It’s a sunny March Saturday in New York City, and Vogue editor Lilah Ramzi is mingling at the Vogue Vintage Market in SoHo’s Roll & Hill showroom, chatting with excited shoppers and sharing stories about the vintage pieces on display in the bright, airy space. On her wrist is a sleek cocktail watch—a dainty Cartier Baignoire with a thin black satin strap and a white gold diamond dial. And it’s not even 11 a.m. yet.
Later that afternoon, uptown at the Merci C’est Vintage pop-up in The Fifth Avenue Hotel, Silvia Dusci of Le Sundial is wearing a similar Cartier Baignoire—hers with a more subtle gold dial (a nod to the 1912 original), paired with a crisp white poplin top, black trousers, and Roger Vivier pumps.
It’s no coincidence that both Ramzi and Dusci chose cocktail watches for daytime wear. Brynn Wallner, founder of Dimepiece, a platform focused on women and watches, tells Vogue that these “feminine, cocktail-style watches are really having a moment.” Wallner notes that women are now treating watches as versatile investment pieces, as easy to mix and match as jewelry—a shift that reflects both the high cost of watches and the fact that they’re not always a necessity. “For most women, wearing a bulky watch isn’t practical,” she adds. “You want something delicate and jewelry-like because it layers well and goes with almost any outfit.”
A Cartier Tank paired with a tennis bracelet.
Photo: Courtesy of Carina Nicklas
Peeking out from under: a diamond-dial Baignoire worn with a slim bracelet.
This trend toward elegant, everyday wear is a stark contrast to the Y2K era of crop tops and low-rise jeans, Wallner says, when people actually relied on watches to tell time and gravitated toward bold, oversized men’s styles. (Who could forget the rose gold Rolex Daytona dominating the wrists of Victoria Beckham, Paris Hilton, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley?) The turning point, Wallner believes, came in 2023 when Cartier introduced the Baignoire on a bangle—a watch that combined the brand’s signature jewelry appeal with timeless design. “It’s one of the hottest watches right now,” she says, noting that it’s rare for a women’s watch to generate the kind of waitlists usually reserved for limited-edition men’s models.
Tariro Makino, creator of the popular Substack Trademarked, tells Vogue she’s noticed “EIHGs wearing the Baignoire since late 2022, early 2023—day and night.” The term “EIHG,” or “elusive international hot girl,” is Makino’s label for a cultural archetype she’s observed both in real life and online: a woman who’s “sharply intelligent, enigmatic, and always has the best stuff.” And, she adds, “100% of Baignoire owners I know fit the EIHG mold.”
Former fashion editor Noah Lahava, who runs NoahNoahNoah.Shop, has seen the rising demand for delicate women’s watches firsthand. “My love for watches grew out of my passion for collecting jewelry,” she says. “It was a natural progression—I’ve always been drawn to watches that feel more like bracelets than purely functional pieces.” As she explored vintage ladies’ styles in recent years—from diamond-studded Piaget Polos to tiny Audemars Piguet tennis bracelets and sculptural tiger’s-eye dial Chopards—she realized how overlooked this market had been. “I think everyone has their own idea of what a cocktail watch should be,” she says. “Some want something bold and eccentric, while others prefer timeless elegance.”Others may prefer something more delicate and refined.
Julia Rabinowitsch, founder of The Millennial Decorator—a curated destination for vintage fashion and accessories—tells Vogue that over the past five years, she’s seen a rapid and significant rise in interest in watches, particularly among women. She notes a shift from bold, chunky designs to smaller, more elegant timepieces. Her most sought-after requests are for Cartier models, which she showcases in stylish Instagram posts. The Cartier Tiny Tank Louis, Allongée, and the newer Baignoire Bangle are especially popular, with inquiries flooding her DMs.
Demand for women’s watches is also surging on secondhand platforms. According to Noelle Sciacca, associate director of fashion and strategic partnerships at The RealReal, searches for cocktail-style watches have jumped over 29% in the past year—particularly for the Bvlgari Serpenti (up 34%), Cartier Panthère (up 30%), and Cartier Baignoire (up 25%). Sales of smaller, daintier watches (20mm and under) have also risen, with the Chanel Première and Hermès Kelly among the most coveted.
