Marlon James was born in Kingston, Jamaica. He set his 2015 Booker Prize–winning novel, A Brief History of Seven Killings, about the assassination attempt on Bob Marley, on the island, as well as his HBO detective series, Get Millie Black. (His mother worked in law enforcement, though he has said the show isn’t about her.) He clearly has a deep love for his homeland, which he has described as “the Texas of the Caribbean” for its bold, confident style.

His latest novel, The Disappearers (out today), is also set in Jamaica. Recently praised by The New York Times‘s Dwight Garner as “the book of the decade, if not the century,” this 600-page work has been compared to Salman Rushdie’s Midnight’s Children and Toni Morrison’s Song of Solomon. Longlisted for the Booker Prize, it tells the story of eight gay men living in Jamaica. His Kingston, both in the book and in his recommendations below, is a place of many layers. All his favorite spots are in the capital city, unless noted otherwise.

Marlon James
photo: Mark Seliger

For breakfast: First things first—when in Jamaica, do as the Jamaicans do and call breakfast “brekkie.” Triple T’z, which sounds like an off-track horse racing betting shop, is a secret fiercely guarded by locals, so put up with the suspicious looks and grab a table. The decor looks like someone scoured every old house in Kingston, took all the interesting bits, and tacked them to the walls. The best Jamaican food tastes like Grandma just cooked it, which is why I suspect an army of grandmothers runs the kitchen. Try ackee and corned pork (not salt fish) or mackerel rundown (spicy fish stewed in coconut milk). Accept that you’ll put on some pounds and order fried dumplings with everything.

For a caffeine fix: Susie’s, which is open both early and late. Ask for whatever coffee or tea you like, exactly the way you like it. Better yet, ask for three plantain tarts—two for yourself and one that will cause you great pain to give away.

Late-night diner/food truck: If you’re up at 1 a.m., head to Liguanea if you’re posh; Red Hills Road if you’re not. Swerve off the road as soon as you see smoke. Jamaica’s worst-kept secret is jerk chicken, but our best-kept secret is pan chicken. No, they’re not the same thing. Jerk chicken is slow-roasted over pimento wood. Pan chicken is smoky barbecue, dressed in homemade sauce and served between two slices of freshly baked hard dough bread. No, you don’t take it with you. Yes, you’ll stand right there on the side of the street, eat with your hands, and leave smelling like smoke.

To see art: Olympia Gallery. Open to the public since 1974, this is the largest private exhibition space on the island. It’s an octagon in the same way the Guggenheim is a spiral, and it’s possibly the best place to see where Jamaican art has come from and where it’s going at the same time.

White River in Ocho Rios
photo: Getty

Tourist trap I love anyway: Dunn’s River Falls [in Ocho Rios]. This has been a tourist trap ever since it appeared in Doctor No. You’ll run into every kind of tourist you’ve spent your life trying to avoid. But then you get there, and the lush music of the river lures you in like a siren. The person in front of you will be wearing a “Jamaican Me Crazy” T-shirt. You’ll join the conga line to the top of the river anyway.

Nature escape: Castleton Gardens in St. Mary. Fifteen acres, 4,000 species of plants, and open every day at 5:30 a.m. A place to lose yourself, find yourself, then baptize yourself in the Wag Water River.

For peace and quiet: See Castleton Gardens.

Best way to get around town: You’ll feel the urge to take a Robot Taxi, to be one with the locals. Please don’t, unless you’re the thrill-seeking, laugh-in-the-face-of-death type who wants to drive off a cliff. You’ll also feel the urge to avoid drivers with names like Bad Habit (an actual person) and Epic Hands (another actual person). Hire these drivers immediately (the sweetest, mostThe most harmful people you’ll ever come across—always ask for the long route to wherever you’re headed.

Best view: Moonrise over Firefly [in St. Mary], Noel Coward’s old house, still exactly as it was when he passed away. A statue of Coward sits in the garden, waiting for that same view. Sunrise gets all the attention, but a moonrise will leave you breathless with awe.

Dunn River Falls
photo: Getty

Cheap date: Two patties, coconut water, and ice cream at Devon House. Just be ready to wade through the crowds of Kingstonians who had the same idea.

Best place for people watching: Tuesday Service. It’s not a church, but it can feel spiritual. The next wave of reggae starts here. What began as a jam session among super-talented friends has turned into Kingston’s hottest music event, with frequent visits from celebrities and determined newcomers about to take their first shot. The vibe is always relaxed, the music is always fresh, and the mix of people is so diverse you’ll think you’ve stepped into a UNICEF video.

Secret spot only locals know: Jamaica’s white-sand beaches have elegant names like Boscobel [in St. Mary]. Black-sand beaches have quirky names like Wickie Wackie [in St. Andrew]. White-sand beaches are calm; black-sand ones are wild. On white sand, water gently slips between your toes. On black sand, the water might just carry you away. Spending time on black sand reminds you that, billions of years ago, this island was a volcano—all fire, ash, and rock. What this means is that if you’re on a black-sand beach, you’re probably alone. So it can easily become your own private nude beach. It’s a party with just your friends. It’s a hidden gem tourists don’t know about. It’s a place where morning rockers, afternoon surfers, and midnight ravers all come together. The one thing it will never be is crowded, which makes it absolutely perfect.

Save to wishlist
Save to wishlist

The Disappearers: A Novel
$31 Amazon

Frequently Asked Questions
Here is a list of FAQs about Marlon James and his budgetfriendly date advice written in a natural conversational tone

General Background

1 Wait is Marlon James actually the author of The Book of the Century
No thats a mixup Marlon James is a famous Jamaican author but hes best known for writing A Brief History of Seven Killings and the Dark Star trilogy There isnt a book called The Book of the Century by him

2 So if he didnt write that book why is he giving dating advice
Thats a great question While hes mainly a novelist authors often get asked about all sorts of things in interviews Its likely he was asked for his personal opinion on frugal living or dating in a recent podcast or interview and his answer was practical and downtoearth

3 Is Marlon James an expert on dating or finance
Not professionally Hes an expert on storytelling and culture However his advice on a budgetfriendly date is probably based on his own experiences and his belief that creativity and conversation matter more than spending a lot of money

The Date Advice Itself

4 What is the core of his budgetfriendly date advice
The main idea is to focus on experiences that encourage talking and connection rather than expensive performances or fancy dinners where you just sit and stare at each other He suggests activities that are interactive and lowcost

5 Can you give me a specific example of what he suggests
A common suggestion that fits his style is going to a local independent bookstore or a library You can browse different sections pick out books that look interesting and then share your picks with each other Its a free or very cheap activity that instantly gives you a window into how the other person thinks

6 What if were not bookworms Does the advice still work
Absolutely The principle is to find a third spacea place that isnt your living room or a restaurant Think of places like a flea market a free museum on a certain day a record store or even a scenic public park for a walk The goal is to have a shared activity to react to