For a clear and comprehensive look at current Japanese menswear trends, Ancellm’s debut runway show offers just that. The brand celebrated its fifth anniversary with its first show in Tokyo, held before an audience of nearly 1,000 people at the spacious, glass-walled Triangle Plaza in the Shinjuku Sumitomo Building.
Based in Okayama—the hometown of founder Kazuya Yamachika, an area near Hiroshima known for its manufacturing hubs—Ancellm produces much of its clothing locally. The brand is recognized for its creative and inventive distressing methods, using techniques like bleaching, sanding, and paint splattering on everything from denim to leather jackets. This gives each piece a broken-in feel and a consistently soft texture.
The collection featured oversized linen tailoring with raw edges, button-ups with rough collars, faded workwear jackets, distressed knits, and relaxed, flowy pants—all with a consistent bohemian flair. Dark brown, a dominant color in menswear right now, appeared throughout, reinforcing the brand’s earthy, tactile aesthetic.
Backstage after the show, Yamachika shared that this collection was an exploration of color—he develops his own custom shades. The palette ranged from brown to mustard yellow, deep reds, washed-out denim blues, khakis, and intentionally soiled whites, plus a standout iridescent navy quilted jacket reminiscent of Barbour. “There wasn’t a specific theme this time,” he explained, “but I wanted people to see the full spectrum of colors from start to finish.”
With 40 looks, however, the show began to lose energy around the midpoint. Presenting a large volume of clothing without a clear narrative or cultural references can make a collection feel more like straightforward product than compelling fashion. That may work commercially—Ancellm is said to be selling well both in Japan and internationally—but for future runway presentations, editing down and adding more depth would make a stronger impact.
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of helpful and clear FAQs about Ancellm Tokyo Spring 2026
General Information
Q What is Ancellm Tokyo Spring 2026
A Its a major fashion event held in Tokyo Japan in the spring of 2026 Its where the Ancellm brand unveils its latest clothing and accessory collections for the upcoming season
Q When and where exactly is it happening
A The event is scheduled for Spring 2026 The specific dates and venue location in Tokyo will be announced closer to the event Keep an eye on Ancellms official website and social media for updates
Q Is this event open to the public or is it inviteonly
A The main runway shows and presentations are typically industryonly However brands often host complementary public events popup shops or livestream the shows online
For Attendees Fans
Q How can I get tickets or an invitation
A Invitations are usually extended to industry professionals As a fan your best bet is to follow Ancellms social channels for announcements about public events lottery draws for show tickets or exclusive popup experiences
Q Im traveling to Tokyo for this Any tips
A Absolutely Book your accommodation and flights well in advance as the city gets very busy during fashion week Research the venue location to plan your travel Also the weather in Tokyo during spring is mild but can be rainy so pack an umbrella and layers
Q Will the new collection be available to buy right after the show
A Not immediately Fashion shows present collections for the following season The Spring 2026 collection shown will likely be available in stores around late 2025 or early 2026
About the Collection Brand
Q What can we expect from the Spring 2026 collection
A While the exact themes are a secret Ancellm is known for its minimalist aesthetic architectural silhouettes and innovative fabric use Expect a blend of modern elegance and wearable art likely inspired by both contemporary and traditional Japanese influences
Q What makes Ancellm different from other luxury brands
A Ancellm is renowned for its exceptional attention to detail precision tailoring and a philosophy