Reaching a milestone like 10 years in business naturally leads to reflection. Brandon Maxwell has arrived at that point, and the introspective designer was even more thoughtful than usual during a recent showroom visit. “It’s taken me a decade to finally understand what I’m doing,” he admitted with a wry laugh. Looking back at his work, it’s clear he found his direction about two and a half years ago. His pre-fall 2023 collection marked a clear shift away from what might be called youthful exuberance—bold colors, prints, and dramatic Texas-inspired flair.

Since then, he’s embraced a sleek, almost restrained minimalism—rooted in black, white, and neutral-toned sportswear separates, urban yet with an athletic edge. His latest resort collection continues this approach. “I’ve been revisiting and refining a sense of effortlessness,” he explained. “Everything is inspired by my heroes—Ralph Lauren, Halston, those timeless American icons.”

The collection begins with tailoring, now more relaxed—think roomy trenches with oversized sleeves and slouchy epaulets that drape below the shoulders, or bombers with adjustable drawstring waists. During a walkthrough, Maxwell demonstrated a blouson jacket with a convertible cowl neckline, noting it could also be worn like a hood or with one sleeve off the shoulder. He also highlighted a sleek checked mac with just one seam at the collar; the rest are heat-sealed, giving the coat a clean, polished look inside and out.

For casual wear, he reimagined denim as a fit-and-flare skirt and crafted a classic jean jacket in supple cowhide—”each one will be unique,” he said. For evening, he designed a streamlined dress with delicate straps extending from a double-triangle neckline—a far cry from his earlier ballgown designs.