Unless you’ve been living completely offline, you’ve probably noticed that Labubu mania has reached new heights. These fang-toothed creatures are everywhere—you can’t walk through a major city without spotting them dangling from someone’s bag.

I adore her. Despite her gender-neutral look and universal appeal, Labubu is a girl. Created by Hong Kong artist Kasing Lung in 2015 as part of The Monsters story series, she later became a collectible toy in 2019 through a collaboration with Pop Mart. Soon after, Labubu keychain plushies arrived—perfectly timed to ride the wave of bag charms and playful accessories. Pop Mart’s first keyring series, Exciting Macaron, launched in October 2023.

With her pastel fur and mischievous grin, Labubu strikes the ideal balance between cute and slightly creepy. She joins a long line of beloved Asian characters like Hello Kitty, Sonny Angel, and Gudetama. Pop Mart’s Cry Baby series seems to be following her lead. Celebrities like Rihanna, Dua Lipa, and Blackpink’s Lisa (who gushed about her obsession to Vanity Fair) have all been spotted with Labubu, fueling her global takeover.

But as with anything that gets too popular, backlash has started. In the UK, Pop Mart had to pull Labubu from stores after a violent scuffle broke out among resellers in May 2025. Fans were furious—after all, Labubu is the top collectible on StockX.

Some people don’t get the hype. Why are adults lining up for toys? Critics call Labubu wasteful, a “recession indicator,” or part of the “regression core” trend. They argue that the frenzy around these toys feeds into mindless consumerism. As British Vogue’s Daniel Rodgers put it: “Labubu is just another flashy internet trend—something we’ll forget in a few months when the next big thing comes along.”

Yet for fans worldwide, Labubu is more than a keychain—it’s a lifestyle. To me, she feels like a modern take on Where the Wild Things Are, a childhood favorite. Pop Mart adds excitement by selling Labubu in blind boxes, so you never know which version you’ll get. TikTok is full of unboxing videos, and after trying one myself, I understood the thrill. I only own one Labubu, but I admire the dedication of superfans who collect them all.

Now, amid the backlash, Labubu lovers share their stories with Vogue, along with proud photos of their blind-box treasures.

Freddie Powell, gallerist at Ginny on Frederick
Photography by Lewis Teague Wright
I quit vaping (thank god) and replaced it with a tiny Pop Mart addiction. I’m still not sure which is healthier, cheaper, or less embarrassing. My collecting began last September in Seoul while organizing a Ginny on Frederick exhibition, The Vampire Problem?, at N/A. I was—I’m still amazed by the intricate details of those small vinyl Crybaby figures—I collected every single one. The Labubu craze completely took over—it’s campy, silly, and pure joy to own and interact with.

Ruby Redstone, writer and fashion historian
Photography by Gabriel Sommer

I know toy-collecting obsessions well. I grew up during the golden era of Ugly Dolls, Tokidoki, and Kidrobot. The toys I collected as a teen reflected my inner turmoil—equal parts cute and unsettling, desirable yet lonely. These little creatures, pulled randomly from blind boxes, felt like kindred spirits. And who better embodies modern contradictions than Labubu? A mischievous girl (yes, a girl!) with a growing online presence.

I adore the trend of adults attaching toys to their bags—even when it’s not the chicest look. There’s something heartwarming about seeing people on the subway with their little comfort plushies on display, ready to brighten a bad day.

As a fashion historian, I don’t buy into simplistic theories like “when the market crashes, hemlines rise.” But it’s hard to ignore how political chaos fuels our craving for cute trinkets. After a rough week, I’ll think, Screw it, I’m going to Popmart. Sure, there’s plenty of talk about dopamine and depression, but buying a tiny monster keychain isn’t the worst coping mechanism—it might even be a net positive. Toy collecting introduced me to artists like Takashi Murakami and Yoshitomo Nara, making art accessible in a way galleries often don’t.

I love Labubu because I have kids. A toy on your bag is instant entertainment—though I won’t let them near my favorite Labubu (ketchup stains, no thanks). It’s also a sweet reminder that they don’t have to outgrow their stuffed animals. If something sparks joy, why let it go? I never did.

Alex Kessler, deputy editor at i-D
Photography by Alex Kessler

There’s something hilariously unhinged about falling into a plush-toy obsession while emotionally regressing at my mom’s house in Chiang Mai—jet-lagged, spiritually drained, and one herbal compress away from a meltdown. Then I met Labubu. Something in me cracked—and instantly healed. One blind box in, and I was no longer a man. I was mother, cradling a deranged little goblin like a Victorian widow at a séance. That rush of peeling open the foil? Pure serotonin roulette. A friend called it gambling, but worse—this is gambling with lore. I left Thailand not with peace, but with eight Labubus (and CryBabys) for myself and seven more for desperate friends and fashion editors back in London. Dangerous? Maybe. Satisfying? Let’s just say I haven’t felt this spiritually released since microdosing at the Dover Street Market sale.

Song-I Saba, fashion copywriter
Photography by Song-I Saba

Blind boxes are the perfect gift for an indecisive, emotionally stunted generation. My boyfriend got me a Labubu from a reseller in Warsaw, and my friend Jonny gifted me a Twinkle Twinkle for my 33rd birthday. Now they’re sentimental keepsakes.The future is uncertain, so we bet on cuteness—Labubu has become the collectible gamble of late capitalism.

By Tianwei Zhang, London/China market editor at Women’s Wear Daily
Photography by Tianwei Zhang

I never expected to become obsessed with Labubu. I was aware of it—I even saw Thailand’s Princess Sirivannavari carrying one at a Hermès show—but I wasn’t drawn into the whole Popmart/Monsters craze until I started researching a story late last year. After talking to early adopters like Bryanboy and Harry Lambert, I realized how easy it was to find them in London before the hype took off. So I started collecting.

I began with the plush toys—both standard and secret editions—then moved on to regional exclusives like the Thai and Singapore versions (the latter often called “Merbubu”). Just this week, I managed to get my hands on what I call “Duckbubu,” the newest plush, only available in China through Popmart point redemption.

I also collect Labubu figurines. My first was the Labubu Sketch 400%, and later, a friend in Hong Kong helped me snag a ComplexCon exclusive. Earlier this year, I was lucky enough to meet Labubu’s creator, Kasing Lung, at Dover Street Market, where he signed a plush and a DSM-exclusive black-and-pink figurine for me during a meet-and-greet.

To me, Labubu is the perfect mix of cuteness, mischief, and consumerism, with just the right touch of exclusivity—something a longtime fashion addict like me can’t resist.