“The mood this season is curiosity,” says Nick Tran, Dover Street Market Paris buying director, describing what to expect from Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026. He voices the questions on everyone’s mind: “What will Demna bring to Gucci? What about Meryll Rogge at Marni? And Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi? What will Simone Bellotti for Jil Sander and Louise Trotter for Bottega Veneta show in their second collections?”
All will be revealed over the next seven days. But it’s clear that if last season was a major reckoning for Paris Fashion Week, with many designer debuts at major luxury houses, this season Milan stands at a creative crossroads. New creative directors at Gucci, Fendi, and Marni will present their first runway shows, the Armani brand is finding its new rhythm, and several of the city’s newer designers are set to solidify their visions with a second or third show.
Add to this a surge of fresh talent, an influx of new labels participating throughout the week, and the lingering halo effect of the Winter Olympics, which ended on February 22, and there’s much to consider at MFW FW26, running from February 24 to March 1. The week will feature 52 physical runway shows and 89 presentations, including Prada (“always a highlight,” says Tran), Diesel, Ferragamo, Missoni, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, and Max Mara, alongside the aforementioned brands.
Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI), expects a mood of “pragmatic energy” for FW26, in response to a turbulent retail environment. The Saks Global bankruptcy, the latest in a series of retailer struggles, looms large, and luxury groups Kering, LVMH, and OTB—which own Gucci, Fendi, and Marni, respectively—all saw growth slow in fiscal 2025. With the next round of debuts and sophomore shows, these houses need strong creative foundations to continue recovering from the luxury slowdown.
“On one hand, there will be a desire for creative momentum, because debuts raise the bar. On the other, there is a very concrete awareness of the economic moment,” Capasa says. “The retail landscape is clearly undergoing a significant transformation, and multi-brand stores are facing particular pressure. This is a structural shift that cannot be ignored.”
Major Debuts
Maria Grazia Chiuri will make her runway debut as Fendi’s chief creative officer on Wednesday afternoon. It’s a homecoming of sorts: the Roman designer previously worked in accessories at Fendi from 1988 to 1999, co-designing the iconic Fendi Baguette. Now she returns after a commercially successful nine-year tenure at Dior. “I’m really curious to see Maria Grazia at Fendi,” says Vogue’s Tiziana Cardini. “That’s my big curiosity.”
On Thursday, Belgian rising star Meryll Rogge—winner of the 2025 Andam Prize—will make her Marni debut, having been appointed at the house last July. Stefano Rosso, Marni CEO and scion of parent group OTB, said during the Vogue Business Global Summit: Middle East in November that he is pleased with the timing of the show, given the season is less crowded with major debuts.
Then comes the big one. On Friday afternoon, Kering’s biggest brand, Gucci, will officially enter its next creative era as Demna presents his first runway show for the house. He has already released two collections: La Famiglia, unveiled via a film during MFW SS26, and Generation Gucci, a lookbook of archive-inspired pre-fall pieces. But Gucci maintains that Friday’s runway show is the official reveal of Demna’s vision for the Italian house, followed by a major party and a secret music performance.
Demna has already teased the new Gucci with two collections, La Famiglia…Milan Fashion Week is set to showcase a mix of highly anticipated debuts and sophomore collections. The week’s highlight will be Friday’s show, which will fully unveil Sabato De Sarno’s vision for Gucci, following earlier previews of his SS26 and Generation Gucci (Pre-fall 2026) collections. Other key shows include Matthieu Blazy’s second collection for Bottega Veneta, Simone Bellotti’s second for Jil Sander, and David Koma’s third runway show for Blumarine, also on Friday.
Following the passing of Giorgio Armani shortly before the brand’s SS26 show, the upcoming Giorgio Armani collection will be designed by his niece, Silvana Armani. The Emporio Armani line will be a collaborative effort between Silvana and Mr. Armani’s longtime collaborator, Leo Dell’Orco.
Carlo Capasa, President of the National Chamber for Italian Fashion (CNMI), emphasizes the city’s unique strength: “The debuts and artistic direction changes bring energy and international attention, but what makes Milan unique is its ability to transform this creative moment into a system. Over 180 appointments between runway shows, presentations, and events confirm a solid platform, capable of connecting creativity, production, and the market in a structured way.”
