When it comes to skincare, there are plenty of impressive active ingredients to know—like bakuchiol, BHAs, and tranexamic acid. But have you heard of dioic acid? This ingredient is said to reduce excess oil and bacteria, fade dark spots, and even out skin tone. Sound promising? Keep reading to learn more about this potentially game-changing ingredient.
What is dioic acid?
Dioic acid, also known as octadecenedioic acid, is a plant-derived carboxylic acid. Its chemical structure is similar to azelaic acid, which is used to treat acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. According to at least one study comparing it to hydroquinone—another common treatment for dark spots and melasma—dioic acid may be gentler and less irritating. As Satchi Skin, which makes a serum with this ingredient, explains: “Dioic acid was developed as an alternative that could deliver effective results at lower concentrations than 20% azelaic acid.”
Because of this, dioic acid is increasingly used in skincare products aimed at hyperpigmentation and post-acne dark spots. It also helps unclog pores and control acne-causing bacteria, making it useful for preventing breakouts—even for those with sensitive skin. The same study notes that dioic acid is both effective and well-tolerated.
Which products contain dioic acid?
Although dioic acid isn’t yet widely known, it’s being used more often by well-known brands. For example, SkinCeuticals’ Blemish + Age Defense serum contains 2% dioic acid along with salicylic acid to target adult acne, fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone. PSA’s Silver Lining Dioic & Willowherb Clarifying Cream includes 4% dioic acid and vitamin C, offering hydration while clarifying the skin. The Inkey List’s 360° Acne Clearing Serum also features dioic acid and claims to visibly reduce breakouts in just two weeks.
SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Defense – $115 at Bluemercury
PSA Skincare Silver Lining Dioic & Willowherb Clarifying Cream – $38 at Amazon
The Inkey List 360° Acne Clearing Serum – $18 at The Inkey List
Multi Nutrient & Dioic Renewing Cream – $112 at Amazon
Curious about a beauty or wellness trend? Let us know! Email Vogue’s senior beauty and wellness editor at beauty@vogue.com.
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of helpful and clear FAQs about dioic acid
Frequently Asked Questions About Dioic Acid
1 What is dioic acid
Dioic acid is a naturally occurring acid also known as azelaic acid that is used in skincare to treat concerns like acne and hyperpigmentation
2 What are the main benefits of using dioic acid
Its main benefits are reducing redness and inflammation from acne lightening dark spots and postacne marks and preventing new breakouts by killing acnecausing bacteria
3 Is dioic acid good for acne
Yes its excellent for acne It fights the bacteria that cause breakouts reduces inflammation and helps unclog pores making it effective for both treating and preventing acne
4 Can dioic acid help with dark spots
Absolutely It works by inhibiting an enzyme that produces melanin which is the pigment responsible for dark spots This makes it a great ingredient for fading sun spots melasma and marks left behind by old pimples
5 What skin types is dioic acid best for
Its particularly wellsuited for acneprone and sensitive skin as its generally less irritating than some other acids However it can benefit most skin types looking to address discoloration or breakouts
6 Can I use dioic acid if I have sensitive skin
Yes it is often recommended for sensitive skin because it is antiinflammatory and typically gentler than ingredients like retinoids or highstrength AHAsBHAs Its always best to do a patch test first
7 Are there any side effects
Some people might experience mild side effects when they first start using it such as slight itching redness dryness or a tingling sensation These usually subside as your skin gets used to the product
8 How does dioic acid compare to other ingredients like salicylic acid or vitamin C
vs Salicylic Acid Salicylic acid is a betahydroxy acid that excels at exfoliating inside pores to treat blackheads and whiteheads Dioic acid is better at reducing redness killing bacteria and fading dark spots