With gold prices hitting record highs, resale values are climbing too. Sciacca notes that the Bvlgari Serpenti and Cartier Baignoire collections grew 9% in value, while watches under 20mm saw a 12% increase from the previous year.
Vestiaire Collective reports similar trends. A spokesperson reveals that the Cartier Tank has doubled in price since 2020 (from an average of $1,300 to $2,600), while other Cartier favorites—like the Must 21, Panthère Vendome, Tank Solo, and Tank Louis—sell within 30 days on average.
Even men are embracing smaller watches, typically sized between 20mm and 35mm. Bad Bunny and Tyler, the Creator are known collectors of vintage women’s watches, often adorned with gems. Cartier ambassador Timothée Chalamet has been spotted wearing multiple Mini Tanks, and last year, GQ declared tiny watches the biggest trend of 2023. Actor Paul Mescal recently wore four petite Cartier watches during his Gladiator II press tour.
Wallner suggests this trend emerged as buyers sought undervalued gems outside traditional men’s collections. Rabinowitsch adds that the appeal lies in their timeless elegance—a contrast to today’s oversized, logo-heavy accessories. As Makino puts it: “It’s consumption infused with emotional heft.”The Appeal of Cocktail Watches
For Jalil Johnson, founder of the Substack Consider Yourself Cultured, the cocktail watch is just as relevant—and fun to style—as the cocktail ring. “Both gained popularity around the same time and share a similar spirit: jewelry with ornamentation at its core,” he says. “Traditionally, they were reserved for evening wear and formal occasions, but today, I’d argue the cocktail watch feels incredibly modern when worn during the day. It’s a smart way to elevate your look without going overboard.”
Johnson tells Vogue that his first (and only) major watch purchase was the Hermès Kelly watch, a subtle yet iconic design introduced in the mid-’70s and inspired by the padlock on the Kelly bag. “What I love is that you can often find it on the resale market for under $1,000,” he says. “I consulted with Brynn Wallner before buying it, and it’s become my go-to. Even though it’s more decorative, I wear it almost every day.”
Styling for Day and Night
Creative consultant Carina Nicklas of Looxlikecarrie likes to create contrast when styling her Chanel Première. “For daytime, I usually wear it with denim and a leather jacket—it adds an unexpected element that feels modern but not too delicate,” she says. “I also love pairing it with something softer, like suede, silk, or oversized tailoring.”
After hours, it’s all about making a statement. Ramzi wore hers with a 1984 Oscar de la Renta gown to The Frick’s grand reopening gala. “I rarely stack anything else on that wrist when I’m wearing it; it’s both a timepiece and a showpiece, and deserves the spotlight,” she says.
Nicklas takes a similar approach for evening: “I keep it simple but thoughtful, with a silk slip or an all-black look with statement earrings.” She often wears it over a sleeve, “which makes it feel less traditional and a bit more playful.” Johnson also loves the idea of styling a Bulgari Serpenti with a strapless column dress and easy mules. “Because the watch is the star, you really don’t need much else. A great pair of earrings and a diamond pinky ring would be more than enough.”
Inspired Pairings for the Season
As we prepare for the 2025 Met Gala and this year’s Costume Institute exhibition, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style—which highlights the role jewelry has played in shaping dandyism—here are a few creative watch and jewelry pairings inspired by how our favorite tastemakers are styling their timepieces with modern flair.
– Cartier Baignoire Mini – $12,900
– Dorsey Petite Spencer Ring – $510
– Mejuri Sapphire Tennis Bracelet – $298
– Hermès Heure H Watch – $6,225
– Chanel Première Édition Originale Watch – $6,300
– Juju Vera Riviera Petra Tasseled Necklace – $595
– Valentino Garavani Embellished Fishnet Gloves – $590
– Cartier Tank Louis Watch – $7,000
– Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas Watch – $6,550
– 16Arlington Olall Crepe Turtleneck Blouse – $400