“You collect things, buy things, and build your wardrobe over time,” Chemena Kamali explained from Chloé’s airy, peaceful showroom. “But when you’re searching for something specific, you never seem to find it—that’s just not how fashion works.” We’ve all been there. Her refreshingly honest introduction set the tone for her pre-fall collection, continuing the authentic approach she’s brought to Chloé since her debut last year.

The brand’s website already showcases some of the lighter pieces and the new Heritage bag (notice its bold horse medallion logo), alongside lookbook photos that feel more like intimate portraits. The campaign features talents like Tish Weinstock, Petra Collins, and Ever Anderson (Milla Jovovich’s daughter). Did they choose their own looks—each one layered and personal? “I love seeing what different personalities are drawn to, how they make these pieces their own,” Kamali said. In other words, it’s about instinct, not rules.

Take the reimagined lace dresses and lingerie sets—now a Kamali signature—in rich pastels with delicate ruffles and embellishments. Far from overly precious, they were paired with standout outerwear that felt both fresh and well-loved: a satin bomber, a vintage-edged teal leather car coat, or a folkloric maxi coat with purple embroidery. Styled with strappy Mary Janes or edgy square-toe boots, plus jewelry mixing decades of decorative styles, the result was playful, eclectic sophistication. This multifaceted aesthetic appeals to both newcomers discovering Chloé and longtime fans seeking fresh takes.

Proving she’s not just about soft silhouettes, Kamali delivered sharp jackets this season—like a cropped tapestry style with bourgeois charm or a double-breasted checked blazer she modeled to highlight its tailored but relaxed shape. And after Chloé’s fall runway emphasized shearling, the pre-fall coats—including one trimmed with punkish turquoise—offer an early taste of the trend.

But Kamali’s philosophy remains timeless. “Sometimes you adore something for a while, then forget about it—only to rediscover it years later,” she said. These are pieces meant to last.