Francesco Risso is stepping down as creative director of Marni after nearly a decade at the helm. The news was confirmed to Vogue Business this morning by OTB, Marni’s parent company.

Risso, who was literally born on a sailing boat, took the reins at Marni during a pivotal moment in 2016. Despite being relatively unknown at the time, he weathered early criticism to successfully transform the brand into a culturally relevant and commercially successful label.

Renzo Rosso, chairman of OTB Group, who originally appointed Risso, said: “Francesco fully embraced Marni’s spirit and values, taking them to new heights while laying the groundwork for the brand’s exciting future. He’s a truly unique designer and artist at heart, and I wish him all the best.”

Risso responded: “I’ll always be grateful to Renzo for this incredible opportunity. Marni became more than I ever imagined – a creative studio, a stage, a dream. It taught me the power of emotion in design and the strength of true collaboration. My deepest thanks to the entire Marni team and everyone who joined me on this journey. Here’s to new adventures ahead!”

OTB hasn’t yet announced Risso’s successor. This change completes a trio of creative leadership shifts within the group, following Simone Bellotti’s appointment at Jil Sander and Glenn Martens taking on Maison Margiela while continuing at Diesel. Notably, with Lucie Meier’s recent departure from Jil Sander, OTB’s brands currently have no female creative directors – a factor that might influence their choice for Marni’s next leader.

Risso’s appointment was particularly bold at the time. OTB had acquired Marni in stages (2012 and 2015) from founder Consuelo Castiglioni and her husband Gianni. Castiglioni had launched Marni in 1994 as an offshoot of their fur business, naming it after her stepsister Marina’s nickname. The brand was beloved for its colorful, unconventional designs and early sustainability efforts, and many fans were initially skeptical about the leadership change.

While Risso faced similar initial resistance as Hedi Slimane did at Celine (after Phoebe Philo’s departure), he came to Marni as a relative unknown compared to Slimane’s established reputation. Rosso had discovered him at Prada, where he worked with Miuccia Prada for eight years – an experience he called “surfing for the mind.” Before Prada, he had collaborated with Alessandro Dell’Acqua.After studying under Louise Wilson at Central Saint Martins in London, Francesco Risso worked at Acqua in Milan and Anna Molinari’s Blumarine in Carpi before joining Marni. He made headlines by dressing Nicki Minaj in Marni for the 2024 Met Gala themed “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion.”

In his first interview as Marni’s creative director, Risso told Vogue: “Marni is a temple of playful intelligence that defies stereotypes—I’m committed to preserving that spirit.” However, some loyal followers of the brand’s founder Consuelo Castiglioni initially resisted his vision. His debut collection received mixed reviews, to which Risso responded: “People still need time to understand me. Many adored Consuelo—that’s natural. Her departure was hard for fans to accept.”

Over time, Risso won over critics through his design talent, theatrical flair, and inclusive approach. He gradually transformed Marni’s aesthetic from polished eccentricity to something more artisanal, chaotic, and radically eclectic.

Reflecting on his Spring/Summer 2022 show—where he dressed attendees in upcycled Marni pieces and featured diverse young creatives (including himself) in a hybrid runway performance—he told Vogue Italia: “My mission is to foster human connection.” This show exemplified his collaborative spirit, as he generously shared the creative platform provided by Marni’s owner Renzo Rosso. Through such visionary presentations, Risso redefined the brand’s identity while delivering some of fashion’s most memorable moments in recent years.

Whatever his next move, his future employer will be fortunate to gain his talent. Meanwhile, his successor at Marni will inherit one of fashion’s most creatively promising houses.

[Photo captions remain unchanged]

For comments or inquiries, email feedback@voguebusiness.com.

Related reading:
– Demna named Gucci creative director
– Luke and Lucie Meier depart Jil Sander
– Donatella Versace passes creative leadership to Dario Vitale

[Subscription promotion text unchanged]

This article originally appeared on Vogue Business.