Spotlight on New Talent
A surge of emerging talent continues to define recent seasons, bolstered by efforts from CNMI and the Fondazione Sozzani incubator. Industry experts point to two brands in particular: Institution by Galib Gassanoff and Act No.1. Both were recently announced as LVMH Prize semi-finalists. Interestingly, designers Luca Lin and Galib Gassanoff co-founded Act No.1 in 2016 before Gassanoff launched his own label, Institution, in 2024. Both have since gained individual recognition with support from CNMI and Fondazione Sozzani and will present on Friday (Institution) and Saturday (Act No.1). Gassanoff also recently won the Zalando Visionary Award at Copenhagen Fashion Week.
“This is the thing about Milan’s young talents. They grow slowly, but if they succeed, they become quite consistent,” says critic Angelo Flaccavento. “They may not have much exposure initially, but they can grow very well once they have everything in place.”
Other new brands to watch include Francesco Murano, who will stage a presentation with support from Fondazione Sozzani, as well as debuting labels Florania and Casa Preti.
“Fondazione Sozzani always has the best programming during Milan Fashion Week, a place to discover emerging talent from Italy and around the world,” says editor Véronique Hyland. “I’m especially excited to attend the screening of Paving the Way — Franca’s Legacy, a documentary on the incredible life and impact of Franca Sozzani.”
Events and Public Engagement
Beyond the runway, the week is packed with events from established brands celebrating anniversaries, store openings, and collaborations. Moncler will stage an experiential exhibition of its Grenoble collections on Wednesday, Ann Demeulemeester will open a Milan store with a party on Thursday, and GCDS will host a 10th-anniversary show, dinner, and party on Friday night.
While many events are private, CNMI aims to make Milan Fashion Week more of a public cultural event, building on the recent Olympic buzz which highlighted the city’s cultural vibrancy. The organizer’s Fashion Hub will be open to the public throughout the week, featuring exhibitions like “Future Threads: Italy’s New Wave and New Gen, New Ethos,” curated by Sara Maino Sozzani of Fondazione Sozzani and CNMI.
“This year, we are strengthening the integration between fashion week and the city, with the Fashion Hub acting as a bridge…””Capasa describes it as a strategic platform that boosts visibility and networking for designers and international projects. He emphasizes that supporting designers today must lead to tangible opportunities—not just media attention, but real chances for creative and business development.”
Frequently Asked Questions
Milan Fashion Week FallWinter 2026 Your Essential Guide FAQs
Basics Getting Started
What is Milan Fashion Week
Milan Fashion Week is one of the Big Four global fashion events Its where top Italian and international designers showcase their latest collections for the upcoming seasonin this case FallWinter 2026to buyers press and celebrities
When and where is FallWinter 2026 happening
The main events are typically held in late February or early March 2026 Most shows are concentrated in central Milan at venues like the historic Palazzo Reale specific brand headquarters and other iconic locations across the fashion district
Do I need an invitation to attend
Yes the runway shows and main presentations are strictly by invitation only extended to industry professionals buyers VIPs and accredited media However there are many publicfacing events showroom openings and installations that fashion enthusiasts can sometimes access
How can I follow it if Im not there in person
Most major houses livestream their runway shows on their official websites and social media channels Fashion platforms like Vogue Runway and WWD provide realtime coverage photos and reviews
Understanding the Season Trends
Why is it called FallWinter 2026 if its in early 2026
Fashion works on a preseason calendar Shows in early 2026 present collections that will be available in stores for customers to buy and wear in the FallWinter of that same year
What are the key trends expected for FW26
While trends are revealed at the shows early industry forecasts suggest a continued focus on material innovation bold architectural silhouettes a potential resurgence of dark romanticism and an emphasis on investment outerwear The shows themselves will define the trends
Whats the difference between a runway show and a presentation
A runway show is a dynamic timed event with models walking a catwalk A presentation is more static models pose in a set environment allowing guests to view the clothes up close and for longer periods
Practical Tips Navigation
What should I wear if Im attending
Dress