead celebrating the small, intimate, and meaningful moments that happen everywhere. But “a little bit tired” was an understatement for what unfolded on the runway. This season’s show felt like a bold protest—against patriarchy, the fashion system, and the rigid structures of power. It began with a striking statement: menswear fabrics like pinstripes, checks, and gray flannels were transformed into grotesque, inhuman shapes, symbolizing the oppressive uniforms of corporate life.

But then, the narrative shifted. Layers of femininity began to emerge—red and purple cocktail dresses, a voluminous velvet crinoline, and finally, cascading layers of pink, red, and watermelon satin that resembled a couture armored vehicle. The soundtrack, featuring Bulgarian folk singers, added another layer of meaning. As Joffe explained, the music represented “workers in the fields, harvest, families, getting things done together.” This imagery resonated deeply with Kawakubo’s vision of independence and collective effort in a world dominated by mega-corporations. It also reflected the ethos of Dover Street Market, the platform Kawakubo and Joffe created to support emerging, independent designers who might otherwise be overlooked in today’s fashion landscape.

Outside the show, the adoration for Kawakubo was undeniable. She has long been a prophetic voice in fashion, warning of its impending crises. But now, as those crises unfold, her work offers a counterpoint: a celebration of the collective power of the small, the playful, and the feminine. This season’s collection was a visual rorschach test, with net ruffles, garlands, tutus, and conceptual bows gradually taking over, symbolizing a triumph of lightness, joy, and resilience. It was a reminder that even in the face of overwhelming systems, there is hope in creativity, collaboration, and the beauty of the small.