Did anyone steal the show at the Met Gala quite like Thom Browne? The designer outfitted 21 guests in unique looks—including Demi Moore, Zoe Saldana, Lorde, Janelle Monae, and Nicki Minaj. “It felt like presenting a mini couture collection,” Browne remarked a few days after the event during our Zoom call about his pre-fall line, which represents the more wearable side of his brand.

While his February fall collection will hit stores (including new locations in Palm Beach and Los Angeles) after this one, the pre-fall line highlights the everyday appeal of Browne’s designs. At the Met, Moore wore a striking gown shaped like a men’s striped necktie, its loop framing her face dramatically. Here, the emphasis is on sharp tailoring and playful proportions across a variety of fabrics—less avant-garde, more timeless. “The key is showing how the collection and the business are evolving without losing what people love about my work,” he explained.

Take the mesh basketball jerseys, for example—embroidered with the number 65 for Browne’s birth year, 1965, but crafted from cashmere. “Tailoring can feel like sportswear, and sportswear can feel like tailoring,” he added. While he’s dressed plenty of basketball players, this collection nods to tennis and golf, with deck shoes and duck boots making an appearance. Expanding accessories is part of his growth strategy, including relaxed styles like the distressed leather Mr. and Mrs. Thom bags.

That’s not to say Browne has softened his signature precision. Loyal fans will still find themselves in this collection. But pieces like a suede “jean jacket” and a mohair tweed work shirt introduce a new ease that might just draw fresh admirers into his refined world.