Olivier Rousteing may still be under 40, but he’s already the third longest-serving non-founder creative director in luxury ready-to-wear fashion—trailing only Hermès menswear’s enduring Véronique Nichanian and Max Mara’s powerhouse Ian Griffiths. Even as fashion embraces its latest dramatic phase, Rousteing’s blend of seasoned experience and youthful energy gives him a balanced, practical perspective.

Speaking from his office, he explained: “A designer must evolve by reinventing themselves. It’s not just about a fashion house growing tired of a designer—the designer should feel that same restlessness if they aren’t pushing boundaries. You keep your core identity, but you create entirely new expressions of it.”

At Balmain, Rousteing remains both loyal to the brand and dedicated to constant innovation. The resort collection’s photography reflected his fresh approach while leveraging his deep industry knowledge to ensure commercial success.

For women’s wear, pastel-checked bouclé pieces (reminiscent of Clueless), black styles, and bold color combinations—some reserved for the showroom—highlighted that tweed makes up over 20% of Balmain’s ready-to-wear offerings. A floral motif, reimagined from a Pierre Balmain original, appeared in new iterations of the brand’s expanding handbag line, including the Anthem (belt-buckle detail), the Sync (chain-strap), the Ébène (croissant-shaped), and the cinched-waist Shuffle.

While knit bandage dresses and floral split skirts made an appearance, the collection notably shifted from bodycon to oversized, intricately tailored wool pieces—often cropped and paired with matching microskirts or shorts. One standout was a voluminous coat with a Monet-inspired felted print, a nod to Pierre Balmain’s artistic legacy. Wedge boots, now in shearling as well as leather, were styled with lingerie-inspired dresses, while cocoon-like cashmere capes in peach and lemon stood out as wardrobe essentials.

Men’s wear played with contrasts—sharp, fitted tailoring against relaxed denim, leather, or jacquard sportswear. Formal shoes were elevated with chunky soles and metal detailing, blending classic French sophistication with streetwear influences. Hidden gems in the showroom included labyrinth-patterned shirt-and-short sets, leather-wool hybrid jackets, and bouclé overshirts.

As Rousteing put it: “The real question is always, What do you want to offer? My answer evolves each season, but it always involves revisiting the past to shape the future. That’s why I constantly engage with Pierre Balmain’s original vision—and find new ways to express that conversation.”