Did anyone steal the show at the Met Gala quite like Thom Browne? The designer outfitted 21 guests in unique looks—including Demi Moore, Zoe Saldana, Lorde, Janelle Monae, and Nicki Minaj. “It felt like presenting a mini couture collection,” Browne remarked a few days after the event during our Zoom call about his pre-fall line, which represents the more accessible side of his brand.

While his theatrical Met Gala designs turned heads—like Moore’s dramatic gown shaped like a men’s striped tie—the pre-fall collection keeps things wearable. Set to hit stores after his fall line (which debuted in February and will soon arrive at new locations in Palm Beach and Los Angeles), this season highlights Browne’s sharp tailoring and clever proportions in versatile fabrics—less avant-garde, more timeless. “I want people to see the brand evolving while staying true to what they’ve always loved,” he explained.

Even playful touches, like the cashmere mesh basketball jerseys (numbered “65” for his birth year, 1965), reflect his signature precision. “Tailoring can feel like sportswear, and sportswear can feel like tailoring,” he noted. Though he’s dressed plenty of athletes, this collection nods to tennis and golf, with deck shoes and duck boots making an appearance. Expanding accessories is key to the brand’s growth—like the new distressed-leather versions of the Mr. and Mrs. Thom bags, which introduce a more relaxed shape.

That’s not to say Browne has softened his exacting standards. Loyal fans will still find pieces that feel like a second skin, while newcomers might be drawn to unexpected touches—like a suede “jean jacket” or a mohair tweed work shirt—that add a fresh, approachable twist to his signature style.