Christian Dior’s debut collection for spring 1947, presented on February 12 at 30 Avenue Montaigne, inspired fashion editor Carmel Snow to famously remark: “My dear Christian, your dresses have such a New Look!” The rest, as they say, is history.

This groundbreaking collection featured full A-line skirts and the iconic “Bar jacket” with its cinched waist, padded hips, and rounded shoulders. It became a defining moment in fashion—a timeless vision of elegance that still influences designers today. Nearly 80 years later, the “New Look” remains Dior’s signature, reinterpreted by creative directors like Raf Simons, Maria Grazia Chiuri, and Kim Jones. Now, Jonathan Anderson will undoubtedly put his own spin on it.

While Dior’s womenswear has made an indelible mark, its menswear has had a quieter evolution. The line has undergone multiple name changes—from Christian Dior Monsieur to Dior Homme to Dior Men—and has served as a creative laboratory within the legendary fashion house. Each designer has reimagined men’s style with the same bold spirit as Dior’s original “New Look.”

Though Christian Dior is best known for his revolutionary silhouettes, his business acumen also shaped the industry. He expanded into fragrances, opened international boutiques (like New York in 1948), launched footwear with Roger Vivier in 1953, and even published A Little Dictionary of Fashion in 1954. Though he passed away in 1957—before seeing Miss Dior (1967), Baby Dior (1967), or menswear take shape—his legacy endures.

As Jonathan Anderson prepares for his debut menswear show as Dior’s sole creative director on June 27, we look back at the history of Dior menswear.

### 1969: Christian Dior Monsieur
After Christian Dior’s death in 1957, Yves Saint Laurent briefly took over before Marc Bohan became creative director. Bohan, who led Dior for nearly 30 years, introduced the “Slim Look” and launched the house’s first men’s fragrance, Eau Sauvage, in 1966. In 1969, he debuted Christian Dior Monsieur, the brand’s first official menswear line, with the Spring-Summer 1970 “Boutique Monsieur” collection. Subsequent designers Christian Benais and Gérard Penneroux carried it forward—until now, when Anderson becomes the first creative director to oversee both womenswear and menswear since Bohan.

### 1983: Dominique Morlotti Takes Over
Dominique Morlotti became the designer for Christian Dior Monsieur in 1983, after working at Pierre Balmain. He stayed for five years before moving to Lanvin in 1992. (Videos of his Dior collections can still be found online.)

Meanwhile, Bernard Arnault entered the scene in 1984 when his investment group took control of Christian Dior.

(The text cuts off here, but the original likely continued with further milestones in Dior menswear history.)Paris, France.

In 1992, Patrick Lavoix became the creative director of Christian Dior Monsieur, three years after Gianfranco Ferré took over as head of womenswear. John Galliano would join the house in 1996.

2000: The Dior Homme Era
Hedi Slimane replaced Lavoix, rebranding the line from Christian Dior Monsieur to Dior Homme. Slimane had previously been the artistic director of menswear at Yves Saint Laurent, where he first introduced his signature ultra-slim silhouette. At Dior, he revolutionized menswear—his fall 2005 collection, especially the iconic skinny jeans, became a cult favorite and helped popularize the “skinny” cut. Even Karl Lagerfeld famously lost weight just to wear Slimane’s sleek Dior Homme suits.

Slimane left Dior Homme in 2007, but not before becoming the first menswear designer to win the CFDA International Designer Award, presented by David Bowie. His work redefined the brand, earning comparisons to Christian Dior’s groundbreaking 1947 debut.

2007: A New Direction
Belgian designer Kris Van Assche took over after Slimane, facing the challenge of following his influential tenure. Van Assche softened the brand’s aesthetic, favoring looser, more relaxed tailoring. His runway shows always opened with a suit, reflecting his vision of modern elegance.

By his final collection in 2018, Van Assche revisited Dior’s classic late ’40s tailoring, adapting it for contemporary menswear. “I wanted to make it body-conscious again,” he explained, pushing back against the streetwear trend that had dominated fashion. He later moved on to lead Berluti.

2018: Dior Men
Kim Jones succeeded Van Assche, bringing his own global perspective. Jones had previously made waves at Louis Vuitton with his groundbreaking Supreme collaboration, blending luxury and streetwear. At Dior, he renamed the line “Dior Men” and staged shows everywhere from Miami to Egypt’s pyramids. His debut collection for spring 2019 was described as “romantic, rather than feminine,” setting a new tone for the brand.Jones’ work at Dior was not only softer but also brighter and more luxurious. His sophisticated yet vibrant approach redefined menswear and transformed how celebrities dressed for red carpets. With clever tailoring—like his signature draped lapels and silk trains—he gave Dior Men a sensual, gender-fluid aesthetic. He frequently drew inspiration from Christian Dior’s couture archives, seamlessly connecting the brand’s heritage with its modern menswear line—paving the way for Anderson’s eventual arrival. His farewell show for Fall 2025 was the season’s standout collection.

As Sarah Mower noted, “Jones has been a trailblazer, merging streetwear with luxury fashion and bringing a younger generation’s sensibility to the runway.” A true showman, his Dior Men runway spectacles—like the epic show in Giza—reshaped how we experience fashion presentations today.

He also reimagined the men’s suit repeatedly, while paying homage to Dior’s most iconic couture designs in menswear. And, of course, he remained the undisputed king of fashion collaborations.

### 2025: The Jonathan Anderson Era

After months of speculation, Bernard Arnault confirmed in April that Jonathan Anderson would design Dior Men’s Spring 2026 collection. Earlier this month, following Maria Grazia Chiuri’s farewell show in Rome, it was announced that Anderson would take over as Dior’s head of creation—overseeing men’s, women’s, couture, and accessories.

His debut show is set for June 27 at 2:30 PM Paris time. In anticipation, Anderson shared two Andy Warhol photographs—one of Jean-Michel Basquiat and another of Lee Radziwill—calling them “the epitome of style” and key inspirations for his vision.

(Instagram content embedded—viewable on original platform.)