During Paris Fashion Week, a remarkable auction took place at Piasa, featuring over 500 rare pieces from the early career of Comme des Garçons founder Rei Kawakubo. This collection, one of the largest of its kind ever offered, sparked intense bidding among fans and collectors worldwide, who either attended in person or joined by phone to acquire these coveted items.

Highlights included twisted black wool coats from the early 1980s and abstract printed jackets from the mid-1970s, all carefully selected by Japanese collector Hiroaki Narita. A seasoned collector and founder of Japan’s first design-focused auction houses, Narita and his partner maintain a warehouse in Japan filled with thousands of prized pieces from Comme des Garçons and Maison Martin Margiela.

The auction showcased more than 450 documented runway pieces from iconic collections such as Pirates (1981), Noir (1988), Metamorphosis (1994), and Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body (1997). It also featured rare hand-knit items from early lines like Tricot and Robe de Chambre, spanning the 1970s to 1999. For context, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 2017 exhibition on Kawakubo displayed only 140 works.

On a mild day in Paris, the auction coincided with Jonathan Anderson’s debut Dior womenswear show, leading some fashion enthusiasts to juggle bidding with livestreams of the runway. Inside Piasa, mannequins displayed the collection alongside a notable Louis Vuitton trunk from Cindy Sherman’s apartment, part of an upcoming auction dedicated to the artist’s Paris home. Attendees could explore two rooms filled with racks of clothing, including the layered t-shirt worn by Parker Posey in “Party Girl” and a sequin shrug from the 1999 Transformed Glamour show, inviting superfans to touch and try on items.

Narita, who has long wanted to host a Comme des Garçons auction, assembled most of the pieces in just one year, sourcing them from former staff, private collectors in Japan, and lesser-known auctions. Many items have been preserved unworn for decades. A man of few words, Narita himself wears pieces from the brand’s menswear collections and appeared before the sale in a minimalist jacket and bowler hat.

He focused on acquiring standout womenswear pieces that highlight unique materials and textiles, such as jackets with deer horn buttons and raw-edged muslin dresses. “I wanted to understand Kawakubo’s ideas,” he explained to Vogue. “So, I bought her works. Now I understand her ideas from 1970 to 1999.” Narita was accompanied by his 15-year-old son, who photographed the auction catalog in an unconventional style.The auction featured striking backgrounds and stylized images.

Paul Viguier, deputy director of Piasa, shared his enthusiasm: “For us, this was an extraordinary opportunity to launch our fashion department with what is likely one of the finest and largest collections in the world for our company, if not the absolute best.” Viguier, who embodies a classic French style with his slicked-back hair, prominent eyebrows, and neatly tied colorful scarves, was met outside the auction house while smoking. He emphasized, “We focus on designers and their creations, not on fashion itself. We’re not concerned with wearability or sizing. To us, each item is a work of art. Just as we don’t judge a chair by its comfort, our collectors use their pieces, even if they’ve paid €200,000 or €300,000—they live with the artwork.”

Examining one of the iconic Lumps and Bumps dresses in the auction, it’s tempting to view these items as art. However, it’s important to recall that designer Kawakubo has always maintained that her creations are simply clothing.

The auction started modestly with early ’80s hand-knit sweaters and simple wool jackets from the brand, selling for $250 to $400—a steal compared to prices at the Comme des Garçons boutique on Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, just a short walk from Piasa, where only perfumes, wallets, or small accessories from secondary lines might be found at such low costs.

Viguier noted, “Many private buyers are here to acquire a few pieces they’ll actually wear. People are realizing that for a few hundred euros, they can own a museum-quality item—a piece of history.”

As the auction progressed into the hundreds of lots, bidding grew more competitive. A cotton and wool draped coat (Lot 148) sold for $15,422, and a distressed black cotton dress from 1980 sparked a bidding war, fetching $16,900—reportedly a world record for a Comme des Garçons piece at auction. A Piasa PR representative expressed satisfaction: “We’re thrilled that many important museums worldwide made acquisitions.” A pink two-dimensional coat from the 1995 Sweeter than Sweet collection went for $7,600, while rarer early ’80s items, like a black and white top from the 1984 Round Rubber collection, estimated at $300-$400, sold for $4,900.

Viguier observed, “There are dedicated collectors who don’t look the part—they’re not the typical fashion types but are incredibly focused and knowledgeable.” Buyers also had access to vintage promotional catalogs, campaign prints, and copies of the brand’s limited magazine Six for a few hundred dollars. The same style of leather Mary Jane flats modeled by Jean-Michel Basquiat in 1987 sold for just $617.

Reflecting on Kawakubo, Narita commented, “Her mind is incredibly unique—it’s an unbelievable power. She’s the top designer in the world,” adding that he feels too intimidated to meet her.

Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of helpful and natural FAQs about the recordbreaking Comme Des Garons auction in Paris

General Beginner Questions

1 What exactly happened at the Comme Des Garons auction in Paris
A collection of rare and historic Comme Des Garons pieces was sold at an auction house and the final sale prices were much higher than expected breaking previous records for the brand

2 Who is Comme Des Garons
Comme Des Garons is a highly influential Japanese fashion label founded by designer Rei Kawakubo Its known for its avantgarde artistic and often unconventional clothing

3 Why is this auction such a big deal
Its a big deal because it shows that clothing from Comme Des Garons is now being recognized and valued as high art and a serious cultural artifact similar to famous paintings or sculptures

4 What kind of pieces were sold
The auction featured iconic items from the brands history including rare garments from early groundbreaking runway shows and oneofakind samples

5 How much money are we talking about
While the exact totals vary many individual pieces sold for tens or even hundreds of thousands of dollars far exceeding their original sale prices and preauction estimates

Deeper Advanced Questions

6 What does this mean for the fashion world
It solidifies the status of avantgarde fashion as a bluechip investment It signals to collectors and museums that clothing from visionary designers like Rei Kawakubo is a critical part of art history

7 Which specific pieces broke records
While the catalog changes per auction items from seminal collections like the 1997 Body Meets Dress Dress Meets Body are typically among the top performers due to their historical importance

8 Who buys this kind of clothing at auction
The buyers are typically serious fashion collectors international museums and private investors who see it as an alternative asset

9 Is my old Comme Des Garons shirt worth a lot of money now
Not necessarily The recordbreaking prices are for extremely rare historically significant pieces often directly linked to a major runway show Massproduced items even from Comme Des Garons wont have the same value