Ludovico Bruno’s love for martial arts shines through in his work. His muscular build reflects countless hours in the gym—and also explains why his brand, Mordecai, favors oversized, relaxed fits. “I design clothes I’d actually wear myself,” he said during a preview of his spring collection, held fittingly in a fencing gym. The show featured real athletes from wrestling and karate schools, performing live judo moves that blurred the line between runway and dojo with quiet intensity.

Judokas’ stances often look like an embrace—physical, yes, but also deeply respectful, even in competition. This idea took on new meaning after Bruno saw a photo of two brothers reuniting after being separated by war. The raw tenderness of that moment inspired a shift in the collection: silhouettes became more fitted, volumes were scaled back to highlight the body’s shape. Yet the clothes still allowed movement, thanks to lightweight, breathable fabrics.

Bruno refined his skills at Moncler, and his expertise in high-performance sportswear is clear in his outerwear—simple yet functional, with an innovative touch. His puffer jackets hugged the torso, padded to mimic sculpted abs (no gym required), layered over billowy parachute pants tapered at the ankles. Travel influences appeared throughout, like vibrant Suzani-printed trousers breaking up a neutral palette, and roomy black-and-white striped coats inspired by the textures of Atlas carpets.

“Martial arts are as much about ritual as discipline,” said Bruno, who treats his fitness routine with almost religious dedication. At Mordecai, even a sharp blazer nods to the shape of a kimono, echoing the effortless elegance of a judo uniform.