What do Isabella Blow, Valentino, Lady Gaga—and most recently, Jonathan Anderson’s Dior—all have in common? They’ve all been given the word treatment by famous hat designer Philip Treacy.
“A hat is a mood. It’s a feeling,” Treacy tells me the night before the Dior Cruise show. Last week, Anderson teased the Los Angeles event with a custom pair of Treacy’s “Hat” hats—this time, spelling out “Dior.” Little did we know it was just the start of Dior’s new hat language.
The famous word hat first appeared in Treacy’s own couture line: In 2001, he got the idea to make a hat out of feathers that cheekily read “Hat.” Made from Japanese Yokohama chicken feathers, each hat takes three days to sculpt, shape, bake, and assemble (Treacy’s friend, the late designer Anthony Price, raised the chickens and harvested the feathers for him). “You really get to know every single feather you’re working with. You have to figure out which feather will give you which letter; it all depends on its spine. But every letter brings a different challenge,” Treacy says of the process. “Feathers don’t just float on your head by themselves. Or very easily.”
It wasn’t long before the Hat hat made its Vogue debut. Britney Spears was on the cover of Vogue’s All-American November 2001 issue (the first issue produced after 9/11), shot by Herb Ritts. Inside, the opening photo was a black-and-white shot of the pop star wearing her own Treacy word hat (commissioned by Anna Wintour), spelling out her name.
“Of course, when Isabella saw Britney’s hat, she was absolutely furious,” Treacy says with a laugh. “She wanted ‘Blow’ on hers, because she was working with M.A.C. and they made a lipstick for her called ‘Blow.’” The next year, Valentino Garavani asked Treacy to create a red hat with the brand name for his spring 2002 couture show, and Karolína Kurková wore it for the opening. The hat came back in 2011 when Lady Gaga wore a slasher-font version of it on Jimmy Kimmel.
Each of these hats feels unique in style and spirit—even though it’s the same idea, just tweaked in shape and color. “It’s the personalization that makes it feel new every time,” Treacy says. “The Valentino hat couldn’t look more Valentino, because it said Valentino. But not every word works. The word you use is what gives it power.”
When it came to working with Jonathan Anderson for his Hollywood-inspired collection at LACMA, it started simply with “Dior.” “Jonathan told me Isabella was on his inspiration board for this show,” he says. “It’s compelling as a hat because the word is a symbol of excellence. Those four letters mean a lot.” Look 16—a male model wearing a shiny suit and cape, with a golden Dior floating above his head—was our first glimpse, followed by more unexpected words from pop artist Edward Ruscha (Star, Buzz, and Flow—maybe a California-style nod to Blow).
It’s been 35 years since the first Hat hat walked the runway, and Treacy credits their lasting appeal to the design’s playful nature. “It looks like feathers are just floating above your head to form whatever word,” he says. “Feathers seem like the most fragile thing in nature. But a bird spends its life flying around the world, using its feathers to move forward. So actually, they’re incredibly strong and fragile at the same time. There’s no material that conveys weightlessness and fragility like a feather.”
Frequently Asked Questions
Here is a list of FAQs about Philip Treacy and his iconic word hats covering beginner to advanced topics
BeginnerLevel Questions
1 What exactly is a word hat
A word hat is a type of headpiece designed by Philip Treacy that features a word or phrase written across the front usually in bold decorative lettering Its a sculptural piece of fashion art that uses language as its main visual element
2 Who is Philip Treacy
He is a famous Irish milliner known for creating elaborate surreal and highly artistic hats for royalty celebrities and highfashion runways
3 Why did he start making hats with words on them
He wanted to make a statement that was immediate and personal The words act as a direct message from the wearer turning the hat into a conversation starter and a piece of wearable poetry
4 What kind of words does he use
He uses a mix of things single powerful words names of people or places abstract concepts and sometimes humorous or ironic phrases
5 Are these hats just for celebrities
No While they are famous on runways the concept has been adapted for everyday fashion You can find simpler more affordable versions inspired by his work or you can commission a custom piece
IntermediateLevel Questions
6 What materials does he use to make the letters
He often uses lightweight materials like sinamay felt feathers horsehair or sculpted fabric The letters are usually handcut and sewn or wired onto the base of the hat
7 Are the hats comfortable to wear
Yes despite their size Treacy is known for engineering his hats to be surprisingly lightweight and wellbalanced They are designed to stay on the head without causing strain
8 What is the most famous word hat he has made
One of the most famous is the Faith hat worn by model Naomi Campbell Another is the Love hat and the sculptural Philip Treacy name hat worn by Lady Gaga
9 How do you style a word hat
Keep the rest of your outfit simple The hat is the statement Wear it with a monochrome outfit or a