Luca de Meo, the Milan-born CEO of Kering Group, has spent the past few years transforming the fortunes of France’s top automotive company through his “Renaulution” strategy. Now, stepping into the luxury sector, his new challenge will be to “Guccelerate” performance and spark a “Kerinaissance.” Naturally, this role calls for a wardrobe upgrade—and what better choice than tailoring from Kering’s own brands?

Only three labels in the Kering portfolio have a true heritage in men’s suiting. While Saint Laurent offers sharp-shouldered, flared silhouettes and Alexander McQueen delivers intricate elegance, Brioni stands out as the clear choice for the new CEO’s signature look.

This morning’s presentation at the Palazzo Stampa Soncino showcased Brioni’s mastery of menswear. As guests arrived, artisans from the brand’s 66-year-old tailoring workshop in Penne, Abruzzo, demonstrated their craft—hand-stitching buttonholes, shaping a tuxedo’s shoulders, and sculpting ultra-thin silk-cashmere fabric with precision. One tailor, who joined Brioni’s school as a teenager, has been perfecting his craft there for 18 years.

The next room highlighted Brioni’s industry-leading vertical integration. Creative director Norbert Stumpfl has spent seven years refining the brand’s classic sophistication for today’s high-powered clientele. This season’s collection balanced subtlety and statement: unlined nubuck jackets paired with crisp cotton trousers featuring discreet elastic panels, while double-breasted suits in solaro-weave cashmere silk came with matching shirts for an effortlessly polished look. “He just puts it on and looks stunning,” Stumpfl noted, catering to clients who prefer simplicity.

A standout was a navy suit in an ultra-light Super 220 wool, developed exclusively for Brioni by Dormeuil—so soft it felt almost weightless. It also looked like the perfect CEO uniform.

Stumpfl admitted that conveying the luxury of such refined materials is tough. “You have to feel it, ideally wear it, to truly understand,” he said. The collection also included relaxed pieces like silk-linen shirt jackets with solaro baseball caps and suede loafers, as well as a striking workwear jacket in unlined brown suede over raw Japanese denim. Crocodile blousons and a seersucker set in ceramic blue added bold texture.

Eveningwear featured a matte-finish pink silk suit and a black jacket crafted from thousands of ribbon strips, creating a tactile effect like flipping through a finely printed book. The finale? A gold-embroidered jacket depicting Brioni’s Penne factory from above—a strong contender for the CEO’s wardrobe once his next mission, “Re-Balenciaga,” is complete. Handled right, Brioni could be at the heart of that transformation.